Wednesday, January 29, 2014

Notes from the city’s wetland

Notes from the city’s wetland

Akila Kannadasan

  • Black-winged stilts Photo: Chandrashekar Sundaram
    Special Arrangement Black-winged stilts Photo: Chandrashekar Sundaram
  • Marsh Harrier Photo: Chandrashekar Sundaram
    Special Arrangement Marsh Harrier Photo: Chandrashekar Sundaram
  • Ruddy Shelducks Photo: Chandrashekar Sundaram
    Special Arrangement Ruddy Shelducks Photo: Chandrashekar Sundaram
  • Common Teals Photo: Chandrashekar Sundaram
    Special Arrangement Common Teals Photo: Chandrashekar Sundaram
  • Asian Waterbird Census in progress
    The Hindu Asian Waterbird Census in progress

For, one has to count them with diligence; one can’t afford to stop midway, distracted by a playful flock of ducks or by a lonely pair of black-winged stilts happy in each others’ company. However, as K. Gnanaskandan of Madras Naturalists’ Society and his team keep count of the birds on the Western side of the Pallikaranai marsh, she is glad to be distracted many times over…
Distraction 1
The black-and-white blanket with a pink border
The flock of black-winged stilts — Gnanaskandan counts almost 3,000 — stretches like a blanket on the water. Flaunting delicate pink feet, needle-sharp bills, deep black eyes, and white body with black wings, they dip their heads neck-deep into the water. Dip-lift-pause, dip-lift-pause… the pattern recurs with the exact timing. We cannot see the tiny aquatic creatures clamped in between their bills when they lift their heads. The action, hence, looks like a group dance movement performed with practised perfection.
Distraction 2
There she comes, run for your life!
They might seem at peace with the world, happy wading away in their stretch of water, their home for the winter. But these stilts are in a constant state of panic. For, danger could strike any moment, and they would be feasted upon by the sharp-beaked marsh harrier. The flock is being watched by a female, her sharp eyes widen at the sight of her kill. She is a beauty; her wide wings whoosh as she swoops down into the flock, eager to take one to feed herself and perhaps her young one too. The very sign of her sends the stilts on a frenzy. They fly from the water in unison. It is a flight / sight to behold. For, nothing is more beautiful than a thousand stilts flapping their wings against the wind.
Distraction 3
The lonely bunch of flamingos
We count some 10 greater flamingos, far from the chattering stilts. They prefer to keep off the smaller waders. Gnanaskandan explains that their feeding habits are different. The birds’ preferred food is algae while the waders feed on small aquatic creatures such as frogs and tadpoles.
Distraction 4
Is that a ruddy shelduck?
For once, the serious Gnanaskandan gets excited. “Yes! It’s the ruddy shelduck,” he exclaims, lifting his head from the spotting scope. It is a rare sighting, and the rest of the birders is as excited. There are five of them, amidst the stilts and the common teals. They look gorgeous — the fact that there are only five makes them even more special. The ducks are a brownish-orange with cream-coloured heads and jet-black bills.
Distraction 5
More special birds
The birders jump again as they catch something on the spotting scope — it’s the peregrine falcon, the fastest bird in the world. He / she sits too far for us to see the sharp features. Gnanaskandan also shows us an osprey through the scope. This one too is quite far. We can see them, but not clearly enough. This is my ‘lifer’ — a term birders use to describe their first sighting of a bird.
Distraction 6
Their sheer diversity is the biggest distraction of them all — grey-headed lapwings, pied avocets, marsh sandpipers, Northern shovellers, black-tailed godwits, spoonbills… The way they peck at their food, their delicate feet, their fights, their politics… how does one concentrate?
GROUND REALITY
According to south-asia.wetlands.org, “Every January, thousands of volunteers across Asia and Australasia visit wetlands in their country and count waterbirds. This event is called the Asian Waterbird Census (AWC), which is part of a global waterbird monitoring programme, the International Waterbird Census.”
The Madras Naturalists’ Society is the State coordinator of the programme. So far, 16 wetlands have been covered in the city. The data collected is used to study bird population trends, using which Important Bird Areas — globally recognised bird habitats, can be identified. Volunteers also record the threats posed to wetland birds, which can help Wetland International speak to governments for actions to rectify them, explains Gnanaskandan. The census is being carried out in places such as Coimbatore, Madurai, Theni and Erode. In Chennai, the counting began in the first week of January. Significant observations include the presence of fewer ducks in “Chembarambakkam and Sriperumbudur lakes, since the water level was low — a result of failed monsoon”. 

Sunday, January 26, 2014

A reminder of the Mongol presence in Dadu

Beijing Day 4.

On my way to Beihai park, following the instructions in the guide book about taking subway line 4 tp Pinganli station and then walking down Di'anmen West street to find the Behai park.

I leave the central business districts of Beijing and emerge onto a more Chinese street, cross Jiaochang Hutong and see a more relaxed pace of life.



Why was I on this excursion?  The words "Kublai Khan" had attracted my attention.  I was off to seek and find the only remnant of the Mongol's presence in Dadu, as ancient Beijing was called.

And the remnant was located in this park to the west of the Forbidden City.

I bought my ten yuan ticket and walked in through this little tunnel, and there it was in front of my eyes!

But the size and beauty of the park just blew me away.

Why oh why can we not have spaces like these in our cities?

Beautiful water bodies, lovely old trees and pavillions for us to sit and enjoy the views.

Turns out that Beihai is one of the oldest, largest and best-preserved parks in the city.
The white dagoba in the centre of that island was my supposed destination


These were imperial gardens that traced their origins back to 938 AD and the Liao dynasty.  They were opened up to the public only in 1925, remaining  as royal gardens  with every successive dynasty in between.

Something about water and mountains bringing luck led to the formation of these large lakes and the "mountain" islands in between.

So, in the middle of the large lake above is the Jade Flowery Islet which housed KK's Guanguan Palace.  KK received non other than Marco Polo there.  During his reign, the park became larger, and the city was called Dadu.  So this was the place he met his foreign dignitaries, hosted banquets, and carried out his emperor duties I suppose, and so the Marco Polo connection.

The Palace collapsed at some point, and in 1651 Shun Zhi built the white dagoba, which was what I came to see, thinking it was from KK's time. 

But I never did get to the island or that dagoba - I could not find a way in!!  My friends and family will quite understand my problem.  First I am easily distracted and secondly I have no sense of direction, so staying unlost itself is a miracle, leave alone finding my way on a map.

So as I got distracted I cam across all these other fascinating sights!
One of the several pavillions. This one was the entrance to the Heavenly King Hall


The protective "kings" looking fierce.

The DaCi Zhenru Hall made entirely of wood was beautiful.  I loved the unpainted appearance.This is from the M



The famous Nine dragons screen.  Was home to a huge colony of sparrows.  From the Qing dynasty, 1756.  Nine large dragons but a multitude of small dragons all over.

The screen has some 400+ tiles with seven colour screen printin that still hold their colour after all these years.  Quite amazing isnt it?  The Chinese also hold the number 9 in high regard.
As I walked along the lakefront, I came across the Five Dragon pavillions, where supposedly the royal family sat and "ate the air" so to speak

Beautiful spaces where the locals now come to chat, sing and bond.  Interestingly, they love to break into danec as well.
The Temple of Supreme Happiness. This was surrounded by little water tanks on all sides, ans was built by Emperor Qianlong for the eternal happiness of his mother. 

Within, Mount Sumeru, with the Bodhisattva and the 800 arhats.

The details of the roof


This stone stele was also built by emperor Qianlong and had inscriptions in Manchu, Tibetan, Mongolian and Chinese on its four sides.
It was half past twelve by now, and I had to be back by 2, and still I had not discovered the entrance to the White Dagoba island!
The White Dagoba.  Different from a pagoda in shape. 

So, I bade farewell to KK and hurried back.

So often, you go looking for something and find something else.  I ahd time to explore only the northern shore of the lake, but still it was a treat.

It was a beautiful morning, with lovely weather and somehwat clear skies (which is a huge thing for Beijing it seems), and what a lovely day to be in the park.

What a beautiful idea.  Calligraphy artists practise their work, with brushes dripped in water!


I left catching the train back to Gaumao from Beihai North.  Seemed a better way than the double change at Pinganli.

That afternoon, we went to the Summer Palace and found more beautiful royal gardens, now open to everyone, and serving as lovely places to spend time in the outdoors.

Tuesday, January 14, 2014

Chilika registers sharp drop in winged visitors


Staff Reporter

Two-day census enumerates a total 7,19,262 birds

Fears of adverse impact of Phailin, the severe cyclonic storm that hit Odisha coast in October 2013, have come true.
Chilika witnessed a sharp drop in the population of migratory birds, a large congregation of which adds to the scenic beauty of the lagoon.
During the two-day bird census that ended on Sunday, a total of 7,19,262 birds were enumerated in the Chilika. Of them, 7,07,584 were detected to be migratory birds and 11,678 resident birds.
Last year, 8,77,322 birds were found in Chilika, Asia’s largest brackish lake.
Forest officials, researchers, bird watchers, villagers, and members of NGOs were divided into 20 groups and spread all over the Chilika lagoon. They were equipped with binoculars, GPS, and rangefinders. In all, 80 enumerators entered the lagoon area in country boats.
Researchers came across birds in the Nalabana Sanctuary, Mangalajodi, Sundarpur, Bhushandpur, and Tangi areas. Birds were found perching on long grasses. A total of158 bird species, 59 of them resident, were detected. Eurasian Wigeon and Pintails were leading species. Also found were Bar-headed Goose, Greylag Goose, and Flamingoes. However, there was a drop in number of waders.
A surprise
This year’s bird census threw up a surprising result. Nalabana Bird Sanctuary registered a growth of 20 per cent in migratory bird population compared to that of last year. Around 4,15,135 birds were sighted.
Migratory birds had arrived this winter late primarily due to the impact of Phailin.
The severe cyclonic storm had upset the wind direction and the eco-system. As a result, migratory birds arrived the Chilika lagoon late.
Worst was feared in Nalabana, which usually gets submerged during the monsoon season. When winter sets in, the water level falls and mudflat is exposed.
Birds migrate from as far as the Caspian Sea, Baikal Lake, and remote parts of Russia, Mongolia, and Siberia, and flock to the island. Vast mudflat provides them adequate feed. Due to heavy rainfall that followed Phailin, mudflat remained submerged for a long time. During the last one month, birds in large number flocked to Nalabana.

  • Out of the total, 7,07,584 are migratory birds and 11,678 resident birds
  • Eurasian Wigeon and Pintails are found to be leading species

  • Two-day census enumerates a total 7,19,262 birds
    Printable version | Jan 14, 2014 3:28:45 PM | http://www.thehindu.com/todays-paper/tp-national/chilika-registers-sharp-drop-in-winged-visitors/article5575972.ece

    Sunday, January 12, 2014

    Chilika

    The Kali temple ferry point.  The temple is very popular in the region, and we were lucky to leave before Makar Sankranthi, when lakhs descend, taking a bat to the little island where the temple is situated

    http://articles.timesofindia.indiatimes.com/2013-01-22/bhubaneswar/36483690_1_irrawaddy-dolphins-chilika-development-authority-cda-ajit-patnaik

    The ten Irrawaddy dolphins which bobbed in and out serenely in the calm morning waters were the highlight
    for me on our morning outing on the lagoon.

    Northern pintails by the hundreds, cormorants, gulls and terns all in a motor boat powered by lpg.

    Thursday, January 9, 2014

    Three lakh birds arrive at Chilika Lake, and we are off to see them!

    Three lakh birds arrive at Chilika Lake - The Times of India


    Three lakh birds arrive at Chilika Lake

    Three lakh birds arrive at Chilika Lake
    At least 156 species of winged guests have been spotted on the lake this winter and of them 52 were local birds.
    BHUBANESWAR: Nearly three lakh winter migratory and resident birds have arrived at Chilika Lake, Asia's largest brackish water lagoon situated in Odisha, since the middle of October, a state wildlife official said on Saturday.

    At least 130,000 birds were sighted at Nalaban Island while 1.5 lakh birds were spotted outside the protected area of the lake, the official told IANS.

    Most of the birds are migratory birds and have come from places as far as the Caspian Sea, Lake Baikal, Aral Sea, Russia, Mongolia, central and southeast Asia, Ladakh and the Himalayas, he said.

    At least 156 species of winged guests have been spotted on the lake this winter and of them 52 were local birds. The birds which were sighted include WigeonGodwitShovellerPintail and Tufted Pochard, the official said.

    The 1,000 sq km lake, about 100km from state capital Bhubaneswar, is spread over the districts of Puri, Khordha and Ganjam along the eastern coast and is home to some of the largest congregations of migratory birds in the country.

    Every year, about a million migratory birds come to the lake in October and return in March. An estimated 165 species of birds are found in the lake during winter. Of these, 93 species are migratory and 72 residential.

    This year, patrolling has been intensified at the lake and awareness has been created in villages around the lake on bird conservation. "We have already set up 17 camps in villages near the lake to protect the birds from being hunted", the official said.

    A January 1st filled with bird song and children's laughter

    During our Rishi Valley term visit
    At the guest house.

    In the senior school, a pair of Collared Scops Owl have taken residence.  One of them looked down at me with amusement (I thought) as I tried not to look nervous at the thought of meeting my son's teachers!!

    The sugarcane was flowering, and the bulbuls were delighted.

    The Baya weavers were gearing up for the nesting season

    The cloud cover kept us warm
    The parakeets were not discrete
    The munias were such a treat.

    The oriole lurked among the branches
    As did the coucal, making no advances.

    Why does birdsong always fill my heart?
    Or was it the the sight of our son, so long apart?





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