The Amazing Valley

The trek described here.

I cannot believe almost a month has gone by since that day!

July 25th, Day 5 - From Ghangria into the Valley of Flowers.

Everyone says "only 3 kms", but some 3 kms it was!  The walk into the Valley of Flowers from Ghangaria, while not in the league of our previous day's walk, was definitely not a stroll in the park!

But every moment was beeeyoutiful!!  No mule dung, very few people, mist, rushing water, imposing stonefaces, a mind boggling collection of flowers, and of course the company of eleven wonderful people, actually twelve including Rajneesh our guide for the day.

Rajneesh knows the Japanese names for all the flowers, (the Jap tourists come in droves), and soon my head was reeling with Liguleria, Rhubarb, Selinum, Anemone, poisonous, medicinal, weed....

That was where we were headed

To reach the path to the Valley, one has to go through Ghangaria town, which let me tell you is no fun.

The path through town is completely uphill (at 60 degrees according to me!), replete with mules and their dung.  The rains had converted everything into a brown slush, and horse flies were having a field day!!

The path levels off through the town, which has a gurudwara, a few lodges, some restaurants and a few souvenir shops.

You cross through the town, then the cement path ascends steeply, and there's a culvert over a rushing river.  I think the Lakshman Ganga river is met by the Pushpavathi river here.  The Pushapavati river comes gushing down the valley of flowers.

There is a fork then, the left one on to the Valley and the straight one through to Hemkund.

Wild asters distracted me, even before we reached the park gates!

Not great English, but well said DFO!

We entered the gates of the Valley sanctuary and immediately the whole ambience changed for me.  No mules, so hurray! It just became cleaner, greener, quieter, and there were flowers everywhere!!

We were joined by our guide Rajneesh and another Indian family from somewhere or the other.  They had a little girl who was being carried by the porter in one those baskets they sling on their backs.  She was a chirpy little thing and walked and rode in her basket alternatively!

This was the path in the beginning, lush trees on either side and all sorts of exotic flowers.

  We dawdled, took photos and delayed our progress to the Valley!

This glacier could be crossed las month.  You can see the walking path pressed out on the ice.  The summer remperatures had caused the centre to melt and crack, and so we had to go further up in order to cross over to the other side.

So we crossed here.  Where the water was flowing, but the flow was slow enough so that we could cross it.  Abhimanyu can be seen on the other side waiting for us, as we crossed with the help of Prem.  When we returned, the water levels were much higher, and this was the reason that Abhimanyu did not want to delay our return from the Valley.

A toadstool garden!  The area is so moist and green and amazing!

Large conifers, mist, crisp air, good company.  I was in paradise on earth.

The famous blue poppies

We were not yet in the Valley proper, but it was already heaven on earth.  I can't describe the joy in my heart that day.

Wherever I looked, the sights were amazing.  I could not get enough of the flowers, the green leaves, the dew drops on petals, the calls of the laughing thrush and rose finches, the moss on tree trunks, the rushing river water, that huge and silent mountain face.

And yet lurking under this scenic peacefulness was the raw forces of nature.  One cloud burst was all it would have taken to make this absolutely idyllic day of mine very nasty.

It is this reality that keeps people like Abhimanyu respectful and cautious of nature, urging us to take care, not displaying bravado.

One false step in some of those places and any one of us could have been in trouble from a sprained ankle to much much worse.

But that day was ours, and despite the drizzle that came down once we reached the Valley, it was all that we could ask for.

The Pushpavati, as we crossed it.  This time, on a proper bridge!

All along until we reached the Valley we saw this rock face, in and out of the mist and clouds, on the other side of the river.

A view of the path.  Still not yet there!

At the base of the rock face was this beautiful meadow, with remnants of the frozen river.  The meadow had a hint of yellow, and probably would be a riot of yellow a fortnight later.

You can see the path on the left, winding into the distance.  The rocks in the foreground are part of a rockfall that seemed quite recent.

Around the bend and we reached this point, the last crossing over this asbestos sheet and into the Valley!! 

Blue Himalayan balsam everwhere! The stony path, on which you are expected to stay, is on the right.

The "rock" under which we had our aloo parathas for lunch.  This seems to be a standard resting point for visitors.  Met another group from Mumbai, and some assorted foreigners.  That's all the visitors to the valley there were.  Abhimanyu said that many visitors return from here, becaue by the time they reach here, it's time to head back.  We had a ittle more time to push on.

Selinum in the foreground, another common flower

Everyone went crazy with their cameras!  Thanks to digital technology!! And we discovered Rajneesh's phtography skills as well!

The mist rolled in and out!

How many varieties can you spot?  No close-ups in this post.  The flowers need another post!

We got as far as this, and then had to head back, after seeing the lady's slipper orchid, rhododendron bushes and the cobra lily.  Those pics next time.

We seriously considered holing out under the rock and spending the night there!!  

The drizzle started as we headed back, and this was my last picture as we headed back, and I put the camera away, resolutely.

On our return, the mist and drizzle reduced visibility, and some people who had still not made it into the valley, were turning back.  Can you imagine coming all the way, and not getting even a glimpse of the magical Valley?

See the complete set of flowers here


My day in Ghangaria

The trek!

Continued from here

July 24th. Day 4

I woke up with huge relief!!  No visits to the loo last night, yay!!  Thank you Shreelatha, thank you allopathy!  I felt I could do the walk.

Looked out of the window, it was a drizzly, dull day.  Pilgrims had already began their walk.

7am:   A quick breakfast (I had not got an appetite, and was also too excited to eat much ), and we were all set.  Well all except Vattsala who had not had a good night, and said she would follow later.

I put on an old poncho type raincoat - it was what twenty years old - in order to keep myself and my backpack dry.

The others had gone down last evening to the Govindghat bazaar and picked up Rs 20 plastic poncho raincoats and those sticks for walking.

Bhagat Palace is on the upper road, and so we had to walk down into town, cross the river, before starting the walk.  With cheery good luck from Abhimanyu and a rousing Sat sri akal from Sonya, we set out in the steady drizzle.

As I reached the market, I knew something was wrong, I felt completely soaked and wet despite the rain poncho.  After all these years, the plastic had become porous!!

Thankfully, I discovered this when we were still in the market, and so I also picked up another plastic poncho.  And so it was that Gapi, Raji and me along with our trusted helper Prem fell behind within the first ten minutes of starting!

The start of the walk.  It was raining, and this picture I took on the way down

The first feeling of satisfaction!  Gapi mentioned, "See how much we have climbed!"  We could see Govindghat down in the distance.  So pleased and cheerful were we, little knowing what lay ahead!!

The first few kms, it is a steady climb, and I walked slowly, trying to keep my heart rate down, so that I did not need to take too many breaks.

The path is basically the pilgrim route to Hemkund, and so most of our fellow trekkers were Sikhs going to Hemkund. 

There are little villages and small shops all along the first half of the walk, and the views are breathtaking, and we dawdled, especially once the rain stopped, and we could take our cameras out.

By around 10am, we were past the village of Bhyundar, and we saw some cultivated fields too.

We all had to watch out for the mules and horses though.  They are a law unto themselves, moving in a well, mulish fashion, singlemindeldy, and never mind that you are in the way!

After getting a couple of knocks, (one of which almost knocked down my camera), I learnt to listen for the bells that jangled on them, and step out of the way with great alacrity!!

At certain points I felt like Capt Haddock in Tintin in Tibet where the monks keep telling him keep to the left as he goes tumbling down the mountain!  Everyone says, keep to the mountainside and let the mules pass.  But the mules also do not want to go to the edge and want the mountainside!!

So I figured out a way - search for a stone jutting out, and go seek refuge behind it!!

Govindghat is at 1,800m or so, and our destination was Ghangaria, which is at 3,000m.  And so, we have to generally keep climbing, and the walk is supposedly 14kms.

Given the state of my stomach, I did not taste any of the aloo parathas, maggi noodles, lime juice or even chai as I walked.  But I kept buying  lovely little local apples (Rs 10 each), especially the green ones.  They were juicy and thirst quenching and Shreelatha had mentioned that they are also good for the stomach.

But it was one of those rare days, when I did not miss the food!!  So wonderful was the feast for the eyes!

And so we walked and talked and laughed and huffed and puffed our way on. 

Groups of Sikhs would pass us either way with a cheery Wahe Guru!

Abhimnayu, our guide and "coach", had advised us not to sit down as the muscles will go cold and cramp, and I followed his advice literally.  I did not sit all through the walk, resting while standing with one leg up on a rock!!

There were these blue butterflies which teased me all along the lower bits of the trek.  Never sitting still, and refusing to let me get a picture! They were a visual treat, and somehow so mood uplifting.

Yellow Impatiens dotted the hillsides, and our flower quest had begun!

These purples were higher up on the hillside, and I don't know what they are.  I wonder if Vidya, our group's plant expert knows.

The wonders along the way

A Common Sailer suns itself.  After about 2,800 m, there were no butterflies!

Vidya said this was a wild orchid, very excitedly!

Polygnum flowers

At about 11.30, we were down by the Lakshman Ganga.

There were parts of the river where some of the stone bed was exposed, and several of the younger pilgrims were standing there and taking photos.  I thought this was a rather dangerous activity - what if there was a flash flood?

The river gurgled in some places and roared in others, as it made its way downhill.

A white-capped water redstart hopped along, among the stones, taking off with great speed now and then.  Raji and I spotted it, and watched its aerial acrobatics for a while.  I did not know what it was until I returned, checked this picture and my bird book!

You cannot tire of the views.  Click on any of the pictures and enjoy them full size.

The rains had rendered everything so green

and we walked on....2pm and where was the end?!  We learnt later that Sonya had arrived at base camp Ghangria by 1pm!!  And here we were, some 4 sttep kms away still!!

As we climbed, the river raged more fiercely, the pathe got more treacherous, and of course I got more tired.

I had removed my raincoat when the rains had stopped, but now the rains threatened again, it was misty and cold.

And it was here that I think I made a mistake.  I bought another raincoat - (since the first one tore - and then, before putting it on, put my waist purse, which had my camera and binocs, into the backpack.  And wore the raincoat on top of that.

So, I had no access to my water, any snack, and my backpack was heavier, and I was tiring and I reached the dreaded last 2 kms.  (My friend Usha who had been earlier warned me about the last bit.)  By this time, Gapi was ahead, Raji was behind and we were all treading our lonely ways, so mcuh for our good cheer of a while ago.

I think Gapi (who had a fear for heights, which by the way has been all cured through this trip!!), had Abhimanyu for a while helping her up the path and Raji had Prem, as she was bringing up the rear!

And the river now was a torrent.

The last push!

These pictures were taken on our walk down actually, because on the way up, I had no camera - it was in my backpack - and I was tired, and the drizzle had recommenced!

But this is the views and the path over those last bits.  My good cheer had gone by now, I was wet, tired, and keeping my focus on the stones.  I relaised that one false, tired step, and I could at the very least twist an ankle, and at the worst go tumbling down those jagged stones.

The mules suddenly seemed to be everywhere and the caravans seemed ever so frequent, the smell of dung all-pervasive.

I kept up a rhythm, counting ten steps and another ten if possible, stopping for ten breaths and then moving on.  I tried not to stop for more than ten breaths.

I had no energy at this point to enjoy these views.  Also, it had misted over, and the visibility was down to some 100m.

On the way down, the legs were fresh and the sun was out, and I was exhilirated to see the craggy peaks and brilliant  blue skies.

At this point I decided that it was not wise to be alone and I waited so that Raji was within viewing distance.  I gave away my backpack to Prem, to make myself lighter, and that really helped.  The pictures below are the last km or so before we reach Ghangaria.

4 pm - And then suddenly, there was a level path.......

...and tents, I almost cried with joy!!  I stood, soaking in the view, catching my breath and waiting for Raji to join me.  We were so relieved that we had made it!!

But which ones were ours?  Abhminayu had said, "Head for the white tents", but these were blue!

So we walked on with renewed vigour and then some multicoloured ones showed up......

and finally the Whites of camp Sarovar!!  All the others were sitting on chairs outside the tents and we two received a rousing welcome, like some heroes returning from battle - I certainly felt that way!!  We hobbled down into the camp, my tired thighs protesting at this last effort!

This is the view from Gapi's and my tent, looking back to the path. 

I went in to the tent, and there was a joyous reunion with Gapi as well!!  Abhimanyu meanwhile was moving around barking instructions to all of us - "Please change into dry clothes, wear your caps, please wear warm clothes. No baths please!"

All the others had already done so, and I followed suit, and felt so much better immediately.  Some hot tea and maggi noodles, and I was actually feeling quite alright once again!!

Pilgrims continued to come up the path, and I counted our blessings that we were at the edge of town!  Next morning when we set out for the Valley, I relaised that if we were living in town, we would have had to climb another like 100m, I'm sure!!

Many of the ladies had a "maalish" , and everyone was in good spirits, and to our add to our feelings of achievement was Abhimany stating that this was the fastest (even our 9 hours) than the other groups, and most of them had not walked the whole way in the past, resorting to mules halfway!!

Dinner by kerosene lanterns, war stories exchanged, and we were off to bed by 9 I think.  All through the evening I couldn't help thinking of and mentally thanking Shreelatha who set my stomach right, Usha, whose quick dry rain pants were a complete blessing, and ofcourse Sekar's sensible and calm advice to walk slow.

Hats off to Abhimanyu for keeping the spirits of the laggards up, and the wonderful group who walked in a  completely non-competitive fashion.  And of course Prem, our saviour at various points over the next few days.

Nine hours for 1,200 m (approx 4,000 ft) over 13 kms of stony  and uneven path  at 2000 m elevation for middle-aged me who is active and exercises regularly but not in any planned fashion.  Not bad given that I had a bad stomach, what say?

Coming down was no joke either...at the end of it, I felt my toes had fallen off (they hadn't thankfully!)

Next day, the Amazing Valley awaited!