Inside Nanmangalam Reserve Forest, Chennai’s lesser-known natural gems

Inside Nanmangalam Reserve Forest, Chennai’s lesser-known natural gem 



September 8, 2018 Seetha Gopalakrishnan



Around 40 different species of butterflies have been recorded within the limits of the Reserve Forest. The presence of abundant flowering trees laden with nectar support the population.



Chennai is home to not just one, but two reserve forests – the Pallikaranai wetland and the Nanmangalam scrub forest. Located along the Tambaram-Velachery Main Road, the Nanmangalam Reserve Forest is among the last remaining havens of the ‘Vandalur scrub’, the original natural forest of this landscape.



While it might be difficult to tie the seemingly disparate scrub and forest together, the Tropical Dry Evergreen Forests (as they are also known) with their short, small leaved trees and thorny shrubs indigenous to South-East India are best equipped to survive the local climatic conditions.



The scrub and its diversity



Spanning around 320 hectares, the patchy vegetation of the Nanmangalam Reserve Forest thrives across hillocks and plains. While the plain landscape is dominated by thorny shrubs, thickets and grasslands, the thicker and woodier vegetation is found mostly in the hillocks bordering the reserve.



A study conducted by city-based biodiversity conservation organisation Care Earth Trust revealed the presence of 442 different species of flowering plants inside the Nanmangalam Reserve Forest alone. “The species diversity in Nanmangalam is phenomenal; it is the highest compared to any other patch of forest within city limits. The forest is home to some rare species of plants which are not seen anywhere in the vicinity,” says plant ecologist Muthu Karthick from Care Earth Trust.



The forest is home to 100-125 species of birds in addition to 40 different species of butterflies and close to 20 species of damselflies and dragonflies. Forest birds being very shy tend to nest far away from human habitations. As a logical extension, many of the birds spotted here in Nanmangalam are rarely to be seen elsewhere in the city, making this space a bird-watchers’ delight.



The Reserve Forest’s most famous inhabitant and star attraction is the great horned owl. “A ravine which was once a quarry used in the past for cleaning heavy vehicles now provides protection for these nocturnal predators,” remarks J Subramanean from Care Earth Trust.



As a general rule, the landscape is typified by small to medium sized birds characteristic of drylands. “Insectivorous birds such as bee-eaters and babblers are common-sight here. Smaller nectivores such as the sunbirds and fruit-eaters including mynas and bulbuls frequent the scrublands,” adds Wildlife Biologist Vinoth Balasubramanian from Care Earth Trust. In addition, many waterbirds, local migrants from the wetlands in the vicinity, continue to move in and out of the reserve on a regular basis.



Reclaiming lost lands



In the early 1960s, extensive portions of these scrublands were opened up for mining which massively affected the region’s diversity and ecological balance. The Tamil Nadu Forest Department took control of the area in 1974; mining has been banned since.



Abandoned quarries now serve as receptacles of rainwater, frequented by wild animals and cattle. The severe water crunch of 2017 saw the Chennai Metro Water Supply and Sewerage Board (CMWSSB) identify the quarries in Nanmangalam as potential sources for augmenting the city’s water supply. The plan, however, failed to take off.



Interestingly, Nanmangalam is one among the 23 megalithic sites within the Chennai metropolitan area. Stone-age burial sites, called cairns, dating back to the Neolithic times are found within the limits of the reserve forest.



Attempts to restore and rejuvenate the landscape are being taken up in earnest by the forest department. Decentralised water conservation projects and afforestation initiatives have been designed with an intention to minimise the impact of quarrying on biodiversity and the overall quality of the forests.



Here are some snapshots from the green haven:



Spread across plains and hillocks, the Nanmangalam Reserve Forest is home to a diverse community of plants and animals.





Patches of forest land we see across the city such as the ones within the premises of the Theosophical Society and Guindy National Park as well as the chunk in Nanmangalam and Vandalur hills were once contiguous forests. Thanks to urbanisation, they now remain terribly fragmented.



Spread over 320 hectares, the Nanmangalam Reserve Forest is among the last few remaining tracts of the Vandalur scrub. In addition to the natural vegetation, the forest department has taken up afforestation projects where species of Terminalia, Bauhinia and Syzygium have been planted to augment tree cover.



Trees are characteristically short with thick, small leaves–an adaptation which enables them to survive better in the dry environment. Seen here is a species of Diospyros exhibiting all characteristics features of trees native to the landscape.



As it is with the flora, the birds and mammals seen here are small to medium sized, characteristic of drylands. The scaly-breasted munia along with sunbirds and swallows are seen throughout the year.



The white headed babblers, native to subtropical and tropical dry shrublands can be commonly sighted here. These birds are usually seen moving about in groups of seven, fetching them the common name ‘ Seven sisters’.



The attractive inflorescence of Memecylon, an evergreen shrub native to India abounds with nectar, serving as a very important stop for foraging bees and insects in the forest. Commonly found in the Deccan Plateau, its leaves and roots are known to have medicinal properties.



Succulents are common-sight in the area. Euphorbia of the Ancients or the antique spurge (seen here) along with prickly pear cactii and leaf-less Sarcostemma are among the many drought-tolerant plants seen in the Nanmangalam Reserve Forest.



In the early 1960s, large tracts of land in the city’s outskirts were leased out for quarrying rocks by the government. Ever since the Forest Department took over the area in the 1980s, quarrying has been banned. Depressions left behind as a result of quarrying serve as receptacles of rainwater during the monsoons.



Projects taken up under the Tamil Nadu Afforestation programme have ensured the increase of the diversity and density of plants within the reserve forest. Eucalyptus along with Acacia species have been raised by the Forest Department for rejuvenating the landscape.



Natural slopes and depressions have been identified by the Forest Department for harvesting rainwater. In addition to minimising soil erosion, these ponds also serve as watering holes for small mammals and birds in the forest.



A bird-watchers’ delight, the Nanmangalam Reserve Forest is among the lesser known natural gems of city. Many bird species that are no longer seen within the city can be spotted here in good numbers.

Access to the forest is restricted; permission from the District Forest Officer is a must for entering the property.



Chennaites have to thank their stars for being blessed with two reserved forests and a National Park within city limits. Along with the Guindy National Park and the Pallikaranai marsh, the Reserve Forest in Nanmangalam plays a very important role in enhancing the city’s livability and improving its green quotient.



[All photos have been shared with permission from Care Earth Trust, a Chennai-based biodiversity conservation organisation involved in studying the rich biodiversity of the Nanmangalam Reserve Forest.]

The post-monsoon green splendour of the Deccan plateau

28th August 2018

Raji and I are making our way to Aurangabad from Chennai.  Flew in to Mumbai, took a cab to Dadar Junction, where after lunch and some waiting, we boarded the Jan Shatabdi to Aurangabad.

We were armed  with books, music and crossword, but the views from the windows were so gorgeous, we stared open-mouthed for the most part.

On the Jan Shatabdi, after thane, the countryside was just absolutely gorgeous.

Washed, green, lush fields and streams and little waterfalls.

We went through narrow gorges, a  tunnel and a couple of bridges.

Rolling terrains, and not a soul.

Until we reached Nashik on the western edge of the plateau.

Then it was farms, vineyards and towns.  As dusk fell, we lost visibility, and then it was time to sleep and entertain ourselves.  The show outside had stopped, sadly.

Aurangabad station, the usual chaos, and trees full of roosting egrets.

Hibiscus watching

The Hibiscus

On the balcony

Joyously responds to the July rains.

The audacious architecture of the Louvre in Abu Dhabi

May 2018

It's the month of Ramzan in Abu Dhabi and the days in May in this desert metropolis are warm.  But we are from Madras, toughened by our summer and humidity, so nothing to complain about!

It is graduation time at NYUAD and we are here for Commencement, as they call it.  (Commencement of what, I wondered.)  Saadiyat is where NYUAD is located, and unlike most university neighourboods, Saadiyat is very tony, very upmarket and planned as an art and culture enclave, with the the Rafael Vinoly designed NYUAD campus the first occupants of the island, back in 2014!  With its high line, covered walkways, it is a pretty cool building in terms of design and architecture.

And I am pretty sure the head gardener is from Madras - Copper Pod, Neem, Bougainvillae and Nandivattal are in profusion as we walk through the common areas that have a much greener look than when we were at Marhaba four years ago. 

The red vented bulbuls and doves were present across the campus.

So the Neem flowers even in the desert!

And so we have the privilege of visiting the Louvre in Abu Dhabi.

The day turns out to be cloudy, and we see the dome and complex on our way in to Saadiyat island.   While the Louvre has opened, a Frank Gehry designed Guggenheim is also on the drawing board

Our first glimpse of Jean Nouvel's "floating dome", some 7,500 tonnes I had read!

The 8 layers of the dome create more than 7,000 "stars" of sunlight, filtering the desert sun.  All through the museum we would have glimpses of the water.

OK, so I did peek out of every window and was thoroughly distracted from the art treasures.  I am a sucker for water views.

And I have to say that for once my son showed remarkable patience with his malingering and wandering mother! 

There were windows like this one everywhere.  The architecture does make this museum experience quite different from any other and the outdoor spaces so beautifully include the waters of the bay on which AD is located.

The starry roof, in the day.  When the sun is strong, there will be sunbeams of lights making patterns on the floor - we missed that experience as it was a cloudy day.

This was my favourite view and space

The roof, within the rxhibit area of the museum.

Ai Weiwei's magnificent "chandelier" the Tower of Light, with the roof above

Two tons and almost 35,000 crystal make this art nstallation!

Its a great story in itself - inspired by a Communist Russian ideal Tatlin monument, "Ai’s sculpture reads this history from a Chinese context: Monument to the Third International in the guise of a crystal chandelier speaks of the gap between the Chinese Communist Party’s ideals and the elite’s taste for opulence in real life."

I Read all about it here:  The story behind Ai Weiwei's Fountain of Light at Louvre Abu Dhabi

Up-close

The Abu Dhabi skyline

Sunset views

I wondered whether we would visit AD again.  Maybe not.  But then again, who knows?

(More on the eclectic and somewhat quirky art and museum collections in a  later post, hopefully.)

The Banjh Oaks of Sitlakhet, Vivekananda and Siyahi Devi

June 2018

My Youreka summer.  Endless stories and memories.  

Plastic-free landscapes

Night skies, stars, children staring in awe

The persistent call of the Black-headed Jay

Rain.  Hailstones thundering on the roof

Monkeys on the move

Mighty Trishul and Nanda Devi

Plums, pears, apricots, apples

And the oak groves.

The private estates were kept green and wooded with these Himalayan Oaks.  

Quercus leucotrichophora - the trees, their moist trunks and their canopies -
were at the centre of a whole ecosystem.

All around, any direction, would take you through these oak groves.  Sometimes so silent, I would almost instinctively still my breath and tread softy.

And sometimes, there would be a cacophony - the Jays calling overhead, the tits,
oriental white eyes, minivets in mixed hunting parties, darting from tree to tree.  Tree creepers
and nut hatches would be busy zipping up and down the trunks.

The paths were undisturbed carpets of oak leaves, with their characteristic serrated edges.

Looking up and the undersides of the leaves would be almost white, the reason this is also referred to as White Himalayan oak.  When the breeze blows across the valley, the trees would alternately appear dark green and white, rather pretty.
And, yes, there they were, those acorns that I had read about, the one that the Ice Age squirrel froze for!

And there they were on the ground as well, waiting to keep the grove replenished. Mighty oaks from little acorns grow.  indeed.

The Banjh or white oak, is abundant all through the hills of Uttarakhand at the lower levels, and is important for humans too.  Its one of those trees that will withstand lopping, and branches are constantly cut for fodder, fuel and for timber it appears.  The only problem this seems to create is the removal of too many acorns to allow for natural dispersion and regeneration.  As a result, these groves are now under stress, (sigh!), we take away more quickly and heavily than the grove can withstand.

It seems to be that the Chir Pines are outgrowing the Oaks in Uttarakhand, and this does cause a problem for species that are dependent upon oak.  From what I have read, the beautiful rufous-bellied niltava, which I saw on my first walk in the groves, is one such as is the white-throated laughing thrush, which I would hear noisily turning over the oak leaf litter, as it looked for grubs and insects.

Here is An annotated checklist of the birds of banj oak–chir pine forests in Kumaon, Uttarakhand

Climbing up the hill to the top of the ridge, I arrive at a "T" point.  I would come across the odd local, smiling and hurrying along as I sweated and made heavy weather of the steep slope.  Reaching the T point was a relief, because from then on it was a relative walk in the park, with stone walls separating farms and views down to the valleys below.  The hillside was stony here, and quite often I saw circling raptors above - once it was a magnificent Black Eagle that lazily circled, and I could see the tips of its wing feathers working like rudders, as it glided on the thermals.  Another day two crested serpent eagles circled and called, as a Great Barbet hurried by, and the farm dog barked at my intrusion.

I would stand and gaze down into the valley with a tinge of sadness.  Down below, the hills were completely deforested.
I mused on the sustainability of this development.  

Right through my stay, I did not get a clear view, and everyone around blamed the forest fires for this.  Some 2,000 hectares burned this summer, according to the government itself, so I wonder how much really was under fire, causing this level of murkiness.  

I learnt that the Forest Survey of India FSI has satellite information which now allows almost real-time alerts on forest fires.  And its up to the state governments to make use of this system I guess.

I digress.

I am walking up to the Siyahi Devi temple, the route all the way lined with the oak trees, and a good place to spot woodpeckers and Russet Sparrows;  

The path takes me to the village, with the primary school at one end, and the temple at the other.

The Siyahi Devi hamlet, dominated by the mobile phone tower, as a result of which everyone enjoyed 4G!

Looking down from the ridge - the haze is evident.

The mule train taking goods up and down.

The Primary School was in session and little toddlers were trickling in.

Farmlands

I did not get much of a background or history about the temple, but there seems to be one about the Devi and an eagle that is elaborated upon, in the Talking Myths website.  

And no, she is not the Goddess of Ink, but rather the Royal Goddess!
I loved the fact that one could wander around the temple, right into the sanctum,
 without being stopped by any purohit.

Devotees offer bells when their wishes are fulfilled.

At the north-western end of the temple is another gate, overlooking the Almora valley, and from where one can visit the Vivekananda caves and protected groves.  

Just beyond the temple gate.  In the background is the town of Almora in the valley below,  And the little red Shinto-like gate is the entry/exit into the beautiful wooded oak grove.

Small mandirs dot the protected grove

The sun was going down and the light through the trees was magical and ethereal.

This is what Vivekananda had to say about the Kumaon Himalayas:

"This is the land of dreams of our forefathers, in which was born Pârvati, the Mother of India. This is the holy land where every ardent soul in India wants to come at the end of its life, and to close the last chapter of its mortal career.
This is the land which, since my very childhood, I have been dreaming of passing my life in, and as all of you are aware, I have attempted again and again to live here; and although the time was not ripe, and I had work to do and was whirled outside of this holy place, yet it is the hope of my life to end my days somewhere in this Father of Mountains where Rishis lived, where philosophy was born … I sincerely pray and hope, and almost believe, that my last days will be spent here, of all places on earth. Inhabitants of this holy land, accept my gratitude for the kind praise that has fallen from you for my little work in the West….
As peak after peak of this Father of Mountains began to appear before my sight, all the propensities to work, that ferment that had been going on in my brain for years, seemed to quiet down, and instead of talking about what had been done and what was going to be done, the mind reverted to that one theme the Himalayas always teach us, that one theme which reverberates in the very atmosphere of the place — renunciation! The Himalayas stand for that renunciation.” (Extract  from: The Complete Works of Swami Vivekananda/Volume 3/Lectures from Colombo to Almora ). 

It was a special place, that grove beyond the gates, and I hope I can visit again, to hear the wind whistling through the pines, the dry call of the black headed magpie, the crunch of the oak leaves under my feet.

More than anything else, I hope it remains, undisturbed and magical.