Tuesday, April 2, 2024

Andaman Day 6 - The Indian Navy's Samudrika museum at Port Blair

 Feb 15th 2024 - post lunch

Continued from here - the morning at Kalatang

The Samudrika museum is in Haddo.  It was less than 500 m from where we stayed.

Maintained by the Indian Navy, it was good to visit - there were sections on the origins, geology, the sea life and the tribals.



I used "text recognition" from the photographs and plates up on the walls - so this below are verbatims from the Samudrika museum.

PANORAMIC INTRODUCTION

Andaman Nicobar archipelago is situated in the Bay of Bengal, mid way between peninsular India and Myanmar, spreading like a broken necklace in the North-south direction. These islands are Located between 06°45" and 13°41" North latitude, and 92°12" and 93957" East longitude. There are 572 islands which can be distinguished into two groups geographically. Only 36 islands are inhabited by human beings, 24 being in Andaman group and 12 in Nicobar group of islands. Islands located north of 10° A latitude are known as Andaman group of Islands while islands located south of 10°N latitude are called Nicobar group of islands: Total geographic area of A L I Islands is 8249 sq km of which Andaman group of islands cover 6408 sq km. while Nicobar group cover 1841 km.

These islands are the summits of a submarine mountain range bring on the great tectonic suture zone extending from the eastern Himalayas along the Myanmar border to the Arakan and finally Sumatra and lesser Sundas. The northern most part of these islands is isolated from Cape Negrais in Southern Myanmar by the North Preparis Channel and the southern most part is also separated from the Acheen Head of Western Sumatra by the great Channel. There are two more deep channels - the Ten Degree Channel which isolates Andaman islands from Nicobar islands and the Somber Channel which isolates great Nicobar from Nicobar Is and the Nancowrie group.

FORMATION OF ANDAMAN AND NICOBAR ISLANDS

Far back in time, some 150 million years ago, molten magma might have oozed from earth's crust along the dilated ocean floor at the foot of a submarine ridge. The phenomenon appears to have taken a long time thus creating mid-ocean rise known to many Geologists as. 'whale back tumours. These islands with a few exceptions are volcanic in origin. We are in fact at the tip of a risen undulating lava plateau, the core of which goes deep down beyond the ocean floor. This hypothesis is in conformity with the expanding earth theory.  

The only live volcano in the Indian peninsula, Barren lies around 120 km. North East of Port Blair in Andaman sea (12°17' North Latitude and 93•50' East Longitude. This tiny almost circular island covers an area of about 8 sq. km and has a diameter of about 3 km. It belongs to general Sunda group and is believed to have born out of an eruption which occurred during the late Pleistocene period. Later in the course of geological evolution the prime giant cone got transformed to the present day Barren. The existing cone in fact, is the central part of the blown off cauldron. 

Contrary to its name Barren Island is fully covered with lush green forest and is inhabited by 13 species of birds, 10 species of butterflies, 09 species of insects, 07 species of mammals, 06 species of flies and 02 species each of centipedes and spiders. The mammals include a stock of feral goats, which have adapted themselves to the terrain and depend on sea water to survive in the absence  of a perennial fresh water source on the island. It is believed that the goats reached the island following a shipwreck in the region.

(Barren Island sounds totally fascinating!Erupted in 1991 and then even in 2020!  https://roundglasssustain.com/photo-stories/barren-island)

DISCOVERY

The Chinese knew of these islands more than a thousand years ago and called it 'yeng-t omag' in the first millennium. Ptolemy, the renowned Roman geographer during the second century called it "Angdaman islands '(Islands of good fortune).

I' T Sing, a Buddhist monk, named it Lo-jen-kuo' (Land of Naked). The great traveller Marco Polo called it 'Angamanain. In the 15* century, Nicolo Contri, the Italian traveler called them 'Island of God".

However, when the current name 'Andaman' crept in is shrouded. The Indian legends trace back the origins of the islands to antiquity. The name Andaman being derived from Handuman, or Hanuman, the monkey god of the epic Ramayana, who is said to have used the islands as stepping stones on his journey to Sri Lanka across the sea. The name Nicobar seems to be a corruption of a South Indian term Nakkavaram' (Land of Naked) as indicated in the great Tanjore inscription of 1050 A.D.

ABORIGINES & TRIBES

It is believed that the Andaman aborigines might have reached these islands very early in time, possibly by boat from South East Asia since they show a strong affinity to the Semangs of Malaysia and the Aetas of Philippines. However, a recent DNA match is indicative of direct link with the pygmies of Southern Africa. The Nicobarese must have migrated sometime before the Christian era.

The origin of Andaman aborigines are primarily hunter-gatherers, whereas the tribes of Nicobar are mainly horticulturists and herders. Sentinelese continue to be hostile to outsiders whereas the once ferocious Jarawas are gradually becoming friendly to civilized population. Onges and Great Andamanese have accepted the presence of outsiders. The Nicobarese have integrated well with outsiders and have joined the Indian mainstream. Shompens still avoid contact but are non hostile.


JARAWA

This Jarawas live in the reserve forest belt of about 639 sq.km area in western coast of south and Middle Andaman. The members of this tribe are now becoming frienaly. However, they continue with their primitive way of ife. The Jarawa live in communal huts, which lack a sleeping platform. They utilize naturally available material such a palm laves, barks, canes, seashells, corals etc. for their ornaments as well as for their dress. Their population is around 240.

ONGE

The Onge live in Little Andaman, as island 130 km. south of Port Blair. They inhabited in two settlements, one at Dugong Creek and other at South Bay overan area of 25 sq. km. The Onge differ from the Great Andamanese in language and in some aspects of their culture. Their settlement pattern and subsistence activities are however similar to those of the Great Andamanese. They have their local groups with well defined territories for hunting and collecting forest products.

Each member of the clan lives in his / her respective communal hut. This tribe still exists as hunters. Monogamy is their traditional social norm. Ones are friendly with neighbours and visitors. There are about 98 Onges alive today.

GREAT ANDAMANESE

The vanishing Great Andamanese tribe is settled at Strait Island, which is about 46Km. Away from Port Blair and has an area of 60ha. Present population of 43 are the remnants of ten clans of the once flourishing aborigines who inhabited the South & Middle Andaman and were first to be befriended. Mass mortality occurred among them soon on contact with civilized man through influenza, small pox, measles and sexually transmitted infectious diseases. Today they are considered perhaps the weakest ethnic group.

NICOBARESE

Nicobarese are simple people and maintain a simple lifestyle. A 'Captain' heads each village and the leader of the whole island is known as the 'Chief Captain'. Central Nicobar Islands were sometimes headed by lady captains often termed as 'Rani' of the island. Rani Lachmi of Nancowry and Rani Changa of Katchal ruled their respective islands with authority for a considerable period. The Nicobarese joined mainstream civilization a couple of decades back and boasts of employment in respected civil posts and private endeavours by their clan. Their present population is estimated at 28653.

SENTINELESE

Sentinelese are the sole inhabitants of the North Sentinel Island, which is 60 sq.km in area and located 34 km west of South Andaman. They live in complete isolation. They are hostile, semi -nomadic and their settlement consists of about 20 single huts close to one another in a cluster. Their present population is estimated at 39.

SHOMPENS

The Shompens inhabit 119 sq. km interior forest area of Great Nicobar. They are shy by nature and avoid contact with outsiders. Shompens live invariably along or around the perennial fresh water rivers, streams or rivulets in the forest. Shompen villages generally comprise 2 to 10 huts at a place. Their huts are constructed on piles, the height of which varies from. 1.5m to 3m. they use palm leaves and padanus leaves to thatch their huts. The floor space on the piers is used for living while the space below is utilized for their domestic animals. Monogamy as well as polygamy is a social norm. In each village the oldest male is the head of the tribe. Burial is their traditional custom fordisposal ofthe dead. Shompen population is estimated to be 398.


NATURAL ECOSYSTEM & WIDUFE

Andaman I Nicobar Islands with its vast coastline of 6 lakh sq. km. of exclusive economic zone and richest rain forests are the repository of an immense variety of ecosystems and wildlife. There are over 2200 flowering plants and 120 ferns (Gesides other plants), 58 mammals, 242 birds, 83 reptiles, 10 amphibians, 750 fishes, 326 coelenterates (corals, sponges, sea anemones, jellyfish etc), 407 crustaceans (crabs, lobsters, shrimps, barnacles, etc), 941 molluscs (limpets, oysters, clams, snails, squid, mussels, etc) 1500 insects, 62 spiders and scorpions, and others.

The biological investigation is a continual process and possibly many more species will be unearthed over time.

It is significant to note that a high percentage of these species and sub species are endemic. This is largely because of the isolated nature of the islands where there is always a great tendency for speciation among the island animals.

The flora and fauna of these islands have varied similarity or affinity to the of Indo-Chinese, Indo-Malaya, Indo-Burmese and Indian mainland regions.


TIMBER

(My heart wept at this title - living trees and forests, and all we can see is there use as timber.) 

Andaman Forest abounds in plethora of timber species numbering 200 or more, out of which about 30 varieties are considered to be commercial. Major commercial timber species are Gurjan (Dipterocarpus spp.) and Padauk (Sterocarpus dalbergioides).

Ornamental wood such as Marble wood (Diospyros marmorata), Padauk (Pterocarpus dalbergioides), Silver grey (a special formation of wood in white chuglam), Chooi (Sageraca elliptica) and Koko (Albizzia Lebbeck) are noted for their pronounced grain formation.

Burr and the Buttress formation in Andaman Padauk are World famous for their exceptionally unique charm and figuring. Largest piece of Buttress known from Andaman was dining table of 13' X 7'.

The largest piece of Burr was again a dining table to seat eight persons at a time.


ARE CORAL ANIMALS OR ROCKS?

Many people think that corals are just lifeless rocks but in fact corals are animals which grow in stony skeleton. The living part of a coral is a thin layer on the outside of the colony. The coral animals can withdraw into the skeleton when they are attacked or when they are just resting. Coral animal is called a polyp and is a small, soft tube which looks like a tiny tree with its branches swaying in the water. At the top of the polyp is the mouth which is surrounded by the finger-like branches called tentacles. The polyp nestles inside a porous cup like structure.

Corals are found in different shapes and sizes. In this photograph (taken at night) the colonies of polyps can be clearly seen to emerge and extend their tentacles to extract calcium from seawater to build their communal coral reef structure, and use their stinging nematocysts to capture tiny zooplankton delivered by marine currents.

Coral Reef

A coral reef is an assemblage of more than 3,000 living organism in perfect harmony, a magnificent manitestation of nature's ability to create, thread and balance various life forms in space and time. Coral reef ecosystem is the most intricate, diversified and aesthetically appealing ecosystems of this planet.

Andaman Reef Builders

Coral reef all over the world are the handiwork of Hermatypic reef builders. In these islands there are two chief reef builders namely Porites and Favia. The other forms present here such as farites, platygyra, symphyllia, ganiasprea and diplostrea (brain coral) are the associated reef builders. These coral create massive dome shape colonies creating shelters for other branching and delicate forms such as Acropora (Staghorn coral) Pocillopora (Thorny coral), Stylophora (Birds nest) and Montipora to establish.

All the massive and branching forms named above are sedentary and colonial. However, there is also a solitary coral, which belongs to family Fungidae popularly known as. 'Mushroom Coral'.

Coral Reproduction

A true reef building stony coral may be unisexual or bisexual.

In sexual process they breed together once in a year at a predetermined time after dusk, a day or two before the spring full moon. Male and Female spawn is released in millions of pink balls. These balls burst and the process of fertilization is completed. This process, at places, is so intense that the water stays pinkish till next morning. A large number of baby corals are released in the open ocean this way. After sometime these baby corals settle over a suitable substratum and start forming new colonies through asexual reproduction. Their morphological features change with environment in which they settle.

I saw these corals on the snorkelling outing from Chidiyatapu, the next day.

The museum had a great shell collection






There was another section on the achievements of the Indian Navy and their presence in the Andamans. It was getting to closing time, and so we left.  I strolled past the humongous Blue Whale skeleton that was kept on the lawns in the front.

There was a souvenir shop with a lot of shell craft - I wondered how shell sales were sill being allowed.  Is it not a protected item?  There were also tribal "dolls",  I wonder they don't have settler dolls.

As we strolled back, this elegant mosque caught my eye.

One of the beautifully decorated minarets.

As the sun went down, there was another surprise pre dinner.  Jabili showed us the Andaman Masked Owl sitting in near darkness under the roof eave of one of the homes!

It seemed smaller than the barn owl, and its facial disc was quite clear, and I am sure it was staring at us.

And so ended the day, and we were heading into our last day in the islands!

Oh, and there was an Inderjeet here too, quite different from our Rangat friend.  Rainbird Inderjeet was in the restaurant and was helpful - up to a point.  

Monday, April 1, 2024

Andamans Day 6 - The Black Baza of Kalatang and the history of names

 Continued from here.

Feb 15th 2024



We were blessed with another Andaman sunrise as we set off to revisit Kalatang.  Wherever you go, you are never far from a sunrise or sunset - the daily joy of an Island life.


As we waited for the ferry, this signboard caught my eye.

The name-changing of some of the Islands. 

In Jan 2023, 21 islands were renamed after Param Vir Chakras.  A few years earlier there was renaming of the more popular islands -  Ross Island has become Netaji Subhash Chandra Bose Island, Havelock and Neil Islands have become Swaraj and Shaheed Islands.  From what I can make out, the Islanders are confused and continue to use the old names.

As I sat in the car, I mulled over the name changes, who were the original inhabitants? Should we not acknowledge them in some way.  Even the place names on the islands reflect the  settlers's history/arrival.  

Can we acknowledge the original human and non-human inhabitants?

I wished one island was named for the White-Bellied Sea Eagle - such an iconic species in the islands. One for the Saltwater crocodile and another for those Sea Mahua trees, and maybe Yadita island as well- the Andamanese word for sea turtles.  Names - they enter our imagination, keep us connected to the origins of the place, make us curious about the history and most importantly acknowledge and include the "other".  

I found this about "Baratang" - 

Baratang Island separated from South Andaman Island by the Amitla Boicha passage and Middle Andaman by Homfrays Strait was exclusively the territory of the Aka-Pucikwar. In the Andaman Islands, Baratang is the only island to retain its name to the present day since the earliest times. Gerini (1909), in his study of Ptolemaic geography refers to Baratang as one of the islands named as such since the travels of both Ptolemy and Ibn Batuta. The island, earlier known to be inhabited by the Aka-Bojigyab- Da (Pucikwar) or speakers of the original language, also has patches of land exclusively vegetated by the Talipot Palm, (C. Umbraculifera Linn) called ‘Barata’ by the Andamanese. The palm assumes immense significance in Andamanese mythological beliefs as the plant is related to the evolution of the earth and human life (Radcliffe-Brown 1922: 171).

(Jarawa Tribal Reserve Dossier, A dossier prepared by Kalpavriksh.  Edited by Pankaj Sekhsaria and Vishvajit Pandya)

Talipot Palm!!  I did not notice a single one while on the islands, and I see none on iNaturalists either, so where are these palms now?  Extinct?

Pg 23 from Yuvan's Intertidal - lists some vocabulary of the Nicobarese.  "Ank" - the call of the WBSE!

We caught the ferry and reached the Kalatang (Wonder what that name means!) forest road.  


Andaman Green Imperial Pigeons greeted us.  Long Tailed Parakeets sat on the tallest branches.  Black Naped Orioles called to each other and flew from branch to branch.  Starlings sat preening in groups as well.

An Andaman Cuckoo Dove (Macropygia rufipennis) perched taking in the morning sun, its tail feathers prominent as it had lifted its wings.  We usually spotted these birds high in the canopy.  I loved the barred rufous markings on its neck and chest.  

A pair of Greater Racket Tailed Drongos swung on a liana.

But the morning belonged to the pair of Black Bazas, as they flew from branch to branch in the lower canopy, sometimes hidden, sometimes out in the open.  

That distinctive crest
oh so close
calligraphy strokes
Black and white


The Black Baza (Aviceda leuphotes) is an oh so small and elegant raptor.  I wonder why its called a bird of prey - seems to feed on insects, as do many non-bird of prey.



What a gorgeous bird isn't it?  When it sat showing the chest, there was a completely different look to it.  Like as if dressed in a three piece suit, with an inner chestnut waistcoat, with the white shirt seen, under the black coat!


We wandered down the path some more.  I saw a cat, Andaman bulbuls and woodpeckers, flies on dung, and even some termites crossing.     


We had breakfast, meandered a bit more, I saw Grey Pansies and even a Southern Birdwing!

Then, we headed back, missing the 930 return ferry to Chatham saw mill, and so our driver took us by the land route instead of waiting for the next ferry, and so we saw some of the wetlands on the way, and spied Cotton Pygmy geese, Egrets,  circling WBSE and more.




It was back to Rainbird hotel for lunch and a chota snooze.  After lunch, the others went off to Ograbaj again.

Sekar and I decided to explore the museum down the road.

Friday, March 29, 2024

Andamans Day 5 - The Andaman teals, and Daurian Starling show and other sidelights

 Continued from here.  

Feb 14th 2024 evening

There was no rest for the sleepy.  In order to maximise daylight hours and save time, we were stopping at Sippighat and Junglighat before calling it a day.

Many new sights awaited.  Sippighat looked very different from the last time we were here.  The inundation of Sippighat and the Tsunami effect was still evident in 2017, but not any more.  Now the whole landscape looked like a series of ponds,  on either side of the road.

We crossed Ograbhaj wetlands, but did not stop as there was not much activity here.  Jabili scanned the wetlands, and then we moved on.


It was 330 in the afternoon, the sun was doing its thing - bringing more warmth and sunshine than we wanted - and we saw all these little brown dots in the water.  So, sun or no sun we had to investigate if these were the endemic Andaman Teals.

The Andaman Teals of Sippighat

Yes they were! In the hundreds - in the reeds and in the water,   
on the posts,

they were splashing about, cooling off by having regular dunks

spreading their wings in the water, preening,

swimming around, and

flying from one part of the lake to the other.  

It was a joy to watch, some were busy, others meditated - very different tactics to stay cool.  
Andaman Teals are gregarious and the only duck endemic to Andamans.
And, they all had different levels of white - some only the white eyering, others with full white heads

We saw some Lesser Whistling Ducks too, but no other ducks on this trip.  

We had to move on to Junglighat, as Jabili wanted us to be there by 430 for the sunset show of the Starlings.

So off we went.

The Starling show at Junglighat

This is where we came to see the Starlings.  Very uninspiring indeed - low tide exposing the detritus of us humans - junked boats, plastic cans of various colours, old tires, discarded shoes and much more.  

We were on the opposite side of the Junglighat jetty.  Through my binoculars, the white ship in the background to the left - had the word "Bar" on a name board.  I idly wondered if it was functioning.  

A Whimbrel foraged among the cans, its long down-turned beak very evident.

Scan further right, and there were healthy and plentiful mangrove groves.  The cattle egrets were assembled on one bush in the foreground.


We waited on the embankment next to the mangroves, a little clearing.  Where we stood, there was a cricket net to the left, with 3 young children playing catch.  A banyan tree behind had a bunch of seated elders who eyed us with some curiosity.  

As we waited, we passed the time seeing the other birds - mynas by the dozens flew back and forth, a couple of white throated kingfishers streaked across, Plume-toed swiftlets zipped around in the air, sandpipers bobbed and hurried in the mud, while the reef herons stood stock still.

There were plenty of crows all around.  House crows with grey necks, we concluded, not the Large Billed.  

(I learnt that it is not just Large Billed Crow anymore - there is Eastern Jungle Crow Corvus levaillantii and Indian Jungle Crow Corvus culminatus found in Chennai, and the Corvus macrorhynchos of north India and rest of Asia.) And so, the black crows with large bills we were seeing in Andamans were the  Eastern Jungle Crow.  I think.  I will await clarifications from the others.

In the midst of the house crows that we were seeing Umesh said there were also Jungle Crows, which neither me nor the others had noticed.  Now Srinivas said he was not seeing any Jungle, only House.  And asked Umesh to show him a Jungle, and then Umesh snapped back you had to see for yourself and he cannot be pointing out crows!! 😀. And so ensued the" Crow Quarrel" which led to Umesh and Srinivas having a Cold War like two schoolboys, and the rest of us a trifle amused but also wary of the clashing chieftains.  The subject of crows was not mentioned on the remainder of the trip I think, and we were saved by the arrival of the Daurians!

Moral - Shouldn't bird when hungry and/or tired.  
 
The Daurian Murmuration

Suddenly, they were there, where did they come from?!  




"When Jabili Rao, our knowledgeable Bird Guide in the Andamans, was rushing us to reach a particular spot by 4.30pm, so as not to miss a murmuration, I was quite excited.
The location was not too far from our hotel, and by a Ferry landing, in Port Blair. It was low tide, and the muddy flats looked rather like our own Pallikaranai marsh, which the GCC uses as a garbage dump.
We were going to see Daurian Starlings (purple-backed starlings), coming to roost. The birds arrived as expected, and it was fascinating to watch them swarm, wheeling and turning, without any collisions! They reminded me of a squadron of WW2 fighter planes.
They were very quick, and despite their numbers, it wasn't so easy to get a fix on, and follow them, with our long telephoto lenses. Absolutely beautiful!
I learnt that they were not quite as numerous this time around. Nevertheless, it was a sight to behold as they made their very rapid, aerial sorties, before plunging into the mangroves, and disappearing without any trace! A little later I saw common mynahs, and house sparrows do much the same - plunging into the mangroves, as if they were a volley of arrows - I wonder if it is a trick to prevent predators from knowing their exact roosting spots."


With a photo bombing crow, oops.  Not so densely packed, when you see like this.

 
That "V" on the back, this is the way to id the Daurian from the other starlings, I learnt.

They are also called Purple-backed starlings - but I saw them as more brown than any other colour.  The females are more brown.

The delight that technology brings - zoom, freeze, capture for eternity.



Witnessing a murmuration - even a small one like this - filled me with mystery and awe.  Hundreds of wingbeats and soft class, a murmuration does make.   Is there some mental mind reading going on here?  How do birds know when to turn, when to dive and who is the leader?

Obviously I am not the first one asking these questions.  And I found these interesting answers.

The "How" answer


In 2013, a mechanical and aerospace engineer and her team from Princeton collaborated with physicists in Italy to study murmurations. "In a flock with 1,200 birds, it is clear that not every bird will be able to keep track of the other 1,199 birds," Naomi Leonard, the Princeton engineer, said back then, "so an important question is 'Who is keeping track of whom?'"


The Italian physicists used more than 400 photos from several videos to find out, plotting the position and speed of birds as they flocked. From that, they built a mathematical model that identified the optimal number of flock-mates for each bird to track.

Turns out the magic number is seven: Each bird keeps tabs on its seven closest neighbors and ignores all else. Considering all these little groups of seven touch on other individuals and groups of seven, twists and turns quickly spread.

"Birds have a much higher temporal resolution than we do," says Pesendorfer, meaning that birds take in certain information around them and process it much more quickly than humans. "They see much faster than we do."


When do they form?

https://www.lancswt.org.uk/blog/charlotte-varela/starling-murmuration-facts

Murmurations always form over the birds’ communal roosting site. As the number of starlings reaches its peak and the last of the daylight begins to fade, an unspoken signal seems to tell the group to funnel towards the ground with one last sweeping motion and calming whoosh of wings. Roosts can be anything from a reedbed to a seaside pier where the group can huddle together for warmth and chatter about the best feeding grounds.

But, why??

https://www.natgeokids.com/uk/discover/animals/birds/starling-murmurations/

There’s safety in numbers. It’s much harder for predators like the speedy peregrine falcon to single out a particular bird when they’re all flying together.

Starlings also gather together to keep warm and exchange important information – keeping up connections is key when you’re a bird!

There is a romance and joy that birds bring to the experience of the outdoors.

Finally at our hotel for the next two nights!  Our rooms were at a lower floor than the lobby, and the restaurant was one floor below the rooms.  I would forget if I had to go up or go down, at times.  
This was the view towards the rear of the building, through the window in the corridor.


Our room had interesting coloured lights for decor, but otherwise, it was nice and comfortable, and you can see the room here.  

A further surprise awaited Sekar - as a birthday cake was organised by Umesh via Jabili.  It was quite sinful, and even tempted Desi who doesn't eat cakes to have a go!  Desi was very systematic in cutting as well.  I loved the happy birthday marching song that the six men mustered for Sekar!  We kept away a bit for the drivers and Jabili who couldn't stay.



Sekar and I went off for dinner to Seafood Delights Andaman.  We hopped into an auto who took us there for 35Rs.  We had overlooked that it was Valentine's Day, and the restaurant was busy!  It is on the second floor with a nice airy feel to it.  The head waiter asked us if we would share a table, and we said why not.  At the other end of the six seater were a young couple with a child, and they left soon.  We had a mustard fish and some rotis if I remember right and some interesting soup.  It was nice to people watch.  These were not tourists, many were Islanders, familiar with the place and the menu and the staff.  There was a nice vibe to it.

Our return was a bit of a comic adventure with our driver not knowing where our hotel was, Google Maps kept rerouting since he was quick in turning where he should not turn, we came up some steep incline and through some private estate and finally arrived.  At which point he said, "Oh you should have said Haddo area, I would have known!"  

And so ended a super long day with many moments of wonder, some comedy and a whole lot of fun.

Ebird Checklist for the second half of 14th.


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