Madras Ramblings

Sunday, January 4, 2009

The little known treasures of Juna Mahal

Start from here.

High up on the hill behind the Udai Bilas Palace is the original Dungarpur palace, Juna Mahal, which dates to the 13th century, and was occupied until probably the late 19th century when the new lake-side palace was built.

We came across this lovely lady (left) inside that old, now uninhabited palace. Doesn't she remind you of this stamp (on the right)?!

It was a strange and interesting visit to the Juna Mahal.

A view of Juna Mahal from above

The views from the outside told of a grand old palace, seven storeys high, fallen into neglect.

I imagined, dusty, empty rooms that must have witnessed palace intrigue, romance and war!

The base of the wall in the courtyard was encrusted with dancing figures, probably taken from elsewhere?

As I looked up, the lovely intricate work on the jharokas still caught my eye.

All we needed was a wizened old Rajput sitting at the entrance, ready to tell us the legends and stories of days gone by - of the possible visit of Jalaluddin Akbar, the machinations of the British and the valour of the Rajputs.

Well, that was not to be, and we had to settle for the incumbent owner - who in all fairness, did a grand job!
He pointed out the grand arched entrance through which rode horses and probably camel. I imagined fierce warriors guarding these gates, and while all was quiet and serene within, there was probably a noisy market outside!
Arched entrance

We saw the stables and the wide avenue for the horses, overlooked by the mahal.

We took narrow staircases - just sufficient for one - up. The stairways always curved to the right, we were told. An intruder, attacker was at an immediate disadvantage since there was no room to swing his right, sword-bearing arm.

So, the Juna Mahal had the feel of a fort to it, more than a palace

..... until we reach the halls.
The Darbar hall and the living chambers - what a riot of colour!

Murals on the walls, painted ceilings, carpets, engraved mirrors, they were all there!

Hunting scenes

Grand processions....

Walls with little windows, for the queens to look out, and covered with a variety of motifs and themes.

It had obviously been redone, renovated and re-embellished during its occupation. Certain panels were in better shape than others, but just like the Seraglio at Topkapi in Istanbul, there was a cheerful lack of continuity or theme.

There was a wall embedded with porcelain plates

Panels with lovely embedded decorations

gorgeously colourful floral motifs

Fading Krishna and gopi scenes

A peep out of one of the windows revealed the dusty town below.

... we emerged onto the roof the mahal. Further up the hill, we saw the walls of the fort, and a white temple wall stood out in stark contrast.

We travelled up the hill - in four-wheel drives, to be greeted by the middday sun, and this sight of the town of Dungarpur sprawling out at the base of the hill.

I imagined the area in the 13th and 14th centuries, probably scrub jungle, with tigers and deer.

Lost now forever.

Read about the birds of Dungarpur here.

Saturday, January 3, 2009

A weekend in Dungarpur

I have lost my voice. I have to either whisper or talk in harsh croaks like a dying crow. So, I have taken to silence (much to the relief of my immediate family I can see). Writing about my experiences of the last month seem a more dignified option to squawking.

A few months ago,my husband casually mentioned a weekend reunion with his old boarding school buddies. I was quick and gracious in my "permission" to him to go without me - I mean how many times have we wives heard the same completely incredible (but true) stories? Then he sent me the link to the place of the intended visit - Udai Bilas Palace in Dungarpur. Hmmm, I could put up with a few story-reruns for this, I thought to myself. And, so it appears, did half a dozen other wives!

And so, there we were one Friday evening, after a three hour ride from Ahmedabad at the gates of the palace, my first visit to the state of Rajasthan, my first stay at a palace and my first live glimpse of turbaned Rajputs..... not to mention my first live view of the Fevicol ad - you know the one with all the turbaned, mustached, "stuck" to the bus, on the roof, sides and bonnet?!

My first glimpse of the palace

We entered and walked through to the lakeside, and in the fading evening light these were our first views.

The large Ghaibsagar lake, full of ducks - mainly spot-billed - cormorants, egrets and moorhens!

At the far shore of the lake was a large Jain temple, highlighted by that little hillock behind it.

As we walked along the lakeshore to our room, we saw this little temple in the lake. To be visited by boat, unless you fancy a swim across, that is.

Our host was suddenly excited, pointing to the little flock of ducks at the base of the temple wall. Amongst the spot-billed ducks was a lone pair of migratory mallard ducks! Next morning, they were gone, and I didn't see them at all after that first sighting.

The lake view of the palace. Our room was in the wing on the left, entering through the archway on the lakefront.

As we were to discover, the palace had many hidden, winding staircases, narrow and steep, and one of these led to our room.
The stairway to room No 5!

It curved away to more steps! This is the view from the top of the stairs! So, despite all the wining and dining we did, the stair climb to and from our room was a good calorie-burner!

The only hitch was if one had heavy or large luggage - we didn't - I wonder how they would have carried it up.

One enters near the archway in the background into this large and spacious room, with a lovely view - through the windows on the left - of the lake.
The charming bathroom, which also had a view!

Dropped our bags here, and set off to explore.

The central courtyard

These are the older parts of the palace. Dates back to the mid 19th century, we were told. (Udai Bilas is actually the new palace. The original and older one, now unused, is the Juna Mahal.)

I have not seen any other Rajput palace up close, but from what the others said this palace was a fine example of Rajput architecture of that period, with these lovely pillars, finely carved little alcoves and verandahs and intricate panelling.

The hihglights in green-grey are a local stone called pareva. I really liked the texture of this stone. The night was a full-moon night, and as we women sat around the courtyard chatting and laughing, the moon came into the space and cast a lovely light on the stone.

It was quite magical. I wonder if the men actually noticed, they were so busy catching up indoors with horror stories of their past, that I think they just missed the play of light and night on the palace!

The Ek Thambia Mahal sat in the middle of the courtyard, and looked like it was surrounded by water fountains and a moat in the old days. On the other side, there was a little walkway across the moat, so we could wander around the base of this little one-pillared mahal. And guess what, there were little ceramic, English looking dolls nestled in niches in the pillars!

If you click on the picture and zoom in, you will notice that each pillar and the hanging eaves (I hope that's what they're called) have so much workmanship on them, all the way up and down the structure.

New additions

The swimming pool overlooking the lake..
..and this absolutely magical dining table!

Quite marvellous! Open to the skies, above, with a water pool in the middle, which could be still and strewn with rose petals or have water bubbling through it. All quite magical. And the food...I have not had such good rasmalais anywhere I tell you. And the special local rotis - lets just say I ate a fair amount!