Travels along the Thamirabarani - Day 4 - Padhaneer, KMTR and a flaming Laburnum

Continued from here.

Day 4: 20 April 2023

By Gayathri R

(My comments in italics)

The morning began with a Malkoha sighting - there were a pair and Baskaran managed this shot of the full bird!  Most often, we were seeing tail or face or beak, with the restof the bird hidden behind.  A whole group of us crowded near the fence to see these beauties.

 

Before wandering in to the bus, I stared curiously at the grasses there, which seemed all knotted, as if some creature had been at work building a nest.

And then eagle-eyes Sagarika spots an Assasin.  Well, thats what these bugs are called I believe. Spot it if you can, and look for that long proboscis.  That is the assisination weapon - it injects saliva into the hapless prey, which then liquefies its insides which it then sucks on like a nice cold mildshake.  All this learning is today.  That day, I looked at it, or rather didn't see it, and then when I did, I was marvelling at its camouflage. "Tribe Harpactorini"

 Padhaneer!

The hero of the morning was Borassus flabellifer, the nungu tree, our state tree, ignored for most of the year, until it is nungu season!

As we got into the bus, Vijay announced he had a sweet surprise for us.  The bus came to a halt on the highway, along an avenue of Palmyra - and Padhaneer was announced.  The boys were dubious as was I, the men were gleeful, the women sceptical, but everyone curious.

Nungu was a favourite summer pastime at my grandparents' home in Coimbatore, but what was this padhaneer?  Wasnt it like pre-fermented toddy?  Shouldn't we be careful?

By the time these questions went through my head, everyone was busy slurping, a long line had formed each with one of these delightful cups.

I had a first tentative sip, oh!! it was delicious! - Sweet, malty, grainy and cool!  

Clay pots are placed under the flower fronds and the sweet sap collected early in the morning.  When fermented, this turns into toddy (was my understanding).

 Raji, Chitra and Sara lined up for second cups, Samrudh did not take to it, and Baskaran was in seventh heaven.
 

The tools of the trade, to clumb up, pierce the fronds and tie the pots

These cups - so aesthetic.

The video below shows how the rib is removed and the fronds are tied, to make these cups.

 

KMTR and the Sorimuthu Iyyanar Kovil

The Kalakad Mundanthurai Tiger Reserve (KMTR) has been on my wish list for more than a decade.  This reserve is part of the Agasthyamalai Biosphere Reserve, which straddles Kerala and Tamil Nadu.  If I remember right, Thanikai mentioned how the Thamirabarani originates within the KMTR.  If I remember right, Isakki mentioned there were 13 rivers, including the Manimuthar, Ganga and Kallar  in this region. The main species being protected was the LTMs - Lion tailed Macaques - and later tiger.

The landscapes vary from  moist to dry, and Kakachi was also part of the overall area was how I understood.  We were off to the Sorimuthu Ayyanar kovil area - for which special permission is not needed.  So we did not go into any "non public" places.

We crossed several canals and streams - all part of the wider Thamirabarani network.  Past Kalidakurichi and Ambasamudram.  We were soon winding up the hills.  It was a dry April scenery.

And we were at the Papanasam falls. Alighting from the bus was not allowed, so Isakki took everyone's phones and took some lovely pictures of the Papanasam Agasthiyar falls.  This is one of the falls where the Thamirabarani moves to the flatlands, and there is also a big Hydel project and a dam in the vicinity.  It was not in full force, but still quite a splendid sight.

Just a km or so before the temple, we got off and decided to walk the road.  There were many butterflies in the undergrowth keeping everyone busy.  We spotted a Leafbird, Lyra kept both eyes on her dad,

 

A watchtower had to be climbed, and what a breathtaking anorama, of the forests, the temple, the rocks and the river.

The bridge across the Thamirabarani

With the temple at the far end of the rocks.

Amidst the rocks, these plants were growing.

The Sorimuthu Ayyanar Temple, on the banks of the river flowing from the left of the picture, to the foreground.  What a grand sight!  The temple can be accessed from th right, over the bridge.  The temple sees busloads of pilgrims in the month of Aadi - especially amavasai.  It is a special temple for Sabaramalai pilgrims.  the Ayyanar deity is a avatar of Ayyappan.  Common names in the region - Pechi, Isakki, Pattavarayan - these are all part of the various deities at this temple.

As we crossed the bridge and headed to our bus, to return for breakfast, we saw this clump and a board.  

Euphorbia susan-holmesiae - a Cactus native to this region, and is also endangered. 

Vitex leucoxylon - identified by Thanikai as Neer Nocchi (tamil name). 

Breakfast, tree climbing and the most gorgeous Laburnum I have ever seen

It was past 9, we were hungry and hot, as we descended past the Papanasam temple and down to this lovely spot by the river.  Under the shade of a large Banyan tree, we feasted on Pongal (I think).

All these spots were (relatively) clean and defecation free - I found that amazing and enjoyable in itself.  One of the joyous revelations of the trip is the relative cleanliness of the surroundings of Tirunelveli and the river.

The banyan - boys and girls climbed, many ladies swung - including Raji, with the most gleeful expression on her face.  I did not attempt it.

What a gorgeous sight this tree was!  When we returned to Chennai, the Laburnums burst into bloom in May, this year - and some are even now in flower.  We all took pictures under this tree, of this tree, various combinations.

Back to Singampatti for a final dip in the river - it was HOT, and I had much travel ahead of me, so like a responsible adult (for a change) I decided to stay out of the sun and the water.  I watched the antics of the Greenish Leaf warbler instead.  This was the better dipping point - stronger water flow, and deeper as well - there was a mid-river ladies conference as well, it was wonderful to see.  Also impressive is the magical changing routines pre and post bath that the ladies managed.

 

It called, and chirped, and Aravind, Shashank, Sagarika and I followed it around.  Photo by Sagarika

Photo by Sagarika

 

 And so we returned back to our dorms, to pack and eat and rest before leaving.  Samrudh went off spider hunting within the campus along with Sagarika, the other boys played cricket.

The spiders are in this link.

Gayathri sums it up best:

We then came back and thanked everyone who crafted a spectacular journey, extending their hospitality. After delightful lunch with payasam, we started packing for our return trip. With loads of memories and authentic Tirunelveli halwa, we bid good-bye to the magnificent Thamirabarani landscape with high hopes of returning back. Below is a group photo of us in the campus.

Thanks to all the members of the group for sharing the sightings list, pictures and offering a lovely company. Thanks to Sagarika for her valuable feedback during report making. Special thanks to Vijay sir for organising this awesome trip. 

PS:  Raji got off at Tiruneveli - Janakiraman hotel to spend an extra day temple visiting, so no return adventures with her.  There was a rowdy and raucous "goodbye" that resounded all through the bus as she alighted.  After dropping her, we seemed to go round and round, seeing the same streets, as there were one way streets.

Chitra and I had a chocobar in the station, with much glee.

No Snorer in our compartment, so we slept well, and got off at Egmore, said goodbyes, and made our way together across the city - Mr Shankarnarayan, Chitra, Sheila and me. It is always difficult to say goodbye.

The iNaturalist species list

https://www.inaturalist.org/lists/4402490-Tirunelveli-Trip?view=plain