Saturday, August 31, 2024

Women in the wild - book review

I overlooked storing this on the blog.

Viji, the Turtle Girl from Chennai and other Women in the Wild � Madras Musings | We Care for Madras that is Chennai

Viji, the Turtle Girl from Chennai and other Women in the Wild


I discovered the pleasures of birdwatching quite late in life, and through birds I experienced trees, flowers, nature and the outdoors in a rather different way – I learnt to observe, I marvelled at all that I had missed and have new respect for all those who work so hard to protect, preserve and document all that binds us in this completely interconnected web of life on earth.

It was but natural, therefore, that I picked up Womenin the Wild to read. Edited by Anita Mani, this book is compelling both for the astonishing work done by the profiled scientists and the delightfully smooth and empathetic storytelling of the various essayists. In her introduction, Anita says of the women portrayed: “they are here because they have either had substantial impact on species/landscape conservation or because their work has contributed to the resolution of environmental challenges confronting wildlife in India.” In the same vein she mentions that, as an editor, she aimed to find authors who knew their subjects personally. 

Editor Anita Mani with the Indian Pitta collection.

The Madras/Chennai connections to many of the women field biologists featured in the book made my reading experience more personal.

Anita herself grew up in Chennai. Schooled at Rosary and a graduate of Stella Maris, she trained and worked as a journalist, moved into the corporate sector and tech writing for a while, before going back to writing and publishing. She worked with a children’s newspaper before launching Indian Pitta, India’s first bird book imprint under Juggernaut. Anita says that learning about Vijaya’s remarkable journey and experiences seeded the inspiration for the book and the rediscovery of the sadly long forgotten birdwoman, Jamal Ara. 

There are a trio of women from Chennai featured in the book: Vijaya, in The Turtle Girl, Divya Mudappa in the Canopy Crusader and Divya Karnad in Like a Fish to Water. India’s Wildlife Detective Uma Ramakrishnan’s family hails from TN and Vidya Athreya and Ghazala Shahabuddin studied at Salim Ali School of Ecology (SAS) in Pondy. Anita Mani observes in her Introduction that SAS and the Bangalore based National Centre for Biological Sciences (NCBS) created a channel for women field biologists in a big way and helped them build a mutual network and support system.

The Turtle Girl J. Vijaya, Viji as she was called, is part of the history of herpetology in India, and one only has to search “cane turtle” to learn about the impact of Viji on the species, their study and conservation. She cut her teeth at the Crocodile Bank with the legendary Rom Whitaker, and who better to write her profile than Zai Whitaker? Viji “discovered” the Crocodile Bank via the Snake Park one summer as a student at Ethiraj College, writes Zai, who was her senior by a few years, and came to know her closely as a colleague and friend. Escapades while trying to discover the mouth of the Cooum with her sister Prabha, collecting crocodile dung, dealing with men acting “fresh” on the Chennai buses, and the onset of the schizophrenia that brought a cruel end to a much too short life: Zai describes all this and more in a personal and poignant recollection of Viji’s life and work. Zai recounts in an interview that Viji was different, the key word was her passion. She loved the animals around her – the cats, dogs, monkeys and squirrels and also had a balanced scientific approach to her field work. 

Divya radio tracks a brown palm civet in Sengaltheri, KMTR (1999). Photo by Dr. AJT Johnsingh.

Divya Mudappa’s journey towards understanding the historical and cultural context of landscapes in order to better and more effectively conserve them effectively is well told by Shweta Taneja, who was fascinated by her deep commitment to the terrain of Valparai. Divya spent her childhood in Madikeri and came to Chennai for her Bachelor’s in Zoology at Stella Maris. It was her volunteering with the Chennai Students’ Sea Turtle Conservation Network (SSCTCN), that probably set her on a path to wildlife research that included moving on to a master’s degree from SAS Pondicherry, interning with Raghupathy Kannan and going through the heartbreak of experiencing degraded rainforests in the Western Ghats. Setting up Nature Conservation Foundation NCF with her life partner, working on the Stanmore patch first and then tying up with Parry Agro to restore the rainforest at Lower Paralai – every step brought learnings about the complexities of rainforests and their interdependencies. Shweta does full justice to the tribulations faced in this journey and the frustrations that almost drove Divya to give up. 

Anita Mani herself chose to profile Divya Karnad, the Zoology graduate from WCC, who spent her childhood dreaming of a career in wildlife in 1990s Chennai, when STEM was the only respectable thing to do. She also volunteered with SSTCN, and then went on to National Centre for Biological Sciences in Bangalore for her Masters, stayed with the turtles, working in the now famous Rushikulya beaches of Odisha, where her experiences with the fishermen brought home the truth that successful conservation has to include and involve the local communities. Anita evocatively describes the coastal ecosystems and fishing communities of Chennai, the social habits of seafood consumption and the genesis of Divya’s website-based intervention “In Season Fish”. Divya’s focus on sustainability in seafood is unique and remarkable and also very relevant to our city.

The Oaks Call her Home is one of my personal favourite essays. Neha Sinha writes about Ghazala Shahabuddin and the oak trees of Uttarakhand. Neha’s descriptions of Ghazala’s work with the oak forests and the diversity they carry in terms of bird life is a story of love, of a woman finding her voice in a patriarchal society even as she discovered her passion and stuck with it.

Much has been written and said about Raza Kazmi’s sensitive and detailed portrait of Jamal Ara, the forgotten birdwoman of India. Raza writes about his chance rediscovery of Jamal Ara via Jamal’s daughter Madhuca. Madhuca movingly recounts her mother’s struggles in marriage, her joys while in the forests and doing her wildlife research and her final battles with mental illness towards the end of her life. “A strict mother, a very private person, who loved to be in the forest. She wore green trousers and a green shirt in the forest, and at that time for a married lady and a mother to wear that was out of the question!” How a person with so much impact on government policy, protection and documentation of the biodiversity of the Chota Nagpur area besides being a gifted translator and short story writer, could have been so utterly and completely forgotten is disappointing and sad to say the least. As I discussed this with Anita, she wondered whether Jamal Ara’s gender and accompanying lack of self-promotion had led to her erasure from memory. Was it that she hailed from and worked in small town India? This anthology should be the start of the re-discovery and celebration of Jamal Ara.

The compiled portraits and profiles are a tribute to the successes of these women, a description of their journeys including some of their gender-based struggles. I also found appealing the generous sprinkling of tips for young women who may wish to follow their paths in wildlife biology. Divya Mudappa speaks of resilience in the face of challenges, Ghazala of the importance of sisterhood, Usha Ganguli of learning to be bold and Uma of believing in one’s self without guilt.

A common thread that will strike the reader is that women field biologists seem to bring empathy and emotion to their work. This helps them engage positively with communities which, in turn, positively impacts conservation and sustainability at the ground level. This is a book I will dip into time and again.

Wednesday, August 28, 2024

A crow's nest at our feet

eBird Checklist - 17 Aug 2024 - Madras Boat Club, Chennai - 11 species

When we backbenchers meet, it is usually a cheery and noisy affair and this was no different.  After ingesting the omelettes and dosais and coffee, we strolled out into the Boat Club lawns,  only to have a crow's nest fall out of the tree and at the feet of Gayathree and Sagarika.

A set of crows cawed in consternation (I assumed) from the Neem tree above, staring at the nest which was thankfully without egg, and therefore we were in no ethical dilemma.

I admired the inner neat cup - I did not think the crow made a neat nest inside, having only seen the messy exterior so far..  I was quite taken in by the little cup with the thinner lighter twigs.


The stagnant Adyar river had many pairs of Ditch jewels, which is really not good news - they are usually around polluted waters - why I do not know, but they seem to love hanging around.


A Clubtail too, I spied.  (I was quite pleased with my mobile phone via binoculars camera work.)

As we all dispersed to leave, we saw not one, not two, but a trio of Flamebacks going up a coconut tree. Such an unexpected delight, our Bhai was also exhilarated!  Flamebacks are busy always, digging, drilling and hopping up in their odd two-footed fashion.  May we never lose the joy of seeing these beautiful birds, and keep the sense of wonder in us always alive.

The Divi divi along the road was in full bloom, and I enjoyed standing under the tree and inhaling the fragrance and enjoying the "greenness" of the fresh leaves". Sagarika was busy with camera, muttering to herself - oh Tailed Jay, see there Swift, Pansy, I am not able to get a click...so many bees..."  She was in full incantation mode.  I was in Inner Peace state.

Friends and Nature make for a good therapeutic start to the day.

Friday, August 23, 2024

Chafers and Scarabs, Weevils and Jewels

It is Beetle Week and I attended an online talk by the inimitable Geetha Iyer, whose breadth and depth of insights on biodiversity in general and insects in particular are pretty awesome, to say the least.

I learnt that 40% of insects are beetles, and these include those weevils that ate up my Kabuli channa last week - so well did they burrow and munch that all that was left was skeletal remains.  (Never mind that I was banking on the said channa to feed some guests, and alternate emergency Plan B menus had to be thought of.)

Beetles are prehistoric survivors, crawling around even before dinosaurs stomped the earth, and from what I understood one of the secrets to their longevity on the planet is the hard elytra which keeps them safe from fungal and other attacks.  

Geetha shared some fiction with beetles that I now have to read - The Gold Bug by Edgar Allan Poe with a scarab beetle in it.  This one sounded astonishing - The Criminal Prosecution and Capital Punishment of Animals - EP Evans,  lists a total of 191 animal trials, and it all seems quite bewildering. In one of the cases, weevils were taken to trial in 16th century France by winemakers.

And then there are flesh eating beetles - Dermestids - that are used by those who need to clean skeletons in their cupboards - no not politicians, but scientists and researchers!  Geetha mentioned that these little creatures can industriously eat upto 5 times their body weight each day, and they are "efficient workers, do not damage the bones" and go about their business quite thoroughly.

This Tiger Beetle (Lophyra catena) was scurrying around in the sand in my mother's garden last year. They run real fast (so fast that they have to stop and reorient themselves every now and then, I read) and are quite difficult to photograph, so I am rather pleased at this picture with a mobile camera of these little carnivores.


This Leaf Chafer scarab beetle had sought the safety of the indoors to breathe its last.  I am guessing they chafe leaves in plenty and are not a friend of the farmer.



This beauty I spied on a milkweed many years ago, in the TTUF park at Taramani peaceably chomping away.  Leaf beetle of the genus Platycorynus



The Indian Green Tortoise Beetle was seen after a spell of rain in the same TTUF campus.

A Rhinoceros Beetle met its end, probably crushed underfoot.  

Rhino beetles are kept as pets I believe.  And in Thailand and Japan, Rhino beetle fights are a thing.  I did not know this.  there is even a card game called Mushiking.  Rhino beetle fights are legendary - they are herbivores and harmless, but the males, push shove and throw each other in their fight for a male!


And then just to confuse people like me there are Jewel Bugs which look like beetles but are not, as against the true Jewel beetles.

This is a Jewel Beetle (


This is a Jewel Bug, it sucks and does not chomp and that is not an elytra - it is a scutellum.  And see - there is no division in the middle, so it cannot split open, when they fly.


Sternocera chrysis
), chomping leaves at TTUF, its hard elytra in full glory.


Another road kill.  A gorgeous Flower Chafer Beetle did not make it across the road.  
"In terms of movement, adults are considered some of the best flyers among beetles. They can hover above and land on flowers or fruit. When threatened by predators, they escape by either performing a rush take off or by falling toward the ground and then flying before impact. " Wikipedia


And now I am off - need to restock on kabuli channa, remember?  (And next time those weevils come to feast, I shall take some pictures before subjecting them to capital punishment.)


Update

Sternocera chrysis - seen on September 7th.  A Jewel Beetle



Friday, June 21, 2024

A moth of such silken beauty

Tusar Silk Moth
More gorgeous than the silk 
you spin, cocooned.
Silky Resplendence.  Evanescent. 
Bed of green.  Go in peace.

Antheraea paphia, South India small tussore moth.  Male.


Last moments of life - it lay there, moving feebly in the sun and breeze, and I marvelled at its markings.


I learnt from Bhanu that they are non feeding adults, with no mouth parts.  These Saturnid moths mate, lay eggs & perish, their job done.


I drew attention to the moth, to all who passed by - some nodded in politeness, others hurried on, not moved by this beauty, I wondered how.  An older man came and peered and nodded and marvelled at nature's creation.  A young woman's eyes lit up at the word "silk".

I will be on the look out for eggs and caterpillars on possible host plants in the neighbourhood - Terminalia species, hoping the moth's cycle of life continues.

Friday, April 12, 2024

Vismaya - the Peregrine of MRC Nagar



Vismaya - so named by Sanjeev - a Peregrine Falcon whom he had day-to-day eyes on; Vismaya, who came when Maya the Shaheen left, or so it seemed.



10th April sightings


Let me tell you about her, why the fuss.
CSK bus below
Bedecked in yellow
And most miss this raptor in plain sight, thus.

Off to the marsh at dusk and dawn
From this perch, she will be gone
Pigeon  stunned
with fist, not gun
Cleaned and eaten on the adjacent pylon.

A Chennai Life lived in solitude
Not even the crow dare intrude
Back north for the summer
She may meet a Tiercel partner
And hopefully eyases, they will together brood.

We wish you safe travels up north
And hope you come back, as you go forth
Maybe next time as a pair?
Chennai does treat you so fair
with enough prey through our winter for you both!





 

Saturday, April 6, 2024

Andaman Last Day - The Andaman wild pig

16th Feb 2024



I was a bit sceptical about going into a "zoo" - I dont like zoos.

But this turned out to be like a botanical park, with lots of lovely large trees, high humidity and a wild pigs enclosure.




Andaman Wild Pigs from the enclosure.  Does it still get to be called wild pig?


Turns out that Chidiyatapu is the place where The protected Andaman wild pig gets a new lease on life with captive breeding programme.  The article mentions 8,000 wild pigs on the islands.

The pigs are an important food source for the Jarawa tribe.

"Andaman wild pigs are smaller in size with shorter limbs and a more compact body compared to mainland Indian pigs and what makes them unique is the higher oxygen carrying capacity of their blood.

Unlike domesticated pigs fed a controlled diet, Andaman wild pigs have a diverse diet consisting of fruits, nuts, roots, and invertebrates. This variety provides a broader range of amino acids, the building blocks of protein, potentially leading to a more complete protein profile in their meat.

Hunting the Andaman wild pig is culturally significant for the Jarawa, an indigenous tribe inhabiting parts of South Andaman and Middle Andaman Islands in India. Traditionally, a successful hunt of the wild pig signifies adulthood for a Jarawa man. These tribes are legally exempt from hunting restrictions imposed by the Wildlife (Protection) Act, 1972, which otherwise attracts punishment of 7 years of imprisonment.

The enclosure provides a near-natural habitat for the species. Infants receive no specific external care. Generally, the female pig fed the young piglets which transitioned into normal diets as they grew.

The research paper also detailed the special attention given to diet so that the captive bred wild pigs maintain their natural protein values. The diet of captivity is diverse, including coconut, wheat bran, groundnut cake, jaggery, salt, tapioca, potato, and pumpkin, based on their nutritional needs. Leafy vegetables are added for nutrition, and water troughs are provided. The enclosure includes trees for shade, an open canopy area for sunlight, and soft soil for natural behaviours like uprooting and foraging. Deworming is also done every six months. "


There was a reptile corner with Salties as well.  Click here for more pictures...

It was 1030 by the time we exited the Park, and headed to the Chidiyatapu dive place - where we were to go snorkelling.  The sun was high, and rather bright.  The snorkelling instructors were from Kerala, bright and cheerful young lads, and some of us waded into the awaiting small motor boat in the cove, rounded the Munda Pahar beach, and went to the side of the islands where the coral reef was closer to the shore, and put anchor.

We we were told that the Crocs prefer the mangroves and were not in these waters.

Now Srinivas and Desigan were the ones with their phones and cameras - yet no pictures have they shared with me, and so I have no evidence of the beautiful blue waters, where  I went snorkelling, every metre filled with new delights, multicoloured fish, and blue and purple corals that seemed to be regrowing on what looked like a lot of dead reef.  

It was just beautiful - enjoyed thoroughly by Srinivas, Desigan and me.  Sekar felt uncomfortable and returned quick and Umesh never did get the hand of breathing through the mouth.

We also had a bunch of young people from NIOT - learning scuba...and we had to wait until they all got into the water, including a senior white foreigner.

We we were all exhausted when we returned - I think it was close to 3pm when we had lunch, and Sekar and I just stayed in for the rest of the evening.  

It was goodbye to Haddo in Port Blair, 


and hello to this airport installation.


Back to Chennai after an uneventful flight - to this last bit of mirth.
 

Friday, April 5, 2024

Andaman journeys - Lucky last day

Feb 16th 2024

Our last day at Port Blair was filled with action, centred around Chidiyatapu.  I loved Chidiyatpu during our last visit in 2017, when we climbed Mundapahar.  

This time, we birded in the reserved area and fields, below.  Almost as soon as we got off our cars on the hilly roads of the forest, we saw an Andaman Serpent Eagle, sitting in solitary splendour, quiet, still; while we humans buzzed around with hushed excitement, not wanting to disturb it, but yet trying to get the best possible sightings and photographs.  

Andaman Serpent-Eagle (Spilornis elgini) Brown, on brown.  What a beautiful sight!

They are smaller than the mainland Crested Serpent Eagles, more brown, and with a single tail bar rather than two.  

As we watched it suddenly dropped out of sight, gone in a nano second.  Did it spot prey or was it getting away from us?  It did not return to this perch.


Andaman shama (Copsychus albiventris) - sighted more or less in the same place as during my last visit!  

As I watched, enchanted through my binoculars, the Shama moved from one branch to another - and continued its singing.  Did not seem to mind us at all, it was too busy with its own daily routine.  When it had to, it flitted away into the undergrowth, and so the Shama show ended for me.

Up above, a lipstick red beak whizzed past - a Dollarbird - the same thing happened at Kalatang too.  But here, Suresh followed it to the same tree perch and photographed a pair.

The Dollarbird (Eurystomus orientalis), with the round dollars on its underwings - quite mynah like, though those beaks are a giveaway.  I read that they love the top of bare/dead trees.

These birds have a lovely "short" colour (to use saree parlance), with the sun causing the blue-black to shimmer.

We moved on from the hilly, forested road, to a track between farming lands.  It was past 7 in the morning, and the sun slanted in from above the nearby hills.  
A spider's nest created a lovely "kolam" on a wild plant.

By the side of the road, a happy jumble of weeds, including Touch-Me-Nots harboured grasshoppers and other little critters.
 


An Indian Wanderer rested on a leaf, that seemed eaten by caterpillars. I couldn't figure which plant - the leaves look a bit like my home jasmine plant.

 

Plume-toed swiftlets - we saw them everywhere, everyday.  But here, there was a huge cloud of them.  Squarish tail and white bellies - that's the extent of features I could identify - 10x binoculars notwithstanding - so swift are these swiftlets.  Collocalia affinis affinis is the Andaman subspecies.  It gets its name from a tuft of feathers close to the rear-facing toe - the hallux.  So, the toe is not plumed, but it has a plume, if you know what I mean.

While the swiftlets flew, the mynas were busy with their nest building.  I love mynas - they have so much "personality".  They were busy going in and out with sticks and twigs - no time for us.

I watched with delight.  Suresh clicked away - he has a whole series of pictures.

Jabili gently suggested we move on - to "walk a bit up an incline" - I later realised we walked about 200m! 😅

Monkey Jack trees all around.

We reached this point - that was Bada Balu beach down there.  


This was where I was convinced that the Violet Cuckoo had some violet.  We had seen it earlier, up in the canopy, backlit and dark - I was so unimpressed that I did not even add it to the list.

But here - this post by Suresh sums it up.



And this one by Desigan - 

 

High up in the tree was the Cuckoo
Violet he was, not green not blue
White barred belly
Seen in Andamans, not Delhi
A lifer then from Chidiyatapu.

 A WBSE searched for his breakfast, while we had ours. 




Tuesday, April 2, 2024

Andaman Day 6 - The Indian Navy's Samudrika museum at Port Blair

 Feb 15th 2024 - post lunch

Continued from here - the morning at Kalatang

The Samudrika museum is in Haddo.  It was less than 500 m from where we stayed.

Maintained by the Indian Navy, it was good to visit - there were sections on the origins, geology, the sea life and the tribals.



I used "text recognition" from the photographs and plates up on the walls - so this below are verbatims from the Samudrika museum.

PANORAMIC INTRODUCTION

Andaman Nicobar archipelago is situated in the Bay of Bengal, mid way between peninsular India and Myanmar, spreading like a broken necklace in the North-south direction. These islands are Located between 06°45" and 13°41" North latitude, and 92°12" and 93957" East longitude. There are 572 islands which can be distinguished into two groups geographically. Only 36 islands are inhabited by human beings, 24 being in Andaman group and 12 in Nicobar group of islands. Islands located north of 10° A latitude are known as Andaman group of Islands while islands located south of 10°N latitude are called Nicobar group of islands: Total geographic area of A L I Islands is 8249 sq km of which Andaman group of islands cover 6408 sq km. while Nicobar group cover 1841 km.

These islands are the summits of a submarine mountain range bring on the great tectonic suture zone extending from the eastern Himalayas along the Myanmar border to the Arakan and finally Sumatra and lesser Sundas. The northern most part of these islands is isolated from Cape Negrais in Southern Myanmar by the North Preparis Channel and the southern most part is also separated from the Acheen Head of Western Sumatra by the great Channel. There are two more deep channels - the Ten Degree Channel which isolates Andaman islands from Nicobar islands and the Somber Channel which isolates great Nicobar from Nicobar Is and the Nancowrie group.

FORMATION OF ANDAMAN AND NICOBAR ISLANDS

Far back in time, some 150 million years ago, molten magma might have oozed from earth's crust along the dilated ocean floor at the foot of a submarine ridge. The phenomenon appears to have taken a long time thus creating mid-ocean rise known to many Geologists as. 'whale back tumours. These islands with a few exceptions are volcanic in origin. We are in fact at the tip of a risen undulating lava plateau, the core of which goes deep down beyond the ocean floor. This hypothesis is in conformity with the expanding earth theory.  

The only live volcano in the Indian peninsula, Barren lies around 120 km. North East of Port Blair in Andaman sea (12°17' North Latitude and 93•50' East Longitude. This tiny almost circular island covers an area of about 8 sq. km and has a diameter of about 3 km. It belongs to general Sunda group and is believed to have born out of an eruption which occurred during the late Pleistocene period. Later in the course of geological evolution the prime giant cone got transformed to the present day Barren. The existing cone in fact, is the central part of the blown off cauldron. 

Contrary to its name Barren Island is fully covered with lush green forest and is inhabited by 13 species of birds, 10 species of butterflies, 09 species of insects, 07 species of mammals, 06 species of flies and 02 species each of centipedes and spiders. The mammals include a stock of feral goats, which have adapted themselves to the terrain and depend on sea water to survive in the absence  of a perennial fresh water source on the island. It is believed that the goats reached the island following a shipwreck in the region.

(Barren Island sounds totally fascinating!Erupted in 1991 and then even in 2020!  https://roundglasssustain.com/photo-stories/barren-island)

DISCOVERY

The Chinese knew of these islands more than a thousand years ago and called it 'yeng-t omag' in the first millennium. Ptolemy, the renowned Roman geographer during the second century called it "Angdaman islands '(Islands of good fortune).

I' T Sing, a Buddhist monk, named it Lo-jen-kuo' (Land of Naked). The great traveller Marco Polo called it 'Angamanain. In the 15* century, Nicolo Contri, the Italian traveler called them 'Island of God".

However, when the current name 'Andaman' crept in is shrouded. The Indian legends trace back the origins of the islands to antiquity. The name Andaman being derived from Handuman, or Hanuman, the monkey god of the epic Ramayana, who is said to have used the islands as stepping stones on his journey to Sri Lanka across the sea. The name Nicobar seems to be a corruption of a South Indian term Nakkavaram' (Land of Naked) as indicated in the great Tanjore inscription of 1050 A.D.

ABORIGINES & TRIBES

It is believed that the Andaman aborigines might have reached these islands very early in time, possibly by boat from South East Asia since they show a strong affinity to the Semangs of Malaysia and the Aetas of Philippines. However, a recent DNA match is indicative of direct link with the pygmies of Southern Africa. The Nicobarese must have migrated sometime before the Christian era.

The origin of Andaman aborigines are primarily hunter-gatherers, whereas the tribes of Nicobar are mainly horticulturists and herders. Sentinelese continue to be hostile to outsiders whereas the once ferocious Jarawas are gradually becoming friendly to civilized population. Onges and Great Andamanese have accepted the presence of outsiders. The Nicobarese have integrated well with outsiders and have joined the Indian mainstream. Shompens still avoid contact but are non hostile.


JARAWA

This Jarawas live in the reserve forest belt of about 639 sq.km area in western coast of south and Middle Andaman. The members of this tribe are now becoming frienaly. However, they continue with their primitive way of ife. The Jarawa live in communal huts, which lack a sleeping platform. They utilize naturally available material such a palm laves, barks, canes, seashells, corals etc. for their ornaments as well as for their dress. Their population is around 240.

ONGE

The Onge live in Little Andaman, as island 130 km. south of Port Blair. They inhabited in two settlements, one at Dugong Creek and other at South Bay overan area of 25 sq. km. The Onge differ from the Great Andamanese in language and in some aspects of their culture. Their settlement pattern and subsistence activities are however similar to those of the Great Andamanese. They have their local groups with well defined territories for hunting and collecting forest products.

Each member of the clan lives in his / her respective communal hut. This tribe still exists as hunters. Monogamy is their traditional social norm. Ones are friendly with neighbours and visitors. There are about 98 Onges alive today.

GREAT ANDAMANESE

The vanishing Great Andamanese tribe is settled at Strait Island, which is about 46Km. Away from Port Blair and has an area of 60ha. Present population of 43 are the remnants of ten clans of the once flourishing aborigines who inhabited the South & Middle Andaman and were first to be befriended. Mass mortality occurred among them soon on contact with civilized man through influenza, small pox, measles and sexually transmitted infectious diseases. Today they are considered perhaps the weakest ethnic group.

NICOBARESE

Nicobarese are simple people and maintain a simple lifestyle. A 'Captain' heads each village and the leader of the whole island is known as the 'Chief Captain'. Central Nicobar Islands were sometimes headed by lady captains often termed as 'Rani' of the island. Rani Lachmi of Nancowry and Rani Changa of Katchal ruled their respective islands with authority for a considerable period. The Nicobarese joined mainstream civilization a couple of decades back and boasts of employment in respected civil posts and private endeavours by their clan. Their present population is estimated at 28653.

SENTINELESE

Sentinelese are the sole inhabitants of the North Sentinel Island, which is 60 sq.km in area and located 34 km west of South Andaman. They live in complete isolation. They are hostile, semi -nomadic and their settlement consists of about 20 single huts close to one another in a cluster. Their present population is estimated at 39.

SHOMPENS

The Shompens inhabit 119 sq. km interior forest area of Great Nicobar. They are shy by nature and avoid contact with outsiders. Shompens live invariably along or around the perennial fresh water rivers, streams or rivulets in the forest. Shompen villages generally comprise 2 to 10 huts at a place. Their huts are constructed on piles, the height of which varies from. 1.5m to 3m. they use palm leaves and padanus leaves to thatch their huts. The floor space on the piers is used for living while the space below is utilized for their domestic animals. Monogamy as well as polygamy is a social norm. In each village the oldest male is the head of the tribe. Burial is their traditional custom fordisposal ofthe dead. Shompen population is estimated to be 398.


NATURAL ECOSYSTEM & WIDUFE

Andaman I Nicobar Islands with its vast coastline of 6 lakh sq. km. of exclusive economic zone and richest rain forests are the repository of an immense variety of ecosystems and wildlife. There are over 2200 flowering plants and 120 ferns (Gesides other plants), 58 mammals, 242 birds, 83 reptiles, 10 amphibians, 750 fishes, 326 coelenterates (corals, sponges, sea anemones, jellyfish etc), 407 crustaceans (crabs, lobsters, shrimps, barnacles, etc), 941 molluscs (limpets, oysters, clams, snails, squid, mussels, etc) 1500 insects, 62 spiders and scorpions, and others.

The biological investigation is a continual process and possibly many more species will be unearthed over time.

It is significant to note that a high percentage of these species and sub species are endemic. This is largely because of the isolated nature of the islands where there is always a great tendency for speciation among the island animals.

The flora and fauna of these islands have varied similarity or affinity to the of Indo-Chinese, Indo-Malaya, Indo-Burmese and Indian mainland regions.


TIMBER

(My heart wept at this title - living trees and forests, and all we can see is there use as timber.) 

Andaman Forest abounds in plethora of timber species numbering 200 or more, out of which about 30 varieties are considered to be commercial. Major commercial timber species are Gurjan (Dipterocarpus spp.) and Padauk (Sterocarpus dalbergioides).

Ornamental wood such as Marble wood (Diospyros marmorata), Padauk (Pterocarpus dalbergioides), Silver grey (a special formation of wood in white chuglam), Chooi (Sageraca elliptica) and Koko (Albizzia Lebbeck) are noted for their pronounced grain formation.

Burr and the Buttress formation in Andaman Padauk are World famous for their exceptionally unique charm and figuring. Largest piece of Buttress known from Andaman was dining table of 13' X 7'.

The largest piece of Burr was again a dining table to seat eight persons at a time.


ARE CORAL ANIMALS OR ROCKS?

Many people think that corals are just lifeless rocks but in fact corals are animals which grow in stony skeleton. The living part of a coral is a thin layer on the outside of the colony. The coral animals can withdraw into the skeleton when they are attacked or when they are just resting. Coral animal is called a polyp and is a small, soft tube which looks like a tiny tree with its branches swaying in the water. At the top of the polyp is the mouth which is surrounded by the finger-like branches called tentacles. The polyp nestles inside a porous cup like structure.

Corals are found in different shapes and sizes. In this photograph (taken at night) the colonies of polyps can be clearly seen to emerge and extend their tentacles to extract calcium from seawater to build their communal coral reef structure, and use their stinging nematocysts to capture tiny zooplankton delivered by marine currents.

Coral Reef

A coral reef is an assemblage of more than 3,000 living organism in perfect harmony, a magnificent manitestation of nature's ability to create, thread and balance various life forms in space and time. Coral reef ecosystem is the most intricate, diversified and aesthetically appealing ecosystems of this planet.

Andaman Reef Builders

Coral reef all over the world are the handiwork of Hermatypic reef builders. In these islands there are two chief reef builders namely Porites and Favia. The other forms present here such as farites, platygyra, symphyllia, ganiasprea and diplostrea (brain coral) are the associated reef builders. These coral create massive dome shape colonies creating shelters for other branching and delicate forms such as Acropora (Staghorn coral) Pocillopora (Thorny coral), Stylophora (Birds nest) and Montipora to establish.

All the massive and branching forms named above are sedentary and colonial. However, there is also a solitary coral, which belongs to family Fungidae popularly known as. 'Mushroom Coral'.

Coral Reproduction

A true reef building stony coral may be unisexual or bisexual.

In sexual process they breed together once in a year at a predetermined time after dusk, a day or two before the spring full moon. Male and Female spawn is released in millions of pink balls. These balls burst and the process of fertilization is completed. This process, at places, is so intense that the water stays pinkish till next morning. A large number of baby corals are released in the open ocean this way. After sometime these baby corals settle over a suitable substratum and start forming new colonies through asexual reproduction. Their morphological features change with environment in which they settle.

I saw these corals on the snorkelling outing from Chidiyatapu, the next day.

The museum had a great shell collection






There was another section on the achievements of the Indian Navy and their presence in the Andamans. It was getting to closing time, and so we left.  I strolled past the humongous Blue Whale skeleton that was kept on the lawns in the front.

There was a souvenir shop with a lot of shell craft - I wondered how shell sales were sill being allowed.  Is it not a protected item?  There were also tribal "dolls",  I wonder they don't have settler dolls.

As we strolled back, this elegant mosque caught my eye.

One of the beautifully decorated minarets.

As the sun went down, there was another surprise pre dinner.  Jabili showed us the Andaman Masked Owl sitting in near darkness under the roof eave of one of the homes!

It seemed smaller than the barn owl, and its facial disc was quite clear, and I am sure it was staring at us.

And so ended the day, and we were heading into our last day in the islands!

Oh, and there was an Inderjeet here too, quite different from our Rangat friend.  Rainbird Inderjeet was in the restaurant and was helpful - up to a point.  

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