Of legs, tails and beaks!

Start from here.

White-browed wagtail atop the ornate gate to the lake

'Tis the season, for the birds, tra la la la la, la la la la!

Its not only NRIs and foreign tourists who throng the country at this time of the year. Lakes all over India play host to visiting dignitaries of the feathered variety.  The regular resident birds dont seem to mind this intrusion, and they all seem to "hang out" together.

Well, thats the impression I got anyway at the Ghaibsagar lake, alongiside Udai Bilas palace, Dungarpur!

There were so many birds that I saw for the first time, that the reunion became quite a rewarding "birding" expedition for me.
White-browed wagtail, by the swimming pool

As we strolled around on the first evening we were there, sans camera, there were so many lovely sightings. Among my favourites were the only pair of Mallard ducks that stood out against the lake temple wall, as they bobbed on the water preening themselves. The evening sun bounced off the brilliant green head of the male.  The next day they were gone, probably to another lake?

Another breathtaking sight of that evening was the pair of White Storks that came gliding down to a tree overlooking the swimming pool, and perched themselves on a branch just above our heads. These birds are HUGE, and yet so graceful. Later in our visit, the manager showed me their nest on another tree, high up - an untidy affair. Obviously, the chicks dont have a fear of heights!

A common sight through our stay were the Purple Moorhens. they usually hung around at the swimming pool end of the lake, in the shallow waters by the shore.  Though they are common in lakes across India, this was the first time I was seeing them, though they have such a characteristic look that identifying them was a breeze.  Well, they are purple and do look a bit hen-like!

But this I have to add:

"Male has ludicrous courtship display, holding water weeds in his bill and bowing to female with loud chuckles."

That is how Salim Ali describes them, and I wish I had come across this behaviour!  Sadly, the moorhens I saw were solely obsessed with poking around in the undergrowth and scrabbling for food!
Purple Moorhen

The mystery of the spidery legs!

My most favourite "discovery" of the weekend was this cute and strange looking bird that we spied on the next morning. She (well she just looked like a she!) was so busy walking on the lotus leaves that she had no time for us! We were so close we could see those amazing feet of this bird, so clearly!

I had this sudden vision of Thumbelina on a leaf seeing the manner in which this bird hopped from leaf to leaf, staying afloat, and balancing on its spidery legs.

But what could it be?  I had not seen anything like this before.  There was no expert around and so I was on my own as far as solving the what-is-it mystery went.  I pored over my Salim Ali bird book, looking and marveling through my binos, checking out the waders and rails and crakes.  But nothing matched. There were some birds with spidery legs, but the plumage just did not match.

As my husband clicked away, he heard a shout of discovery, as I found it!  It was a baby, well not quite a baby, maybe a teenager, and so as with most teenagers was not "dressed" appropriately!!  Had me fooled.  So, here was an immature bronze-winged jacana.  If you want to see what the adult looks like click here.

Immature bronze-winged Jacana
On our return, while mentioning my prized discovery, Mr C Ramakrishna of MNS (aka Bobjee uncle) brought to my notice that the female jacanas are polyandrous!  Hmmm, thats interesting I thought!

While that teenager walked effortlessly across the leaves, there was this egret who was making rather heavy weather of walking-the-leaves.  Everytime it settled on one, the leaf would begin to sink, and the egret would then take off with an angry squawk, and try another leaf, with much the same effect!  Finally, probably out of irritation and frustration, it hung to one of the several lotus stems sticking out of the water, only to have it bend under its weight!

It was all quite amusing for us onlookers, but that was one unamused bird!

The untiring river terns

All through our stay at Udai Bilas, we saw these river terns, flying ceaselessly back and forth, swooping down into the water, and then coming up with something - a fish or frog? - with a strong call.  I saw terns chasing one another - probably one without a catch was trying to steal from one which had caught something.

Competing with the river terns in aerial acrobatics were the Pied Kingfishers.  Though I saw them first on our trip to Penchalakona, I really enjoyed their hovering and swooping displays over the lake at Dungarpur.  

River tern

A lovely picture of its black cap, forked tail and yellow beak.  We also saw dozens of them sitting on the shore, sunning themselves.

The picture below has an Indian darter (the big black bird), whistling teals (the brown ducks) and the river terns (smaller, white birds in the foreground).  There's also a single common coot, to the left of the darter.  The lake was actually full of flocks of Common Coot, and the Whistling Teal. I could not identify these ducks, (my excuse - they were too far away!) but our host Harsh, who's a keen birder, helped me with that one!

The Darter spent many an hour posing like this or similar positions.  Do they need more sun on their wings and therefore strike this pose or is it showing off, you think?!  We saw them in the water, with just their long necks and beak out of the water, and even saw one eating a fish.  
This picture above was obviously when the Darter got tired of holding its wings up!  Darters I noticed hang out by themselves, unlike the cormorants who seem to like company.  If I'm not mistaken, the other large bird on the left is a Grey Heron with that black crest and hunched pose.

The ducks that I did identify were the Spot-billed ducks, that were also in plenty on the lake.  
Spot-billed ducks

The yellow-tipped bill, orange legs and the little green markings on their wings helped me (I hope) correctly identify these birds.
The sunning stone

Close to the lake temple was some exposed stone.  It would probably be submerged when the lake was full, but when we were there it served as a good perch and sunning spot for the cormorants and ducks.

Great Cormorants with an egret, and coots in the waterNo effort and Nine new birds over a weekend.  Not bad for a beginner, I thought!  An experienced birder would have put together a more exhaustive list than mine below, as the surrounding hills were also full of garden birds, but I could not distinguish between all those brown warblers, prinias and larks.  

Here's my Dungarpur list:

• Lifers for me - Bronze-winged Jacana, Eurasian Wigeon, Mallard, Lesser Whistling Duck, Mallard, Comb Duck, Purple Moorhen, River tern, White Stork
• Little Grebe
• Red wattled lapwing
• Great Cormorant
• Indian Darter
• Large Egret
• Little Egret
• Pond heron
• Common Coot
• Grey Heron
• Black Kite
• Black-winged stilt
• Lesser Pied Kingfisher
• White Breasted Kingfisher
• Small bee eater
• Plum-headed parakeet
• Red vented bulbuls
• Jungle Prinia
• Tailor bird

And to cap it all, we saw this mama boar, with a very multi-coloured litter of babies!

The little known treasures of Juna Mahal

Start from here.

High up on the hill behind the Udai Bilas Palace is the original Dungarpur palace, Juna Mahal, which dates to the 13th century, and was occupied until probably the late 19th century when the new lake-side palace was built.

We came across this lovely lady (left) inside that old, now uninhabited palace.  Doesn't she remind you of this stamp (on the right)?!

It was a strange and interesting visit to the Juna Mahal.

A view of Juna Mahal from above

The views from the outside told of a grand old palace, seven storeys high, fallen into neglect.

I imagined, dusty, empty rooms that must have witnessed palace intrigue, romance and war!

The base of the wall in the courtyard was encrusted with dancing figures, probably taken from elsewhere?

As I looked up, the lovely intricate work on the jharokas still caught my eye.

All we needed was a wizened old Rajput sitting at the entrance, ready to tell us the legends and stories of days gone by - of the possible visit of Jalaluddin Akbar, the machinations of the British and the valour of the Rajputs.  

Well, that was not to be, and we had to settle for the incumbent owner - who in all fairness, did a grand job!
He pointed out the grand arched entrance through which rode horses and probably camel.  I imagined fierce warriors guarding these gates, and while all was quiet and serene within, there was probably a noisy market outside!
Arched entrance

We saw the stables and the wide avenue for the horses, overlooked by the mahal.

We took narrow staircases - just sufficient for one - up.  The stairways always curved to the right, we were told.  An intruder, attacker was at an immediate disadvantage since there was no room to swing his right, sword-bearing arm.

So, the Juna Mahal had the feel of a fort to it, more than a palace

..... until we reach the halls.
The Darbar hall and the living chambers - what a riot of colour!

Murals on the walls, painted ceilings, carpets, engraved mirrors, they were all there!



Hunting scenes

Grand processions....

Walls with little windows, for the queens to look out, and covered with a variety of motifs and themes.

It had obviously been redone, renovated and re-embellished during its occupation.  Certain panels were in better shape than others, but just like the Seraglio at Topkapi in Istanbul, there was  a cheerful lack of continuity or theme.

There was a wall embedded with porcelain plates

Panels with lovely embedded decorations
gorgeously colourful floral motifs 
Fading Krishna and gopi scenes

A peep out of one of the windows revealed the dusty town below.

... we emerged onto the roof the mahal.  Further up the hill, we saw the walls of the fort, and a white temple wall stood out in stark contrast.
We travelled up the hill - in four-wheel drives, to be greeted by the middday sun, and this sight of the town of Dungarpur sprawling out at the base of the hill.

I imagined the area in the 13th and 14th centuries, probably scrub jungle, with tigers and deer.  

Lost now forever.

Read about the birds of Dungarpur here.

A weekend in Dungarpur

I have lost my voice.  I have to either whisper or talk in harsh croaks like a dying crow.  So, I have taken to silence (much to the relief of my immediate family I can see).  Writing about my experiences of the last month seem a more dignified option to squawking.

A few months ago,my husband casually mentioned a weekend reunion with his old boarding school buddies. I was quick and gracious in my "permission" to him to go without me - I mean how many times have we wives heard the same completely incredible (but true) stories? Then he sent me the link to the place of the intended visit - Udai Bilas Palace in Dungarpur. Hmmm, I could put up with a few story-reruns for this, I thought to myself. And, so it appears, did half a dozen other wives!

And so, there we were one Friday evening, after a three hour ride from Ahmedabad at the gates of the palace, my first visit to the state of Rajasthan, my first stay at a palace and my first live glimpse of turbaned Rajputs..... not to mention my first live view of the Fevicol ad - you know the one with all the turbaned, mustached, "stuck" to the bus, on the roof, sides and bonnet?!

My first glimpse of the palaceWe entered and walked through to the lakeside, and in the fading evening light these were our first views.
The large Ghaibsagar lake, full of ducks - mainly spot-billed - cormorants, egrets and moorhens!

At the far shore of the lake was a large Jain temple, highlighted by that little hillock behind it.

As we walked along the lakeshore to our room, we saw this little temple in the lake.  To be visited by boat, unless you fancy a swim across, that is.

Our host was suddenly excited, pointing to the little flock of ducks at the base of the temple wall.  Amongst the spot-billed ducks was a lone pair of migratory mallard ducks!  Next morning, they were gone, and I didn't see them at all after that first sighting.

The lake view of the palace. Our room was in the wing on the left, entering through the archway on the lakefront.

As we were to discover, the palace had many hidden, winding staircases, narrow and steep, and one of these led to our room.
The stairway to room No 5!
It curved away to more steps! This is the view from the top of the stairs! So, despite all the wining and dining we did, the stair climb to and from our room was a good calorie-burner!

The only hitch was if  one had heavy or large luggage - we didn't - I wonder how they would have carried it up.

One enters near the archway in the background into this large and spacious room, with a lovely view - through the windows on the left - of the lake.
The charming bathroom, which also had a view!
Dropped our bags here, and set off to explore.

The central courtyard
These are the older parts of the palace. Dates back to the mid 19th century, we were told.  (Udai Bilas is actually the new palace.  The original and older one, now unused, is the Juna Mahal.)

I have not seen any other Rajput palace up close, but from what the others said this palace was a fine example of Rajput architecture of that period, with these lovely pillars, finely carved little alcoves and verandahs and intricate panelling.

The hihglights in green-grey are a local stone called pareva. I really liked the texture of this stone.  The night was a full-moon night, and as we women sat around the courtyard chatting and laughing, the moon came into the space and cast a lovely light on the stone.  

It was quite magical.  I wonder if the men actually noticed, they were so busy catching up indoors with horror stories of their past, that I think they just missed the play of light and night on the palace!
The Ek Thambia Mahal sat in the middle of the courtyard, and looked like it was surrounded by water fountains and a moat in the old days. On the other side, there was a little walkway across the moat, so we could wander around the base of this little one-pillared mahal.  And guess what, there were little ceramic, English looking dolls nestled in niches in the pillars!

If you click on the picture and zoom in, you will notice that each pillar and the hanging eaves (I hope that's what they're called) have so much workmanship on them, all the way up and down the structure.

New additions
The swimming pool overlooking the lake..
..and this absolutely magical dining table!
Quite marvellous!  Open to the skies, above, with a water pool in the middle, which could be still and strewn with rose petals or have water bubbling through it.  All quite magical.  And the food...I have not had such good rasmalais anywhere I tell you.  And the special local rotis - lets just say I ate a fair amount!  
And as we trooped off to bed, this is what we saw.

More, on the Juna Mahal and the birds of Dungarpur, to follow.

Continued here.