The little known treasures of Juna Mahal

Start from here.

High up on the hill behind the Udai Bilas Palace is the original Dungarpur palace, Juna Mahal, which dates to the 13th century, and was occupied until probably the late 19th century when the new lake-side palace was built.

We came across this lovely lady (left) inside that old, now uninhabited palace.  Doesn't she remind you of this stamp (on the right)?!

It was a strange and interesting visit to the Juna Mahal.

A view of Juna Mahal from above

The views from the outside told of a grand old palace, seven storeys high, fallen into neglect.

I imagined, dusty, empty rooms that must have witnessed palace intrigue, romance and war!

The base of the wall in the courtyard was encrusted with dancing figures, probably taken from elsewhere?

As I looked up, the lovely intricate work on the jharokas still caught my eye.

All we needed was a wizened old Rajput sitting at the entrance, ready to tell us the legends and stories of days gone by - of the possible visit of Jalaluddin Akbar, the machinations of the British and the valour of the Rajputs.  

Well, that was not to be, and we had to settle for the incumbent owner - who in all fairness, did a grand job!
He pointed out the grand arched entrance through which rode horses and probably camel.  I imagined fierce warriors guarding these gates, and while all was quiet and serene within, there was probably a noisy market outside!
Arched entrance

We saw the stables and the wide avenue for the horses, overlooked by the mahal.

We took narrow staircases - just sufficient for one - up.  The stairways always curved to the right, we were told.  An intruder, attacker was at an immediate disadvantage since there was no room to swing his right, sword-bearing arm.

So, the Juna Mahal had the feel of a fort to it, more than a palace

..... until we reach the halls.
The Darbar hall and the living chambers - what a riot of colour!

Murals on the walls, painted ceilings, carpets, engraved mirrors, they were all there!



Hunting scenes

Grand processions....

Walls with little windows, for the queens to look out, and covered with a variety of motifs and themes.

It had obviously been redone, renovated and re-embellished during its occupation.  Certain panels were in better shape than others, but just like the Seraglio at Topkapi in Istanbul, there was  a cheerful lack of continuity or theme.

There was a wall embedded with porcelain plates

Panels with lovely embedded decorations
gorgeously colourful floral motifs 
Fading Krishna and gopi scenes

A peep out of one of the windows revealed the dusty town below.

... we emerged onto the roof the mahal.  Further up the hill, we saw the walls of the fort, and a white temple wall stood out in stark contrast.
We travelled up the hill - in four-wheel drives, to be greeted by the middday sun, and this sight of the town of Dungarpur sprawling out at the base of the hill.

I imagined the area in the 13th and 14th centuries, probably scrub jungle, with tigers and deer.  

Lost now forever.

Read about the birds of Dungarpur here.