Showing posts with label Bharatpur. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Bharatpur. Show all posts

Thursday, October 4, 2012

Bharatpur may get more water

Good times ahead for Keoladeo birds with completion of Govardhan pipeline

Sunny Sebastian
The water woes of the celebrated park have come to an end
The Govardhan drain pipeline bringing flood waters to the Keoladeo National Park near Bharatpur in Rajasthan.— Photo: Special Arrangement
The Govardhan drain pipeline bringing flood waters to the Keoladeo National Park near Bharatpur in Rajasthan.— Photo: Special Arrangement
The birds of Keoladeo have perhaps never had it so good! The water woes of the celebrated Keoladeo National Park, listed as a heritage site by UNESCO, have come to an end with the completion of the 17.10-km-long dedicated pipeline on the Govardhan drain.
The much awaited Rs.56-crore drain project, taken up with funds provided by the Planning Commission under Additional Central Assistance (ACA) to Rajasthan, was formally completed this weekend. This Saturday saw the first flush of rain water from the canal entering the F 1 and F 2 blocs of the park. As the electrification of the pumping station is yet to be completed a generator was used to pump water, which heralded a new era in park history.
“This is a momentous occasion for bird-lovers and conservationists. The absence of a guaranteed source of water for the park all these years had been posing a serious threat to the very existence of the marshland as well as its status as a world heritage site,” Rajasthan Minister for Forests & Environment Bina Kak told The Hindu .
“We thank the Centre. The support it extended through sufficient funds would surely register in the annals of conservation history,” Ms. Kak noted.
Though the monsoon season has come to an end, the glass-reinforced plastic and mild steel pipeline, bringing the flood waters from neighbouring Haryana and Uttar Pradesh to parts of Rajasthan, is still expected to provide 30 million cubic feet (MCFT) to 40 MCFT water.
“The park is finally getting its due. The impact of water on the birds will be seen during the coming winter,” said conservationist Harsh Vardhan, who has been crusading for Keoladeo for long.
The Govardhan drain originates in Haryana, enters Rajasthan at Santruk village in Bharatpur district after winding its way through Uttar Pradesh. The seasonal water body finally drains out near Agra. It is estimated that during 35 days in the monsoon, the Govardhan drain pipeline can provide 350 MCFT water. “A dedicated pipeline was thought about in the wake of the bitter experience of farmers en route the canals elsewhere demanding a share of water,” noted Chief Conservation of Forests P.S. Somasekhar, who was in charge of the park in 2009 when the idea was first mooted.
The park had three to four extremely bad years between 2006 and 2009. “We were desperate for an assured water source other than Panchna dam. During these years, Rs.10 lakh on an average was spent on diesel for pumping sub-soil water to the depressions in the park in order to keep the fauna and vegetation alive,” Mr. Somasekhar observed.
Keoladeo, a place graced by the rare Siberian cranes till the turn of the Century, has been twice lucky with water this year. Only recently it started getting 62.5 MCFT water brought to Bharatpur town for drinking purposes from the Chambal river. For fully inundating its marshes — as it was during the golden days — where the heronry breeds during winter and keeping of boats for the tourists afloat, it needs a minimum of 450 MCFT water. With these two sources and a share from the contentious Panchna dam, the park now can expect to have its good times returning!

From The Hindu

Saturday, February 26, 2011

Its always a female to lure a male

They tried with Kartik the elephant and failed, but it seems to have worked with T7, the nomadic tiger from Ranthambhore who landed up in Bharatpur!

The use of feminine charm to lure the "errant" male!

Elusive Bharatpur tiger netted
SUNNY SEBASTIAN
Truant T-7 lured by the recorded call of female tigers

The elusive T-7 which was ruling the roost in the Keoladeo National Park (KNP) bird sanctuary near Bharatpur for the past four months has been captured by the wildlife authorities.

The tiger, tranquillised by a team of experts from the Wildlife Institute of India (WII), the Sariska Tiger Reserve and the KNP around 4 p.m. on Wednesday, was taken to Sariska by road an hour later.

Now T-7, a habitual wanderer who left his original home at the Ranthambore National Park for the Kaila Devi Sanctuary in the neighbourhood and later to Dholpur and Mathura in Uttar Pradesh, is heading for Sariska as per the announcement made last month by Union Minister of State for Environment and Forests Jairam Ramesh during a visit to Keoladeo.

Difficult customer

Curiously, T-7, which proved a difficult customer for the experts during the past eight days, was finally caught after it was lured by the recorded call of female tigers. “We have been after the tiger since February 14, but it proved very elusive. Then we thought of trying this technique,” Keoladeo field director Anoop K.R., who was travelling with the caravan headed for Sariska, told The Hindu on Thursday evening.

“We requisitioned recorded calls of the female, and once I received them through e-mail, we played it on Wednesday inside the park at four different places on loudspeakers. To our surprise, the tiger responded and appeared from the thicket of juliflora some 100 metres away,” Mr. Anoop said.

WII's P.K. Malik shot the tranquillising dart and the animal immediately plunged into the thickly wooded area. “It was a great relief to find him unconscious across the road,” Mr. Anoop said.

The team on the spot, which comprised Sariska field director R.S. Shekhawat, forester Narain Singh and researcher Shubheep besides Mr. Anoop and Dr. Mallick, soon transferred T-7 into a wooden cage. The cage has been used earlier to shift big cats —five till date — from Ranthambore to Sariska as part of the now well-known rehabilitation plan for tigers.

Except for one, all other tigers from Ranthambore were airlifted by Air Force helicopters to Sariska. T-7 is the first tiger caught outside Ranthambore to be moved to Sarika, which lost a tiger CP-1, last year.

“Now T-7 will be referred to as ST-6 or CP-6, the sixth tiger to be introduced to Sariska,” said Chief Conservator of Forests (Wildlife) Rajasthan P.S. Somasekhar.

“We may keep the animal in one of the enclosures in Sariska for two or three days before releasing it in the park,” he said. “We hope it soon gets a real call from the three females there.”


A happy ending to this story. Lets hope T7 now to be known as CP6, will thrive in Sariska!

Sunday, October 17, 2010

A tiger spotted at Bharatpur

Bharatpur is home to the Keoladeo bird sanctuary. The article below was sent to the MNS e-group, and I was immediately transported back in time to the winter adventures of the Mad Madrasis, our 53 hour train ride to get to Bharatpur, and our daily cycling (mis)adventures at the park.

And now a tiger, identified as T7 has been spotted on camera (but not in person), devouring a boar, and suspected at having killed a nilgai as well. He seems to be a maverick tiger, sort of lone ranger, outlaw type, having made his way from Ranthambhore.



The male tiger that intruded into the Keoladeo National Park bird sanctuary near Bharatpur in Rajasthan this past Sunday is seemingly enjoying his stay and is in no hurry to leave. The animal, now confirmed as T-7 of Ranthambhore National Park, which announced his arrival in Keoladeo with the killing of a blue bull, has over the past two days hunted a wild boar and a calf of feral cattle and fed on the former ignoring the calf. Though the bird sanctuary staff has been keeping a vigil, the tiger has not made an appearance before the humans so far.

“The tiger continues to be in Keoladar area of the sanctuary where the grass is standing tall. No one could spot it so far despite a strict vigil. However, we have now with us a set of 25 photographs of the animal eating the wild boar, taken with the help of a trap camera,” informed Anoop K.R., Field Director of the National Park, speaking from Bharatpur on Friday.

“The tiger seemingly consumed the wild boar fully though some of the photographs show a hyena in the background,” he said.

The tiger was on the run for the past fortnight after attacking and injuring over half a dozen persons at Mathura in neighbouring Uttar Pradesh. Curiously this is the same tiger, estimated to be around four years old, which had badly mauled a range officer in a village on the periphery of Ranthambhore National Park a month back. Even prior to this, T-7 has been shuttling between Ranthambhore Park and the neighbouring sanctuary of Kailadevi before choosing the long haul to the Rajasthan-UP border. Experts are of the view that going by its past behaviour the animal is not to remain in the 29 sq km area of the sanctuary for long.

“I have watched this tiger closely. He is not to stop here for long,” said Dharmendra Khandal, Director of Tiger Watch at Ranthambhore. Dr. Khandal, who confirmed the animal in the picture as T-7, said the authorities should devise a plan for shifting it to any tiger sanctuary, preferably not Sariska. He was dismissive of taking it back to Ranthambhore or Kailadevi as the former was already “saturated for tigers” and the latter did not have an adequate prey base.

“We can exchange it for a tigress from Madhya Pradesh. The animal can be shifted to Kuno, Panna or Kanha. This could be a gene pool exchange which will benefit the tigers from both the States,” he argued.

There have been reports in local newspapers about the Rajasthan forest authorities planning to shift T-7 to Sariska to join the already existing five tigers, relocated from Ranthambhore. “There are already two male tigers in Sariska now and another male is not of any additional relevance,” he pointed out.

There is reason for the authorities at Van Bhavan, the Forest Department headquarters here, and at Keoladeo National Park to worry as T-7 is a tiger with a past. The young cat has attacked a good number of people and has seemingly lost its fear of human beings. Keoladeo is a bird sanctuary where the visitors normally move either on foot or on bicycles and cycle rickshaws. “T-7 is no more afraid of the presence of humans. That is not going to help much as it has a history of attacking humans,” Dr. Khandal observed.
Its travelled a fair distance!


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Sunday, September 6, 2009

A belated salute to the vulture

http://www.ivad09.org/wp/

Sept 5th was Vulture Awareness Day, worldwide. I missed that date, but better late than never.

My previous posts on the vulture highlighted the crisis that this scavenger species face in India. A depressing situation to say the least. And to think that at one point in time not so long ago, there were plenty of them even in the cities!

Egyptian vulture seen at Bharatpur - Photo by Carthic
Egyptian vulture seen at Bharatpur - Photo by Carthic
Egyptian vulture seen at Bharatpur - Photo by Sripad

Why the worry, they are just scavengers aren't they?

Well yes, of the most efficient type. They feed on dead carcasses, and rid us of carrion and rotting meat. Their stomachs have some kind of special chemicals that do not make them sick when they feed on putrid meat.

Just imagine, if our garbage collectors did not visit even for a couple of days. Now that's the situation - piles of uneaten, rotting meat, spread of disease and the growth of feral dogs and rabies.

The BNHS (Bombay Natural History Society) gives the whole background and status of vultures in India and Vulture Rescue works throughout Asia to help this species.

An Action Plan for Vulture Conservation was announced by the Central Government in 2006. Captive breeding centres in some zoos, Non-diclofenac carcasses in special feeding sites, are being attempted along with the ban on diclofenac.

There's been some success reported in the captive breeding programmes.

The Reconciliation Ecology blog has a nicely written opinion piece on the success of the condor programme in the US, and what lessons we in India can lean from this.

I only hope that these pictures I have posted of vultures are not my last sighting of them.



Friday, July 17, 2009

A new bird in town

The Hindu : Tamil Nadu / Chennai News : Fulvous Whistling duck sighted at Pallikaranai

Photo by Skandan - Dendrocygna bicolor

See that brown duck, he's not supposed to be here. This is Pallikaranai marsh, a wetland in Madras, and that brown bird is a Fulvous Whistling Duck. According to the experts, this is a first sighting for Madras!

Its visit to Madras was captured by MNS member Skandan. While we were all getting excited and celebratory by Skandan's report in our e-group, the coots don't seem in the least bothered, and the black-winged stilts in the foreground seem to be largely ignoring him.

Poor chap, here he's come from some far-away land, and nobody to give him a half-decent welcome. Now, if it was Bharatpur, it would be a different matter altogether.

Well, I bring up Bharatpur, because I went all the way there, (along with Skandan and others), and we saw Mr Fulvous' extended family - (I assume they are distant relations, the lesser whistling teals.)

Its like finding Toblerone in the local grocery store nowadays, when once they were symbols of your travel to distant and exotic foreign lands. Globalisation, I suppose.


Photo by Skandan - Dendrocygna bicolor

So now, I need to learn how to tell a Greater Whistling Teal from a Lesser. The latter is below. Gorgeous aren't they?

The lesser ones that we saw in Bharatpur, did whistle a lot. They would take off as a flock, whistle away as they did a sortie and then land noisily back among the red azolla.

Photo by Skandan - Dendrocygna javanica

Photo by Carthic - Dendrocygna javanica

Well, its do with the streakings and the size. The larger, is larger (well, but naturally,), and also has more white streakings on its sides. The Fulvous Whistling Duck is supposed to have a distinct, dark black line down the rear neck.

So, now I need to go off to Pallikaranai and see if I find Mr Fulvous still there...after all, one has to be hospitable to visiting guests.....maybe a Mrs Fulvous has joined?


The day's surprises continued....

It was not done with. Skandan and Sripad, then also witnessed a David-Goliath kind of battle. The courageous black-winged stilts (David), took on a black Kite and then some crows, chasing them away, as they fiercely protected their little chicks.

Update - 20/7/09

Of course, the sightings led to much excitement, and many MNS members trooped off to Pallikaranai to see the new bird in town.

Chitra wrote in that she saw around fifteen of the ducks (so it was not a maverick couple), as they flew overhead, crossing the road, and heading north. She also reported that the marsh was teeming with avian life.
spot billed ducks, pheasant tailed jacanas, grebes, coots, BWS, glossy ibises, and the fulvous whistling ducks, along with the usual pelicans, painted storks, egrets, moorhens, purple herons, we also saw three bar tailed godwits one male in breeding plumage (reddish upper body), blue tailed bee eaters, ashy prinias, and black kites
I dragged my husband off and had a quick look-see this morning. We did not see the "stars" of the show, well in any case not well enough to identify...there was a distant bunch of brown ducks.

But I did not mind, because I added two more to my lifer list - Pied avocets and Pheasant-tailed jacanas!

The Pied Avocets have a lovely black-and-white wing pattern, which is captured in this photo by Abhijit Avalaskar so beautifully. I enjoyed watching them take off as a flock, and then come and settle down in the water. When they rested, they were in the background, and I could not see their markings all that clearly, but when they were in flight, it was oh-so-clear.

I cam back home and read a bit about them. They seem to have interesting feeding habits with their long slender upcurved bill, but they were too far away for me to observe this, but I did hear their "high-pitched kleet call" (Salim Ali), as they took off in flocks.


My first encounter with a jacana was at Dungarpur in December 2008, when an immature bronze-winged jacana had me foxed, with its spidery legs and walk-on-leaf spryness.

This time, I was prepared. There were these four spidery-legged birds poking about in the mud, with a long elegant tail, like as if they were in coattails! It was a dull and cloudy day, and these pictures dont do justice to a rather interesting looking bird, with a touch of yellow on its neck.


We then saw another two in the water, holding their tails up, as if they did not want to get them wet.

We wandered around for a while, seeing coots, black-winged stilts and dabchicks by the hundreds, and pelicans lining the electric pylons. There were so many bee-eaters, flashing past us, or sitting on the reeds. Then there were the large purple swamp hens and the smaller moorhens, the solitary purple heron, and a few white ibis. every now and then a black kite would glide overhead, and the ducks and stilts would all get a trifle nervous.

The cars and motorbikes zoomed by, honking impatiently and oblivious to all this lovely bird life.

About Pallikaranai

Pallikaranai is a freshwater wetland, situated in Madras/Chennai. I guess in the old days it served to keep the city's groundwater charged as well. Then came a few years of poor rain, and the city realtors and developers decided it was a jolly good idea to build in this marsh - how could we let such prime land go to waste.

On the other side, the city Corporation also decided to use it as a garbage dumping ground.

Choked from all sides, the birds fled. Citizens got together under various banners to reverse the trend, and there has been some success. The High Court has ordered that garbage dumping and burning in the area be stopped.

According to a report in the Times Of India, though, a High Court panel says garbage is still being burnt at Pallikaranai. The Chennai Corporation has been asked to reply to this charge by July 29th. Lets hope for the best.

Also, the remaining undeveloped areas have been notified as a Reserve Forest, and I noticed that the protective fencing has increased slightly.

These small steps have already brought the birds back. I do hope it continues!

Featured in I and The Bird #105.

Friday, June 26, 2009

Ranjit Lal and Bharatpur

The Crow Chronicles is Ranjit Lal's delightful bird-tale set in Bharatpur. Looks like he's visited again!

The Hindu : Magazine / Travel : Bharatpur resurrected

Bharatpur resurrected

RANJIT LAL
After a period of neglect and devastation, Bharatpur is alive with the songs of birds again…
Photo: N. Sridharan

The birds are back...
It’s a trip after several years — perhaps the first since the Gujarat earthquake. And then Bharatpur, once a mandatory annual excursion, fell upon bad times; all but written off like so many big-name banks today. Now tales of a miracle, w hich had to be checked out… The approach is not promising; the road outside the sanctuary, as I remembered, was two-lane and shady; today it’s a four-lane highway for which all the trees have been sacrificed. And as you enter, more signs of devastation: the canopy is all but gone, the landscape looks bombed out. But wait, this is all for the good, because what’s been blasted and uprooted out of existence — permanently — hopefully, is that rabid coloniser, Prosopis juliflora alias Vilayati keekar.

Heart-warming
In the hazy blue of early morning comes that heart-warming sound: the roar of thousands of waterfowl wings as ducks rise en masse, from the waters, like a Mexican wave getting airborne. Pintail, and common teal, shovellor and gadwall speed through the gossamer mists as their perennial extortionist the marsh harrier comes calling. They swirl and settle, only to be roused again within minutes. In the maroon azolla-covered waters, purple herons stand stock still, merging beautifully with the marsh grasses, and egrets dazzle in pristine white. A flock of bar-headed geese fly past, honking in that conversational way of theirs, and on a branch just off the path, a little cormorant yawns…

A trip around the drier sections of the park has less on offer — flocks of squeaking silverbills, pied bushchats, the odd shrike and that easy-rider the black-shouldered kite. Past Python point and the old hunting lodge and on to the waters of the Mansarovar which are teeming with birds. Just off the path, a pair of immaculate sarus cranes feed; and grey herons wing away with hoarse squawks of irritation. Here, the main attraction is those enchanting musical ducks — lesser whistling teals — bright-eyed and perky as schoolboys in their tobacco and copper plumage, showing off tints of blue-grey and dark grey on their wings as they fly in circles and splash down. They are resident ducks as are the naktas, or comb duck, which have a delightfully snobbish air about them, despite their ink-spattered faces! Purple swamp hens in their shot blue silks and size 16 feet and vivid red frontal shields and bills look like the ultimate viragos, and it suddenly strikes you that the birds here seem somehow more vivid and richly coloured than their compatriots in Delhi. This impression is reinforced by the rufous tree pie you meet at the canteen later; its brown and white is newly minted and rich, unlike the faded versions you see in Delhi.

Must-do
A rickshaw ride from the check post to the Keoladeo temple is another “must do”, for you get to see and meet all the main tourist attractions of the season: Sleepy collared scops owls in the date palms, dusky eagle owls glaring at you from the rims of their huge twiggy edifices, grey nightjars impersonating branches, dozing away the afternoon, a smirking monitor lizard, flapshell turtles, holding their heads high — all impossible to spot unless you had inside information, which the rickshaw pullers do. Again, the importance of actionable intelligence… We’ve been told that pythons have been sunbathing everywhere but don’t meet any this time. Also, we haven’t done too well with raptors so far, a greater spotted eagle on a faraway perch is all we’ve bagged, until another one flies over and circles around us, giving us all the time to admire its broad chocolate wings and wedge tail. Late breeding painted storks are still caring for ravenous adolescents, some adults squatting on the backs of their “knees” look pretty done for! We catch but a furtive glimpse of a black bittern, and of the three normally encountered kingfishers, the sapphire-spangled little (or common) kingfisher, is the last to mark its presence, but squats unconcerned on a stump, softly backlit in the early evening sunlight ready for all admirers! Darters strike their crucifix poses, one looking especially martyred as it changes the position of its head every now and then, and then starts preening.

There appear to be more Indian than foreign visitors trundling down the path and happily, they’re better behaved than I remember from past visits, even if a little bewildered by the variety of birds. Everyone is delighted that Bharatpur has recovered after the trauma of past years; it appears that one good monsoon and a little good sense has made all the difference. There are plans now to ensure that it never experiences that devastation again by arranging a perennial source of water so that both breeding and migratory birds can be happy. Better cross-border relations with surrounding villages have hopefully also been forged (villagers were allowed to cart away the hacked Prosopis for firewood), though there were the usual, unavoidable transgressions. Bharatpur is a man-made ecosystem, dependent on human management for its existence and well-being, with a helping hand from nature of course. We’ve seen what neglect and deliberate anti-conservation measures can do. It’s time we ensure we never travel down that disgraceful route again and that the plans for its eternal resurrection and happiness are actually implemented.

Quick facts
The Keoladeo National Park (formerly Bharatpur Bird Sacntuary) was originally created as a duck-hunting reserve for the Jat Maharajas of Bharatpur and is a major wintering ground for aquatic birds from Afghanistan, Turkmenistan, China and Siberia.



The park is open throughout the year. Best months are August-November for resident breeding birds and November-March for migrant birds.

Bharatpur is well connected by road from Agra (56 km), Delhi (176 km) and Jaipur (176 km), all of which have airports. The Bharatpur railway station is 6 km from the park.

It appears that one good monsoon and a little good sense has made all the difference.

Monday, March 23, 2009

Suraj Mal and the 2,000 fountains

15th January 2009, Bharatpur:

One evening, hungry and tired, eating hot rotis and dal, there was talk among some MNS members to visit Dig palace.  (Its pronounced Dheeg, and not dig as in an activity of Snow white's dwarfs).  Intrigued, my friend Raji and I decided to pile on to the trio who were planning to go, and so we became a car load.  

So, we decided, that 15th, post lunch we would set off for a half-day recce of this place.  Of course, like a  typical tourist from south India, I clicked away everytime I passed a camel cart, always amused at their superior stares.

The way was dotted with mustard fields in bloom, and it was a pretty sight.  Some of the others remarked that there has been a definite greening of this part of Rajasthan - it was more barren and dusty on their previous visits.



The roads were good and our driver was safe, and (thankfully) there are no hair-raising road stories in this account.  More camels, several unlicensed, made-up people carriers on a tractor chassis, and brick factories later, we arrive at Dig, a dusty little town, like any other, go past a fort wall, and around the bunds of a large tank with an impressive looking large building in the background (Gopal Bhavan, I realise later), and arrive at the parking lot for the Dig Palace.

We enter via this impressive Singh Pol gate, armed with little guide books picked up at the ticket counter.  The book says that this gate is incomplete - look at the bare arches inside, but still there's lovely carving all over the place, welcoming us to this sandstone marvel.
Singh-Pol. Spot the 2 lions atop the arch
The map below is from the Archealogical Survey of India ASI guide book.  The red arrows are the route we took around to the entrance.  As with most palace complexes, there are various buildings and complexes  added at various points in time, leading to much confusion to the first-time visitor.

Click on the ASI map, and keep it open as a separate tab - it will help you to follow my trail!So it was that we wandered into the main complex, the Gopal Bhawan, first.  I was struck by the elegance and elevation of this building.    And it was in good shape and well-preserved!  What little treasures we have tucked away in every part of the country.  It never ceases to amaze me, how we chance upon history even when we are not looking for it!  How old and tired our lands must be.

My mind wanders as I gaze on that building and think of Suraj Mal, the Jat ruler, who built this Bhawan in the eighteenth century.  My visit here, exposed me to a sliver of Jat history, (oh, so not everyone in Rajasthan was a Rajput?), and how the Jat peasants revolted against the Mughals, consolidated various kinships and established the Jat seat at Bharatpur under Badan Singh, Suraj Mal's father.  

Badan Singh, Suraj Mal and son Jawahar Singh, it appears were the significant rulers of Bharatpur, and it was a prosperous and growing prinicipality during the century when these rulers ruled.  
Gopal Bhawan - front facade
Gopal Bhawan
We entered the Bhawan by an inconspicuous small door, in the side. and were told to remove our footwear.  A caretaker/guide seems to be compulsory to go around the inside, I guess this is to prevent any destruction of the lovely interiors of the palace.

There is also no photography allowed inside, but I took a picture of this "bed" before I was informed of this.

Now, according to that caretaker Raja Suraj Mal on one of his military sorties into Delhi, looted this stone bed, thinking it was the Mughal queen's, and returned to be told that it was the stone slab on which the deceased Mughal kings and queens were embalmed!!  Do you think that story is true?!

A door took us into a gasp-causing room.  gasp-causing because the stone-bed room was bare, and somehow I assumed we would be led through a spartan place, with some relics here and there.  But no, we had walked into a lovely, well-appointed drawing room, with large hand-drawn embroidered punkahs adorning the roofs, carved wooden furniture and intricate trellis work on the side panels.  The room was two-storeys high, and carved panels at the first-floor height partitioned the royal quarters.  The trellis work was clever in that we could not see into those areas from down below, but when we went into those rooms, we could look down into the living room!  

In the middle, was a lovely marbled pool with fountains - Suraj Mal, according to me, should be christened the King of the Water Fountains.  There are 2,000 fountains in the palace complex! 

The caretaker spun us another story - which I have not been able to substantiate - pointing to the marble figure of a woman dancer.  He declared that she was the court dancer, a foreigner, who was so "taken in with the king", that when he died, she jumped onto his funeral pyre and committed sati.  He mentioned a name, and now I have forgotten it.  Any of my fellow travellers remember??

We were taken up a narrow staircase to the king's room, with its king-sized bed, large ornate mirrors and paintings of Krishna on the wall.  There was also a mysterious looking "hole" in the wall, which turned out to be a hotline to the maharani's room!

Then there was a large marble Indian style dining table - when I first saw it, I thought it was a giant potty - with lovely semi-precious inlay work, a bit like the Dungarpur table where we had enjoyed a magical dinner.

I musn't forget the old-style air conditioning.  There was a room with a contraption, which blew scented water vapour through a system of pipes into the royal chambers!  So, the caretaker told us, a team of workers would work ceaselessly to turn the wheel that dragged water through a fine mesh, mixed it with fragrance and sent it to the rooms!  (It still works, by the way!)
As we spoke, we arrived at the royal verandah, from where we were allowed to take a few pictures, looking out, and this is what we saw.  In the picture above, you'll see that the lower-most floor is under water.  This was the method used to keep the palace cool in the summer.
As we looked to our left, we could see the "Bhadon" pavillion - we wandered into that open courtyard with arches that you see, and I'll describe it to you in detail further on.

Delightful sandstone carvings adorned every bit of  the facade, and as we stood in looking out, it was like a time warp - there on the outer edge of the tank, the town roads were filled with vehicles with horns blaring, advertisements for Airtel and Vodafone, and men dressed in trousers and polyester shirts.

At the same time, reminiscent of times gone by, the water's edge saw women washing their colourful sarees in the Govind Sagar, and children playing around their mothers, in and out of the water.

I idly wondered if Raja Suraj Mal allowed the washing of clothes in the tank in the old days.

I was brought out of my reverie by the sound of Mr Shivakumar's voice, as he dryly commented that he would've been quite happy as the Raja's secretary!!

The Queen's quarters were not open to us, and that was more-or-less the end of our tour of the insides of the Gopal Bhawan.  The caretaker was generously tipped for his services, and as we left we saw another bunch of tourists go off on the same tour that we had!
Emerging out into the natural light, the vast expanse of the Mughal gardens and the fountains stretched out ahead of us, with the Keshav Bhawan in the distance.

The caretaker had told us a story about how the fountains would be filled with colour-coordinated water, so that different fountains would spout different colours.  From what I could make out (I'm no Hindi pundit you see),  he said something about divers going into the large water tank that was between Suraj Bhawan and Kishen Bhawan, and stuffing different colour pitchkaris into different pipes that went to different fountains.  Now, that tank was 2m deep and as wide as a building, and took a week to fill, and if all the fountains were turned on, the display would last only a few hours!!


Leading in to the gardens was this gigantic "swing" frame.  The story goes that this frame was brought back as loot by Suraj Mal from one of his raids on Delhi.  there is actually no swinging swing, if you know what I mean, just this highly ornate frame.

Marble hindola stolen from the Mughals
Next, we decided to explore the Bhadon pavillion -  that verandah-like lower level in the flanking pavillions.  
Bhadon pavillion

In the picture below is the view from that level, but more than the view what was mind-blowing was the detailed arrangement and design of water flow.  In the middle of the rear wall was a strangely inclined slab of carved sandstone, which we discovered was a chute over which water flowed.  The carvings would produce ripples and provide a form to the flowing water, which then went underground via a drain and came into a kind of cistern in the middle of the hall, in the floor.  But more interestingly, above in the roof, there were pipes with holes through which water would sprinkle, creating a rain-like effect!


The Chatri rooftop
Suraj Bhawan - the marble complex
Suraj Bhawan
Marked "4" on the map, Suraj Bhawan is a marble, single-storied building.  This was built by Jawahar Singh and the conjecture is that the marble was brought back from one of the side buildings in the Delhi Fort.  It has a very Mughal look to it, with carved arches, inlay work and patterned floors.
Decorated archways

The rooms were a bit poky though, and the ASI book surmises that this bhawan was probably a place of recreation for the ladies of the palace, and not a residence.

As someone in our group remarked, "Where are the toilets?!"







Behind the Suraj Bhawan is the two-storeyed Hardev Bhawan.  It was rather dilapitated when we visited, and there was a strong stench of bats, actively discouraging us from further explorations of its insides.  

I did like the roof, though.  That roof pattern seems to be a unifying factor for the various bhawans.  The book says that the Gopal Bhawan - now with a flat roof - also had a crowning "chatri" over it, but it has been ruined.  
Hardev Bhawan roof

Keshav Bhawan - the square pavillion from where you could hear mock thunder
As it looked - Pic from the ASI book
Then....

Once again, the water engineer of Deeg has to be marvelled.  See the fountains surrounding the inner set of pillars?  Along with that, there were pipes with jets circling the roof, and supposedly some of these pillars are hollow and water would be passed through them with such force, that a visitor would hear the thunder of the clouds, and feel the rain as well!!
Now...


Sadly, this was the state of the restoration work.  Ugly brick walls have ruined the aesthetics of the hall and the grace of the pillars.Keshav Bhawan & Purana Mahal. View from Shish Mahal, across the Rup Sagar. Pic from ASI book

The brick walls somehow destroyed our good cheer, and the group  of us sat and pensively stared across at the older parts of the palace complex, across the Rup Sagar.


Rup Sagar

The old fort walls and the dilapidated Shish Mahal suddenly took me back to the old crumbling yalis on the banks of the Bosphorus in Istanbul.  I was hit  by a moment of huzun, the melancholy of the Turks so well described by Pamuk.

The old fort walls
Shish Mahal

We lost our appetite for further explorations somehow, and headed back to our car.  Maybe it was the fever I felt coming, as well.  

Bats hung in plenty from a tree, and I stared in fascination as some of them, scratched their ears, all the while hanging upside down!  We stopped for tea and vegetable chaat, both of which were unsatisfactory.  the chaat was too expensive and the tea-in-a-matka, smelled of, well, mud!  It was probably our low mood.

As we returned, we spied more havelis in the towns in between.  The men stopped off in Bharatpur town, sampled gajar halwa (and brought some back for us - it was delicious!), went to a purana mandir in some back lanes, and then walked back.  We women were tired, headed back to our rooms, a warm bath and a reunion with the rest of the bunch who had stayed on at the bird sanctuary.  

How could I forget these beauties?

Meet Marianne and Pyrene, two sunny beauties I saw for the first time at Bharatpur, and I had completely overlooked.  Seeing the Blue Mormon at GNP last weekend, suddenly brought them back to mind, and I hunted through my 200-odd photos from Bharatpur.

And here they are!  They love to sunbathe it seems, and that suited me fine, as I could get really close to them to take these shots.  I was also double delighted as their common names actually were easy to remember.  (I actually didn't write their names down and I still recalled them!)  Pyrene here below is Yellow orange tip, 
Ixias pyrene

Ixias marianne

...and this is White orange tip!!  No crow, mormon, tiger or eggfly!  

And no butterfly mimicry to confuse me as well.

Thursday, February 26, 2009

Magpie-robin Menezes

Mrs Robin at the campsite
With due apologies to Ranjit Lal, who in his delightful "Crow Chronicles", named the soulful singer of Bharatpur thus. I was given the book by Chitra before departing for Bharatpur, but my son wanted first dibs, and so I read it (actually am still enjoying it) on my return.

For anyone who has been to Bharatpur, the book is a must-read, as all the birds of Bharatpur are characters in a fast-paced adventure set in the sanctuary.  The characterisation is delightful, with the main protagaist being His Excellency Shri Khatarnak Kala Kaloota Kawa Kaw Kaw aka Kaw the crow!

I digress though.  This post is about that perky, jaunty little black-and-white bird that you cannot fail to see in Bharatpur, with its upright tail and its sad song.
Mr Robin, with his tail up

They sat on tree stubs, hopped on the path, flitted about the central camp area, where we would gather for chai and biscuits...we would see them early morning, in the midday, and towards sunset as well.

Somehow, I always saw the bird alone.  I wonder if thats its habit, solitary.

We all got pictures of this little bird, because it did not seem shy of humans, and was quite happy to pose.
Carthic took this


While the bird itself was busy, cheerful and jaunty its song I felt was somewhat plaintive. Hear it for yourself, and tell me what you think. This is the song that we would typically hear late in the evening, say at sunset.  I took this little video clip as a memory of the song, so dont expect to see the bird in great detail...its there though, that little shadow flicking its tail!



I also learnt that a bird call is different from a bird song. And magpie robins have an enormous range of calls and some songs as well.

Song performance rules in the Oriental Magpie Robin, is the title of a research study done on these birds in Nepal. The researchers studied the dawn-singing of around five Oriental Magpie Robins, and found that the songsters were quite original in their tunes! They switched songs/motifs, interacted and communicated through these songs, and in general kept Messrs Bhattacharya, Cirillo, Subba and Todt busy and fascinated!!

Birdsong is a learned behaviour, so that would mean that the Magpie-robins of Bharatpur would probably sing differently from their counterparts in Nepal! Well, why am I surprised - an Indian from Kochi speaks differently from her counterpart in Madras, doesnt she? We just assume that this is not true in the non-human world, dont we?

I wish I had known this before going to Bharatpur....I would have listened more carefully to the singing of these lovely, musical little songbirds, and maybe come back wit memories of different songs!  For now, though, I only have this one tune associated with the robins.

(If you want read more about Bharatpur, or go to the beginning of this serialised narration, click here.)

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