Chendebji Chorten - Bhutan memories

4th May 2016   The MNS group were on the way back from Trongsa in east Bhutan to Paro in the west.     

It was to be a loooong drive, we knew, since just the day before we had done the west to east trip, and it had seemed never ending.  I am a nervous traveller on hill roads, and I did not look forward to the 100+km ride back. 

                                                             

3rd May - We had spotted this chorten on the way, and those painted eyes really intrigued me.  Painted on all four sides, they looked on calmly at all passersby, and was quite unusual in terms of what we had seen in Bhutan so far.

Around 2pm with a light drizzle making the road conditions worse, we spotted the chorten again, and it was decided that we would halt for lunch here, only about 50kms from our start!

This is the charm of Bhutan.  A little brook at every corner, with clear water, and for the most part, clean banks.  This little stream ran beside the chorten.

The view from the far side.  The main stupa, the prayer wall and the smaller shorten in the side.  A solitary pilgrim perambulated the chorten, muttering her prayers, giving us a smile as we passed by.

The beginnings of this stupa are interesting.  We we were told that it was built by a Lama, whose ancestors were Tibetan,  and modelled after the Swayambunath stupa in Nepal.  Hence the eyes, and the conical upper part of the stupa, which is more Nepali.

The story goes that there was an evil spirit here, who troubled the locals.  Bibek our guide referred to her as an "ogress", and upon return I chanced upon her name as Ngala dudm.  Its not quite clear what problems she caused, but she had to be subdued,  The chorten was built to symbolise her subjugation and the return of peace to the valley around.

A quaint little bridge that provided us with shelter for our lunch, and we were all relieved to be out of the coach and into the fresh air.

The friendly dog at the chorten

According to the Bhutan Cultural Atlas, 

"Lama Ngesup Tshering Wangchuk constructed the Chendebji stupa. Lama Ngesup Tshering Wangchuk was a descendent of the Bemji Choeje in Trongsa, whose ancestor is said to have been a Tibetan King named Trisong Detsen.

Lama Ngesup Tshering Wangchuk brought a model of the Chendebji stupa from Nepal, and this model is still kept in Gangtey Gonpa, which is located in Wangdue district. It is similar to the Jarung Khashor/ Bodhanath stupa of Nepal, which was built by a woman named Yum Jazinma (which translates to “the poultry lady”), who was actually the incarnation of a Dakini, and her four sons, one of whom being reincarnated as the Tibetan King, Trisong Detsen."

The large prayer wall, with prayers painted along below the roof

At the head of the prayer wall is a slate with the "Om Mani padme hum hi" engraving.

This was added in 1982, if I am not mistaken - the more traditional Bhutanese square chorten.  "built by the Royal grand-mother Ashi Kesang Choden Wangchuck" according to the Bhutan Cultural Atlas

The drizzle abated, and it was good to catch a view of the hillsides and the panorama behind.  If you click on the picture and zoom in on the stupa, you will see religious painting all around in little alcoves.

Reluctantly, we all bundled back into our coach to continue our journey back east.

'Big Yellow Taxi' feelings in Bhutan

Canadian song writer Joni Mitchell composed Big Yellow Taxi on a trip to Hawaii.

I wrote 'Big Yellow Taxi' on my first trip to Hawaii. I took a taxi to the hotel and when I woke up the next morning, I threw back the curtains and saw these beautiful green mountains in the distance. Then, I looked down and there was a parking lot as far as the eye could see, and it broke my heart... this blight on paradise. That's when I sat down and wrote the song

Couln't help thinking of this song whilst travelling from Punakha to Trongsa, early May this year.  This hundred odd km stretch is being widened and the WHOLE distance has been dynamited.  (It is part of the Lateral Road which goes much further east to Bumthang, and is also the main road to connect various northern and southern valleys of Bhutan.)

The hillsides are scarred with landslides and dynamiting and earthmovers work along the entire stretch.

From what the guide was telling us, it has clearly affected bird and mammal life along the road, not surprisingly.  Could it not have been done in bits, I wondered, (assuming it was needed in the first place).  The project has taken two years and is expected to take another two more.  Four years of disruption - will the natural ecosystem bounce back?

There are also concerns of the stability of the Himalayas, and I read now that road widening has been suspended after objections, close to Trongsa.  It was a good thing that traffic is sparse, because at some points the motorable stretch is narrow, and sitting on the cliffside is a heart-in-the-mouth experience.  Our driver Bhim was superb, safe and steady, and so cheerful as well.

Sustainable development.  is it possible?  How does one work it in fragile ecosystems?

Dear Bhutan, please don't pave your paradise.

They paved paradise

And put up a parking lot
With a pink hotel, a boutique
And a swinging hot SPOT
Don't it always seem to go
That you don't know what you've got
‘Til it's gone
They paved paradise
And put up a parking lot

They took all the trees
And put them in a tree museum
Then they charged the people
A dollar and a half just to see 'em
Don't it always seem to go,
That you don't know what you've got
‘Til it's gone
They paved paradise
And put up a parking lot

Hey farmer, farmer
Put away that DDT now
Give me spots on my apples
But LEAVE me the birds and the bees
Please!
Don't it always seem to go
That you don't know what you've got
‘Til its gone
They paved paradise
And put up a parking lot

Late last night
I heard the screen door slam
And a big yellow taxi
Come and took away my old man
Don't it always seem to go
That you don't know what you've got
‘Til it's gone
They paved paradise
And put up a parking lot

I said
Don't it always seem to go
That you don't know what you've got
‘Til it's gone
They paved paradise
And put up a parking lot

They paved paradise
And put up a parking lot
They paved paradise
And put up a parking lot

Bhutan Memories

Rufuous Sibia singing, in clear view.

Lifting even the lowest spirit.

Bhutan memories

Wild strawberry fields.
And we are all children again.

Bhutan memories

Birdsong Dawns.
Quietness.