Tuesday, July 13, 2010

July jottings

Nizhal's PWD park
  • Need to number the trees
  • Usha cuts palm webbing along with the paper, oops.
  • Arrive, and its all cloudy, green and overgrown.
Nice!
  • Spider eyeballs me. Annoyed at being disturbed.
  • Look at his hairy legs...or is it hers?
  • Scurries away under another leaf, and I decide not to disturb his peace.
  • Butterflies everywhere
  • Common lime, plain tigers flitting about.
  • These two caught, and its just my Sony Ericcson phone cam!
  • Two chital stags looked on curiously, nervous as well?
  • We are only labelling the saplings, boys, I wanted to say.
  • But the closer we got the more fidgety they were. And then with a leap and a charge they were off, beautiful antlers and all.
Anyways, the job was done, the rain held off, and the snakes stayed away.

Monday, July 5, 2010

Leopard in Kabini

Leopard in Kabini - Dr Alaganantham's Photos

May 2010 - Nagarhole park, Kabini.

Geetha writes:
a leopard sauntered across the path in front of our jeep in a very
leisurely fashion. Needless to say, the shutterbugs (Arun and Dr
Alaganantham) went on an overdrive!
On seeing the photos, Mr Ravi Chellam of ATREE, responded
Based on the photo-data base we have, we have been able to identify this male leopard as NHL-225, whom we first photo-trapped in March 2008 and also have had subsequent photo-captures. He seems to be a fairly tolerant and very visible leopard as we have photos of him from at least one other tourist.


I thought that was interesting - a leopard with a personality quirk?!

Wednesday, June 30, 2010

Friday, June 25, 2010

White nights on the Neva river - Gold, malachite and amber

White nights on the Neva river begins here.

We Indians love gold. We hoard it, smuggle it, wear it, gift it, flaunt it, like no other people in the world. Or so I thought, until I went to St Petersburg in Russia, last month.

Wherever I turned in this city of the eighteenth century, I saw gilded domes, gold painted decorations, and golden statues and ornaments. And the cathedrals and palaces would have malachite columns, jugs, engravings and what have you.

There were so many shops selling amber as well!



How did they not get stolen, looted or defaced during the revolution, I wondered. And where did all this gold come from?

Turns out that gold in Russia and Peter the Great, St Petersburg's founding Tsar, have a strong link. He encouraged the exploration and mining of gold at the turn of the eighteenth century in Russia. According to the Gold Miners Headquarters, he issued a legal document called The Mining Privilegei", in 1719, and this encouraged private prospecting and the eventual discovery of gold in the Ural mountains.

Of the monuments and cathedrals, we saw, the spire of the cathedral in the Peter & Paul fortress complex, is one of the earliest decorative uses of gold, (I think) in St Petersburg.

And then came the discovery of gold at Ekaterinburg, and malachite as well. I guess this was the time that Catherine II (aka Catherine the Great) reigned supreme.

This interesting tidbit I picked up from the jeweller Glimmerdream, as they traced the history of malachite:
In 1835, miners working the "Nadezhnaya" pit of the Mednorudyansky malachite deposit in the Urals exposed a malachite boulder of the highest quality that would eventually be found to weigh over 260 tons.
It took nine years to free the gigantic pocket from the body of rock without breaking it, and almost twelve years to bring it to the surface. Slabs from this find were used in the interior of the Anichkov Palace, as well as the Winter Palace where it was used to face eight columns and eight pilasters in the Malachite Room -- created by the architect brilliant "master of the interior" Alexander Bryullov in 1837 as a drawing room for Empress Alexandra Fyodorovna (Fredericka Louise Charlotte Wilhelmine, Princess of Prussia) (1798-1860), the wife of Emperor Nicholas I (1796-1855).
This same boulder also supplied enough malachite to face eight of the ten huge Corinthian columns that support the three-tier two-hundred foot gilded iconostasis (the icon wall that separates the altar from the rest of the church) of St. Isaac's Cathedral in St. Petersburg. (The other two columns are faced with lapis.)

Malachite Room at the Winter palace - 1839, showing the gilded doors as well
Malachite Room, again. This was the room where the Provisional Government based themselves, in the interim between the fall of the tsar and the takeover by the Bolsheviks The gilded iconostasis within the P&P cathedral

We did not visit the Catherine Palace in the town of Pushkin, but I read that around 100kgs of gold was used to gild the facade of that palace, too! That's crazily over-the-top, I thought. No wonder they had a revolution! The Catherine Palace is also famous for the legendary Amber Room. On my return, I have learnt that Russia -Kalingrad in particular - has almost all the world's mineable amber! Called Konigsberg at the time of Peter the Great, it was from here the Prussian emperor Frederick I gifted the panels to Peter. They were stolen by Hitler's Germans during WWII, and taken back to Konigsberg castle, and were supposedly destroyed in the fire that broke out in the castle in 1945. (The panels in the Catherine Palace now are replicas.)

Worthy of a Dan Brown thriller, is the mystery of the amber room. In fact, there is a book about it. The Amber Room: The Fate of the World's Greatest Lost Treasure. After reading the Observer's review of the book, I am sufficiently intrigued to want to go out and look for the book, now!


We saw gilded statues all over Peterhof in the gardens. These were originally lead, reportedly, and were gilded later.

But why was there no mass looting and plundering, when the Bolsheviks more or less took over St Peterburg, in 1917?

Were they as disciplined as John Reed makes out in his eyewitness account, "Ten days that shook the world"? Here's an excerpt from "The Bolsheviks Storm the Winter Palace, 1917" EyeWitness to History, that quotes John Reed.
A number of huge packing cases stood about, and upon these the Red Guards -and soldiers fell furiously, battering them open with the butts of their rifles, and pulling out carpets, curtains, linen, porcelain plates, glassware.

One man went strutting around with a bronze clock perched on his shoulder; another found a plume of ostrich feathers, which he stuck in his hat. The looting was just beginning when somebody cried, ‘Comrades! Don't touch anything! Don't take anything! This is the property of the People!’ Immediately twenty voices were crying, ‘Stop! Put everything back! Don't take anything! Property of the People!’ Many hands dragged the spoilers down. Damask and tapestry were snatched from the arms of those who had them; two men took away the bronze clock. Roughly and hastily the things were crammed back in their cases, and self-appointed sentinels stood guard. It was all utterly spontaneous. Through corridors and up stair-cases the cry could be heard growing fainter and fainter in the distance, ‘Revolutionary discipline! Property of the People.’

We crossed back over to the left entrance, in the West wing. There order was also being established. ‘Clear the Palace!’ bawled a Red Guard, sticking his head through an inner door. ‘Come, comrades, let's show that we're not thieves and bandits. Everybody out of the Palace except, the Commissars, until we get sentries posted.’
Two Red Guards, a soldier and an officer, stood with revolvers in their hands. Another soldier sat at a table behind them, with pen and paper. Shouts of ‘All out! All out!’ were heard far and near within, and the Army began to pour through the door, jostling, expostulating, arguing. As each man appeared he was seized by the self-appointed committee, who went through his pockets and looked under his coat. Everything that was plainly not his property was taken away, the man at the table noted it on his paper, and it was carried into a little room.
Or was it, as noted in Wikipedia
"The Palace was pillaged and devastated from top to bottom by the Bolshevik[s]...Priceless pictures were ripped from their frames by bayonets. Packed boxes of rare plate and china...were broken open and the contents smashed or carried off. The library....was forced open and ransacked.....the Tsaritsa's salon, like all other rooms, was thrown into chaos. The colossal crystal lustre, with its artfully concealed music, was smashed to atoms. Desks, pictures, ornaments—everything was destroyed."
The enormous size of the gilded domes and statues possibly saved them from looters? Ironically, the personal collections and the decorative idiosyncracies of the tsars and tsaritsas of the Romanov empire, now serve the people of Russia, bringing in foreign tourists by the busload, and earning huge amounts for the country, as we all collectively gawk at a lifestyle that was.

The vulnerable Great Indian Bustard

Today's paper and this news item in the BBC a couple of days ago, show the vulnerability of the Great indian Bustard in India today.

A report on the Jaisalmer Desert National Park by Mr Ramanan, had highlighted this bird.

Great Indian Bustard - Photo by Mr Ramanan

BBC News - Concern over plans to downgrade Indian national park reports that there is pressure to de-classify the Karera bird sanctuary in Madhya Pradesh. It is an interesting article as it documents the man-creature conflict in India, so typical of the situation for all birds and animals that cannot survive with us.
The authorities in the Indian state of Madhya Pradesh are under pressure to declassify a national park because much of its rare bird life is believed to have been lost forever. Locals eager to have free use of the land complain the park's special status prevents them from doing so.

But critics say any move to downgrade Karera bird sanctuary - created in 1981, principally to help save the Great Indian bustard - would be an admission that conservation efforts there have failed.

If ratified by the central government and the Supreme Court, Karera will become the country's first national park to lose its official recognition.

Conjugal success
The residents of 33 villages in the 200 sq-km (124 sq-mile) sanctuary argue the Great Indian bustard has not been seen in more than 10 years because of "habitat destruction".

Villagers say no rare wildlife exists any more. The Great Indian bustard is one of the world's heaviest flying birds. It lost out to the peacock when India's national bird was decided - reportedly because of its tricky spelling and the peacock's more attractive looks. Apart from Madhya Pradesh, it is found in the states of Rajasthan, Maharashtra and Gujarat.

At Dihaliya, a village on the banks of Dihaliya lake, villagers explain how the sanctuary has affected their lives and livelihoods. They are not allowed to buy, sell or make any significant changes to the land and cannot mine it, or carry out any kind of construction work - even building irrigation canals is not easy.

Jawahar Singh, the village head, says there are more than 35,000 people living in villages adjoining the sanctuary. "Our sons cannot find brides as they cannot raise money by selling land if required," he said. Manoj Siwari, from Phatehpur village, is 25 years old and says he has been turned down five times by prospective brides. He blames the national park for his failure to marry. "Please declassify this sanctuary so that we can organise our lives," he said.

"There are no rare birds here any more. We are being held to ransom unnecessarily. During marriage discussions, people criticise us for our inability to raise money. It is not fair."

Hostility
Great Indian bustards were once found in great numbers in Karera - an area characterised by semi-arid grasslands. In an attempt to save the 15 or so birds left, the area was classified as a sanctuary in 1981. The population grew for a few years to up to 40 birds, but it has since dropped steadily and not a single Great Indian bustard has been sighted since 1994. In view of this, the state government has sent a proposal to the central government to declassify the sanctuary.

GK Sharma, a forest officer, says villagers' hostility has affected conservation efforts.
"When we built watch towers, they tore them down. They do not kill the animals but do not report any illegal activity either. It was difficult to build relations with the residents as they felt forest officers were friends of the birds and therefore were their enemies."

However, it was not always like this. Asad Rahmani, director of Bombay Natural History Society in Mumbai, worked for more than six years in the sanctuary in the late 1980s and early 1990s. "The bird does not mind farming land and there was no poaching in this area," he said.

"But constant habitat destruction is the main reason for its disappearance. We had given a detailed plan to protect it but nothing was done. In fact the figures of 35 to 40 bustards were inflated."

'Fix responsibility'
The bird prefers walking to flying and requires undisturbed nesting areas. If the egg or offspring do not survive, bustards are known to desert that particular area - if the offspring survives, they will return to the same place.

Mechanised farming and over-grazing by cattle and sheep - combined with increasing human encroachment - are the main reasons cited for the bird's habitat being disturbed.

The bird has disappeared over a period of time. Its disappearance from the sanctuary is a cause of concern, wildlife experts say, and is an indicator of the health of the country's grassland ecosystems. One of the recommendations in Dr Rahmani's plan is to "fix responsibility" for the disappearance of the bird. Activists say those to blame should be held to account.

"The bird has disappeared over a period of time. Something could have been done earlier. It is impossible to hold any one person responsible," says Alok Kumar, chief conservator of forests.
Dr Rahmani suggests protecting pockets of about 200 hectares in different parts of the park to rebuild a habitat after it loses its special status - in which only traditional farming methods not resisted by the birds would be allowed.

The conflict between conservation and promoting the needs of farmers has intensified because of government apathy over the years. The vast expanse of the Karera bird sanctuary looks parched and barren in mid-summer. Herds of cattle and sheep graze every few kilometres. This used to be the bustards' breeding season in Karera but not any more.

The golden bird gave up on this home many years ago. It is a scenario which would be a tragedy if repeated in India's other national parks - home to some of the world's most endangered animals, including the tiger.
An article in today's Chennai edition of Times of India reported that Andhra irrigation projects spell doom for birds at the Rollapadu sanctuary in AP

Andhra Pradesh’s only bustard sanctuary located at Rollapadu in Kurnool district could soon become history with the population of this bird species dropping from 60 to just 10. In fact, in the last three years alone, the Rollapadu sanctuary which was one among the best of the six bustard sanctuaries in India for long, has lost over a dozen of these endangered birds to government schemes.
Wildlife experts point out that the change in landscape of the sanctuary from grassland to wetland due to populist irrigation schemes of the government, has led to this serious loss. With paddy fields replacing groundnut plants around the sanctuary, the habitat is no longer conducive for the great Indian bustard that is accustomed to stonestrewn, sparsely vegetated land, they say. Even unwarranted afforestation near the sanctuary, spread roughly over 9 sq km, has added to the mess. Speculations are that many of these birds have migrated to the sanctuary in neighbouring Karnataka while those left in the state have stopped breeding due to lack of a favourable habitat. Either way, the state is fast losing its rich bustard population and might soon be left with none.
“The first damage was done when a reservoir was built close to the sanctuary as part of the Telugu-Ganga project about eight years ago. That changed the area into a wetland and villagers started paddy cultivation around the place,” said C Srinivasulu, associate professor of zoology, Osmania University who has worked on the subject at Rollapadu. He added, “The change in cropping pattern wiped out all groundnut trees that usually provide fodder for bustards.” Prof
Srinivasulu fears that at this rate, Rollapadu could soon join the list of sanctuaries such as Nanaj in Maharashtra and Karera in Madhya Pradesh that have lost all their bustards over the years. For some enthusiasts it is the unnecessary afforestation programmes of the government that have led to this destruction of bustard habitat.
They claim that budgets earmarked for such plantation drives are “randomly” spent by the department without much thought given to such matters. “Saplings of several fastgrowing trees have been planted around the sanctuary only because the department had to somehow spend the money sanctioned for the same,” said a member of the World Wildlife Foundation’s AP chapter adding, “This has raised the groundwater level of the area and changed the landscape. Consequently, we have lost many bustards.”
A less popular theory about the dwindling number of bustards is the increase in black buck population in Rollapadu.

In March 2010, a couple of MNS members had visited Rollapadu and enjoyed the grasslands. They did see plenty of blackbuck, but also wolves, several raptors and other bird life.


In India, with great difficulty, land is designated as sanctuary land, and it would be a complete and utterly retrogade step to de-classify these lands, don't you think?

Does it not make more sense to try to revive these areas, rather than de-classify them?

28th June update:
============

Jairam Ramesh has appealed to the Gujarat government to increase their efforts in saving the grasslands of Adbassa in Kutch, Gujarat for the sake of the bustard.

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