Braiding Sweetgrass

 In my To-read list now - “Braiding Sweetgrass: Indigenous Wisdom, Scientific Knowledge, and the Teachings of Plants” - a book of essays by scientist and SUNY Professor Robin Wall Kimmerer.   The book has sold 1.4 million copies, according to the NY Times article - You Don’t Have to Be Complicit in Our Culture of Destruction.  An article that was shared by Dr Ravi Chellam on the MNS group.

Of late, I have been listening to arguments about science vs other modes of enquiry - and how not to slide into what I would call old-fashioned superstition and blind belief, while at the same time being open to older traditions of wisdom and learning. 

She says - "sometimes what we call conventional Western science is in fact scientism. Scientism being this notion that Western science is the only way to truth. It’s a powerful way to truth, but there are other ways, too. Traditional ecological knowledge, Indigenous science, is a more holistic way of knowing. In Western science, for often very good reasons, we separate our values and our knowledge. In Indigenous science, knowledge and values are always coupled. It’s an ethically driven science."

I came across a similare dialogue between Amitav Ghosh and Dr Annu Jalais at the Kolkata Literary Festival, '23, and since it was in the context of Sundarbans, it felt very relevant and immediate for me.  So tiger charmers, masks at the back of the head, vaccinations...and I must say I am more in line with Dr Annu in not dissing science.  

 

But the telling point that Amitav Ghosh makes about how all countries seem to be still in a colonial mindset of trying to control and consume, despite the glaring evidence of climate change, finds an echo in Prof Kimmerer's response as well, I felt.

 Q:  I see the success of your book as part of this mostly still hidden but actually huge, hopeful groundswell of people — and I mean regular people, not only activists or scientists — who are thinking deeply and taking action about caring for the earth. But that groundswell isn’t part of the story that we’re usually told about climate change, which tends to be much more about futility. What are the keys to communicating a sense of positivity about climate change and the future that’s counter to the narrative we usually get? 

Ans:  The story that we have to illuminate is that we don’t have to be complicit with destruction. That’s the assumption: that there are these powerful forces around us that we can’t possibly counteract. The refusal to be complicit can be a kind of resistance to dominant paradigms, but it’s also an opportunity to be creative and joyful and say, I can’t topple Monsanto, but I can plant an organic garden; I can’t counter fill-in-the-blank of environmental destruction, but I can create native landscaping that helps pollinators in the face of neonicotinoid pesticides. (Which research has suggested is especially harmful to wild bees and bumblebees.)

 So much of what we think about in environmentalism is finger-wagging and gloom-and-doom, but when you look at a lot of those examples where people are taking things into their hands, they’re joyful. That’s healing not only for land but for our culture as well — it feels good. It’s also good to feel your own agency. We need to feel that satisfaction that can replace the so-called satisfaction of buying something. Our attention has been hijacked by our economy, by marketers saying you should be paying attention to consumption, you should be paying attention to violence, political division. What if we were paying attention to the natural world? I’ve often had this fantasy that we should have Fox News, by which I mean news about foxes. What if we had storytelling mechanisms that said it is important that you know about the well-being of wildlife in your neighborhood? That that’s newsworthy? This beautiful gift of attention that we human beings have is being hijacked to pay attention to products and someone else’s political agenda. Whereas if we can reclaim our attention and pay attention to things that really matter, there a revolution starts.

Being creative and joyful in our interactions with the natural world - something I recall that Garima Bhatia and I spoke about when we met a couple of months ago, and that organisations like NCF and Palluyir Trust, and MNS also are doing.

Saltwater crocodiles - My Sundarban encounters with these deadly aquatic predators

On our recent visit to the Sundarbans, we saw several of these large crocodiles basking in the sun, including some baby ones.  I marvelled at these creatures - so still and yet so deadly.  Nice to see from a respectful distance, I thought, and much nicer seeing them like this than in the Crocodile Bank, all one on top of the other.  

This article from Roundglass Sustain describes it so well.  Names that are familiar to me now, and carry a meaning and memory - Sajnekhali sanctuary, Dobanki camp.

Saltwater Crocodile: Dragons of the Sundarbans Swamps

18 Aug 2022

By Radhika Raj

Basking in the sun, the saltwater crocodile is a study in stillness but once it enters the brackish waters of the Sundarbans, it is the top aquatic predator

When the diesel-powered engine of our rickety, wooden bhotbhoti boat revs up in the Sundarbans, its loud, hammering “bhot-bhot-BHOT” sound echoes through the silent mangrove forest. As we ride noisily along sea-green channels, a chital spots us from a distance and scurries into the mangrove thickets. A lesser adjutant stork on the sandy shores takes flight in alarm. But one creature remains unperturbed by our presence — the enormous saltwater crocodile (Crocodylus porosus).

Photo by Sekar of the first baby we spotted, that seemed to look at us with curiosity.

 

Quickly into the water when we got too close....

...bubbles and a snout.

This description from Radhika says it the best - "We spot our first one within a few hours of entering Sajnekhali Wildlife Sanctuary, a protected area within the Sundarbans Tiger Reserve. It’s a slow December (in our case January) morning and the tide is low. The waters have receded to reveal wet, glistening shores with spike-like pneumatophores jutting out of the sand. On an exposed bank, a large saltwater crocodile is sprawled — caked in mud, and still as a statue. Despite our motorboat’s ample warning, it doesn’t bat an eyelid. I observe its armour-like scaly skin, the bony ridges on its jagged back, and massive tail. With two rows of triangular spikes the tail is used to propel the creature out of the water. Its jaw is shut tight, but pointy yellow teeth jut out, making it look like it’s grinning, or perhaps, mocking us."

 “It’s smiling at you,” laughs Ramkrishna Mondal, my guide. We spot several more saltwater crocodiles — all suspiciously still.  (Our guides were  Prosun, Manoj Mondal and Bavutosh.)

The saltwater crocodile is a skilled aquatic predator. Its eyes are adapted to see underwater, and it has excellent night vision so the nocturnal reptile can hunt at night. The channels of the Sundarbans harbour a healthy population of the estuarine or saltwater crocodiles which thrive in this unique ecosystem.

The top aquatic predator

The saltwater crocodile is the largest and heaviest living reptile in the world. Males can grow up to 20 feet and weigh over 1,000 kg. The largest one recorded in India, in Bhitarkanika National Park, Odisha, was 22-feet long. Its skull is displayed in the national park’s museum. Anecdotal information places the largest known saltwater crocodile from India in the Sundarbans. In his book, The Last of the Ruling Reptiles: Alligators, Crocodiles, and Their Kin, WT Neill writes about a “Bengal Giant” — a saltwater crocodile he saw towards the end of British rule, which he claimed was at least 30-feet-long.

The species is distinguished from its cousins — gharials, muggers, caimans — by its high tolerance for salinity. Unlike other freshwater species, the saltwater crocodile thrives along brackish mangrove channels (though it is also known to inhabit freshwater habitats) and can swim far out to sea. In the Sundarbans, it is the top aquatic predator, beating serious contenders such as the river shark, king cobra, python and semi-aquatic Bengal tiger. Saltwater crocodiles are not picky eaters and will feed on anything they can get their jaws on — fish, birds, buffaloes, wild boar, rhesus macaques, deer, crabs, even snakes. In water, it can even overpower a swimming tiger. In 2011, an instance of a tiger killed by an estuarine crocodile was reported at Dobanki camp of Sundarbans Tiger Reserve. “Some forest officials who saw them fight claim that it was the most ferocious battle in the history of the park,” says Mondal. But these crocodiles don’t pick a fight unless absolutely necessary, he adds. They are ambush predators and mostly lie low. They often lurk on the river’s edges, with only nose and eyes, located atop the skull, above the surface. When an unsuspecting prey stops by, the crocodile explodes out of the water, grabs and snaps its neck, drags and drowns it, before eating it. Though a crocodile has strong jaws, it cannot chew well. Instead, it violently rotates its body in the water with the prey firmly in its mouth, dismembering it. The infamous “death roll” is now a popular television trope on sensational wildlife shows. About thirty minutes later, I see another saltwater crocodile basking by the exposed, umbrella-shaped stilt roots of a garjan — oblivious to the squeals and furious clicking from neighbouring tourist boats.

Creature of the tide

Later, over a phone call, expert wildlife biologist BC Choudhury explains why we saw so many crocodiles that day. Crocodiles are cold blooded reptiles that thermoregulate by sunning themselves. Adults need to maintain a stable body temperature in the preferred range of 30–32 degrees C. In the summers, crocodiles bask in the morning and evening — retreating to the water when the sun is sharp. But in winter, they bask from morning until the sun sets, warming their bodies as much as they can, Choudhury expands.

However, in a forest that is swallowed by tides twice a day, they wait for that ideal combination of low tide and great sunlight, and make the most of it. We had been lucky to catch them on such a perfect day. No wonder they were everywhere. “The life of a saltwater crocodile, and everything that lives in the Sundarbans, is ruled by the tide,” Choudhury reminds me. In 2012, he conducted the first and only survey on saltwater crocodiles in that habitat, with a schedule that depended heavily on the tides, and the tiger. It is impossible to travel through the Sundarbans after sunset, when a tiger may use the cover of the night to attack. The researchers identified that the mudflats are exposed for six hours a day in January, since that’s when the crocodiles spend the maximum time basking on the shores.

Of gods and myths

Back on the boat, a mighty saltwater crocodile has caught our attention. As we approach the panchmukhani mohona, a confluence of five channels, we see yet another one, basking on a sandbar. It’s the largest I’ve seen yet — a dominant male, says Mondal, easily 17-18 feet-long. “Meet Kalu Khan,” he says pointing at its left, front foot which is missing a toe. “It is so big, that local guides named it after the demi-god Kalu Rai. He lost his toe several years ago,” he adds.

Travelling through the Sundarbans I notice a deep, intertwined relationship that local cultures share with the wilderness. Mondal tells me how most fishermen and honey collectors who venture into the forest, pray to Kalu Rai, the crocodile god, to keep them safe from the crocodile. The forest is watched over by Bonbibi, a goddess they believe protects locals from the Sundarbans tigers that are known to kill humans who venture into protected areas. I remember seeing the shrine next to the Sanjnekhali Forest Office Complex, with a statue of Bonbibi mounting a tiger, and a small statue of Dukhe, a young child sitting on a saltwater crocodile. As we watch Kalu Khan, Mondal tells me Bonbibi’s story. During a ferocious battle, Bonbibi rescues a young child named Dukhe from the clutches of Dakkhin Rai, a demon in the form of a tiger. She then sends him home safely on the back of her pet crocodile, Seko. “Is Seko worshipped too?” I ask Mondal. “No, only feared. Apart from the tiger, the saltwater crocodile is also known to kill fishermen,” he says. “Remember, dang-bagh, jol-e kumir,” he adds. (Tiger on land, crocodile in water.)

Human-crocodile conflict

Few protected areas in the country seem to have the intense human-animal conflict evident in the Sundarbans. According to official figures, the Sundarbans tiger has claimed 12 lives in 2019 alone, but locals say the numbers are much higher. The lives claimed by the saltwater crocodile come a close second, followed by deaths by the river shark. According to data released by the forest department, between 1999 and 2009, at least 29 people were attacked by crocodiles. Studies reveal that most cases occurred in areas where tiger prawns are farmed, an occupation led by women and children. Women with saris tucked into their waists wade through water and pull nets on the edges of the rivers, and have fallen victim to crocodiles. Yet, human-crocodile conflict receives little attention from authorities compared to tiger attacks that make for big news. “We have a tiger-centric mindset. The saltwater crocodile remains in its shadow. Fewer conservation efforts focus on the wellbeing of this species, and little is done to mitigate human-crocodile conflict. Both humans and animals suffer,” says Choudhury.

********

As we glided through the waters in our boat, taking in the kingfishers and crocodiles and the beautiful mangroves, I pondered on how the crocodile is probably deadlier than the tiger now, for the people of Sundarbans, as I read that there are more croc deaths than tiger killings in the Sundarbans these days.  

About 35 crocodiles were released into these waters in '22, adding to the 55 in '21!  While these predators restore the ecological balance in the Sundarbans, I wondered if the people of the area were consulted/considered?  Asked to leave?  Provided alternate employments to prawn seed fishing?  There seem to be no easy answers.  On the one hand, is the poaching and habitat loss which caused their numbers to decline in the early 21st century, and on the other are the people of the region, among the poorest and most dispossessed in the country - who are now as good as tiger/crocodile food.  Caught between the tiger and the crocodile and trapped by poverty, there are untold stories of neglect in the Sundarbans.  It seems migration is the only answer?  Many deaths are unreported by the families themselves, as the members may have been involved in fishing or wood gathering that is not allowed, and is therefore illegal.

And then, crocs enter the village ponds too, it seems!

Studies have been done on incidence.  Human–crocodile conflict in the Indian Sundarban: an analysis of spatio-temporal incidences in relation to people's livelihood.

Can you see the tip of our boat in the foreground on the left?  I dont think we were meant to be so close.  Sanjiv found himself almost eyeballing this Saltie through his telephoto lens!

This is a most chilling and horrific recounting of a crocodile death from Dr Annu Jalais' book Forest of Tigers.

“Sweat and Blood: 

The Smell of Tiger Prawn

Once, while we were sitting on the bund with some women prawn seed collectors, Arati began telling me about how a young woman called Kalpana had met her death the previous year. Kalpana collected prawn seed to meet the needs of her small family. She went out each morning at the break of dawn with Arati, Shobita and Nonibala, her three friends, and pulled the net for four to five hours along the riverbanks of her village, Annpur. On the morning of her death she had pulled the net for three hours before being caught by a crocodile. As the crocodile caught her thigh and dragged her into the deeper waters of the river, Kalpana  screamed out in terror and started beating the animal with her net. Her three friends ran to help her. One of them jumped in after her, trying to retrieve her from the murky waters, while the others shouted for help. What follows is keeping as close to Nonibala’s narrative as possible. Kalpana’s frantic gesticulations, cries and loud splashes as she fought with the crocodile pierced through the heavy white mist. After what seemed a horrendously long time they were replaced by the cracking of her net or bones or both. Nonibala was standing there in frozen torpor and then she swooned. When she sat up and desperately scanned the river for signs of life all she saw were bubbles and ripples disappearing into the stilling beige-brown surface of the river. She then noticed the trail of a slowly dulling bright red moving away from her while a soft cloying wetness, the limp end of a sari, washed itself around her legs. It felt as if a sudden soundless shard stabbed her through the heart, leaving her immobilised and speechless, as she realised her friend had been dragged away to the river’s depths by a crocodile. 

The islanders of Annpur came rushing to the riverbank immediately. The news spread fast. This was the fourth person in the locale to meet her death through these water monsters. Some other women had survived losing a limb to sharks. In fear, and to respect the dead woman’s memory, the collectors stopped work the following days.”

Excerpt From Forest of Tigers: People, Politics and Environment in the Sundarbans 

Sundarbans - first learnings

 As we head off for a few days to Sundarbans, the land of the shifting islands, I was happy to get a primer to these lands via the MNS talk by Dr Annu Jalais.

 

Dr Annu Jalais - grew up in the Sundarbans - is at Krea University and gave a wonderful snapshot to the sociology of the region.  

Of course everyone since has said, Oh you should read Amitav Ghosh's Hungry Tide..which I have not...and have since added to the reading list.

All the images are below are screenshots from her talk for my reference.

Tides, cyclones, today waves...all make the lower forest islands rather treacherous as far as human habitation goes.

Muskippers and mangroves, aerial roots and shifting sands.

Local legend - the salt water makes the tigers of Sundarbans rather grumpy and ill tempered.

There are three types of charms - the tickling one, the sleepy one, ad the one which removes hunger.  When the islanders get off the island, the charmer has to remove the spell, and free the tiger.  

The relationship to non-humans was something on a different paradigm from my urban thinking.

I am reading Forest of Tigers that is available as a free download here.  I learnt about the Hamilton of Hamilton Islands - and his cooperative social equality experiments, Gosaba, Satjelia, Canning, the bidyadari river, and how one was traveling Up or Down.

More learnings await.

2022 - the birding year that was

The birding year that was - A hat tip to my MNS Backbenchers

A trip to Perumbakkam in early Jan

Wigeons and Shovelers, was how it began.

Kentish plover in February 

at the mouth of the estuary,

The sea shells were not part of the plan. 

Nanmangalam was the highlight in March

When I spied the Jerdon’s Bush lark

Valparai,  in April

Pitta,  Thrush thrills,

And the Flameback hammering at the bark. 

Thiruvanmyur in the heat, all of May

Hellos to those red vented bulbuls, everyday

The koel all through June

matched my mood with its maddening tune

A life’s journey ended that day. 

The TS brought some cheer in July

I watched the beeeaters swoop and fly

Soil, earth - TTUF in August

lapwings shrieked and fussed, 

As though we were there to pry. 

Already it is September

and the pelicans on pylons I remember

Rain-drenched Mishmi in October

That Sultan Tit and Red-headed trogon, not at all sober, 

Those colours!  In my memory forever.

ECR outings and friends in late October

Terns, Whimbrels, pied kingfishers and laughter, still linger, 

marshlands in November

Osprey and Marsh Harrier

My raptor watch attempts I confess were meagre 

While Our fledged offspring took precedence in December

But still, those 3 score Black Kites in Andheri, soared in splendour

And so the year ended, 

My heart will be mended

Wigeons and Shovelers, at the wetlands once more. 

 *****

The first birding year where I have seen 200+ species.  

2022 list

• Rock Dove
• Rose-ringed Parakeet
• Common Myna
• House Crow
• Spot-billed Pelican
• Indian Peafowl
• Garganey
• Northern Shoveler
• Eurasian Wigeon
• Indian Spot-billed Duck
• Northern Pintail
• Jacobin Cuckoo
• Common Moorhen
• Eurasian Coot
• Grey-headed Swamphen
• White-breasted Waterhen
• Little Grebe
• Red-wattled Lapwing
• Pheasant-tailed Jacana
• Bronze-winged Jacana
• Common Sandpiper
• Painted Stork
• Asian Openbill
• Oriental Darter
• Little Cormorant
• Black-headed Ibis
• Black-crowned Night Heron
• Indian Pond Heron
• Eastern Cattle Egret
• Grey Heron
• Purple Heron
• Great Egret
• Intermediate Egret
• Little Egret
• Eastern Marsh Harrier
• White-throated Kingfisher
• Common Kingfisher
• Blue-tailed Bee-eater
• Brown Shrike
• Barn Swallow
• Blyth's Reed Warbler
• Pied Bush Chat
• Purple Sunbird
• Paddyfield Pipit
• Shikra
• Greater Flameback
• Rufous Treepie
• Common Tailorbird
• Yellow-billed Babbler
• Red-vented Bulbul
• Spotted Dove
• Kentish Plover
• Black-tailed Godwit
• Common Redshank
• Common Greenshank
• White-browed Bulbul
• Watercock
• Spotted Redshank
• Caspian Tern
• Whiskered Tern
• Black-winged Stilt
• Grey-headed Lapwing
• Little Stint
• Wood Sandpiper
• Brown-headed Gull
• Pied Kingfisher
• House Sparrow
• Fulvous Whistling Duck
• Ruddy Shelduck
• Eastern Spot-billed Duck
• Grey Francolin
• Greater Coucal
• Common Hawk-Cuckoo
• Ruddy-breasted Crake
• Greater Flamingo
• Pied Avocet
• Ruff
• Common Snipe
• Marsh Sandpiper
• Glossy Ibis
• Eurasian Spoonbill
• Black-winged Kite
• Booted Eagle
• White-eyed Buzzard
• Eurasian Hoopoe
• Peregrine Falcon
• Indian Golden Oriole
• Indian Paradise Flycatcher
• Blyth's Leaf Warbler
• Clamorous Reed Warbler
• Zitting Cisticola
• Plain Prinia
• Oriental Magpie-Robin
• Streaked Weaver
• Indian Silverbill
• Scaly-breasted Munia
• Black-throated Munia
• Tricolored Munia
• Western Yellow Wagtail
• Citrine Wagtail
• Blue-faced Malkoha
• Laughing Dove
• Ashy Woodswallow
• Jerdon's Bush Lark
• Red-whiskered Bulbul
• Common Babbler
• Indian Robin
• Forest Wagtail
• Striated Heron
• Indian Pitta
• Malabar Whistling Thrush
• Pale-billed Flowerpecker
• Indian Swiftlet
• Crested Serpent Eagle
• Black Eagle
• Chestnut-headed Bee-eater
• Streak-throated Woodpecker
• Plum-headed Parakeet
• Orange Minivet
• Long-tailed Shrike
• Indian Black-lored Tit
• Black-headed Bulbul
• Indian White-eye
• Velvet-fronted Nuthatch
• Brown-breasted Flycatcher
• Eurasian Tree Sparrow
• Asian Palm Swift
• Crested Honey Buzzard
• Chestnut-tailed Starling
• Eurasian Collared Dove
• Ashy-headed Green Pigeon
• Common Buzzard
• Bar-winged Flycatcher-shrike
• Common Iora
• Grey-chinned Minivet
• Scarlet Minivet
• White-throated Fantail
• Striated Bulbul
• Golden Babbler
• Yellow-throated Fulvetta
• Small Niltava
• Verditer Flycatcher
• Blue Rock Thrush
• Orange-bellied Leafbird
• Streaked Spiderhunter
• Russet Sparrow
• Grey Wagtail
• Olive-backed Pipit
• Maroon Oriole
• Marsh Babbler
• Grey Bush Chat
• White-rumped Munia
• Whiskered Yuhina
• White-naped Yuhina
• Stripe-throated Yuhina
• Little Forktail
• Plumbeous Water Redstart
• White-capped Redstart
• White-browed Wagtail
• Black Drongo
• Brahminy Starling
• Green-billed Malkoha
• Besra
• Red-headed Trogon
• Great Hornbill
• Blue-eared Barbet
• Rufous Woodpecker
• Pied Falconet
• Large Woodshrike
• Greater Racket-tailed Drongo
• Common Green Magpie
• Sultan Tit
• White-throated Bulbul
• Ashy Bulbul
• Black-crested Bulbul
• Jungle Myna
• Lesser Whistling Duck
• Swamp Francolin
• Yellow-footed Green Pigeon
• Temminck's Stint
• Grey-headed Fish Eagle
• Black-hooded Oriole
• Red-rumped Swallow
• Striated Grassbird
• Siberian Stonechat
• Purple-rumped Sunbird
• Eastern Yellow Wagtail
• Rosy Pipit
• Oriental Pratincole
• Little Ringed Plover
• Asian Green Bee-eater
• Pacific Golden Plover
• Indian Cormorant
• Eurasian Golden Oriole
• Black Kite
• Brahminy Kite
• White-spotted Fantail
• Loten's Sunbird
• Great Cormorant
• Yellow Bittern
• Ashy Prinia

First record of Greylag in Adyar estuary

 "On 15 November evening while walking along the riverside road in the Theosophical Society at about 5.15 pm I spotted a pair of big greyish coloured long-necked birds at a distance in the Adyar Estuary. There were many other large birds there that day- at least 20 pelicans and several painted storks, but these were distinctly different. It was a hazy evening and the birds were far away beyond the small islands in the river, but through binoculars, I could identify them as Greylag geese by the bulky body, shape of the neck and bill and colouration. They were standing in shallow water and swam away after a few minutes.

Having never seen them in this location before, despite being a regular walker along the river path, and always checking the estuary for birds, I made some enquiries among MNS members and others if there are any earlier records of this species. Both V Santharam who is familiar with the Adyar estuary for the past 40 years and Dr Balachandran of BNHS who is the best bird migration expert confirmed there is no previous record here. 

However, since my observation needed to be corroborated, I requested Geetha Jaikumar to also take a look when she went there. Fortunately, one the birds was still present on 17th Nov and she photographed it with her cellphone camera. Geetha's pictures confirm the sighting as the first record of Greylag Goose in the Adyar estuary.

On 18th November, a group of us again scanned the estuary with binoculars and scope from the same spot at around the same time and Geetha also looked out for them on subsequent days, but there was no further sighting. Perhaps the geese had moved away to the opposite bank where they were not visible, or had left the area. 

Tara Gandhi "

Arunachal tribe fears wipeout by dam project - Indian Express

The EIA survey found two species of butterfly?!

Seriously? We saw more than 80 species of butterflies, several dozen unidentified moths and 100plus bird species.

http://archive.indianexpress.com/news/arunachal-tribe-fears-wipeout-by-dam-project/204467/

Poaching in the Mishmi Hills - Frontline

https://frontline.thehindu.com/environment/conservation/article5285233.ece

Mishmi trip summary by Hrishu Aravind

Hrishu was the only minor/child on our trip, and gamely put up with our ways, adding a wry comment here and there.  (All others, children at heart, yes yes.)

This is such a beautiful summary - that I want it here, so I can refer to it at anytime.  Added a few pictures here and there.  (Picture captions and sarky comments are mine, so please do not blame "Kutty" (as Raja called him).

MNS Mishmi Hills and Assam Trip Report

September 30 – October 09, 2022

I woke at 1:30 am (to catch the flight for the trip), not too sleepy to be excited. I had jumped at the chance to go on this trip. I mean, initiation into serious birding with a trip to the Northeast?! Two flights, a magnificent view of the Brahmaputra, and 9 hours later we reached Dibrugarh airport.

Brahmaputra Views from Flight 2 - Kolkata to Dibrugarh

Day 0: We were welcomed by Mr Hiranya, one of our tour managers. Each of us were greeted with a traditional gamchha by our car drivers. Vijay uncle had already assigned us into groups and to cars, so all that remained to be done was to board the car. It was a four hour drive from Dibrugarh to Roing. Mr Probin Hatibaruah, our bird guide, joined us on the way. 

Tea plantations once we left Dibrugarh

After a stop for lunch, we reached Bhupen Hazarika Bridge, where we had been assured we would see vultures. We did indeed see them. There were about 10 to 15 individuals each of White rumped vulture and Himalayan griffon vulture. I spent a very happy 15 minutes watching them soar from an unknown position and circle down into the grass. It was quite a spectacular way to start the trip. 

Spectacular shots by Suresh.  There must have ben a carcass in the distance, and the area was like a busy airport, as these magnificent large birds circled and landed.  Once they landed, I could not see them.  They are one of the largest Gyps

Once again, Suresh.

The river and bridge were spectacular.  I loved this patch of grass, in full flower, in the middle of the Lohit.

Sadiya, Assam, on the other side of the bridge - where we stopped for chai.

We all met Probin da at the tea stop.

Arunachal!

A first glimpse of stilt long houses.

The hills!

We reached Yatri Niwas (our hotel in Roing) at about 4:30 PM by which time it was already getting dark. We were met by Mr Pralay, and a flock of Eurasian tree sparrows. After settling in we left for the other base - Dibang Valley Jungle Camp. After a mothing session we had our dinner, and retired for the day. 

Yatri Nivas by night with a panchami moon. (Navaratri week, remember.)

One of the moths we saw that night - see how well it goes with Yuvan's veshti border. The said veshti was burnt by the end of the night.

Day 1: I woke up at 4:30 AM and was surprised to find it bright. We met Mr Jibi Pulu, and left for his camp to learn about his work to save Lower Dibang Valley from a Hydroelectric project. A slightly harrowing drive - five stream crossings - later, we reached the community conserved area created by Jibiji. 

After our breakfast of bread sandwich and puri, we entered the land of giant wood spiders. They were ever-present along the side of the road and made huge webs that caught the sun beautifully. 

Beautiful webs, strung across and above our paths.

Giant wood spiders everywhere, undisturbed webs, marvels of symmetry.

With a catch as well.

Avian fauna was surprisingly nonexistence, but the plethora of butterflies ensured they were not missed. We saw a White dragontail, Orange oakleaf, Golden birdwings, and other species like sailor, bluebottle, and several Mormon species. The most common butterfly was the Large Yeoman. 

Sailor on Suresh's camera.

The camera was busy capturing the Yeoman

The views at the end.  Read about Speed Dialling confusions here.

The endemic forktail which got Yuvan all excited.  A beautiful little butterfly which was busy mud puddling.

All these were seen while walking on the track through tall evergreen forest and, for a short while, grassland. We got to wade through two streams but turned back on Jibiji’s advise. Jibiji told us traditional Mishmi tribal stories of Gibbons, tigers and takins on our return walk. 

It was hot when we returned to the camp, and we spent the afternoon under the shade - one set under that green verandah and another on the opposite side under the trees.

We saw an Oriental honey buzzard during lunch. We left for Sally Lake (for tea), doing birding on the way. The notable sightings were Emerald dove, Blue throated barbet, and Sparrowhawk. 

Suresh captured this beautiful Birdwing on the return.  There were many flitting through the Rees, looking like birds, so huge were they.

The flowers they were nectaring on.

And the Popinjay we saw at regular intervals too.

Sally Lake

At Sally lake the only bird I saw was a Long tailed minivet, and that was the last action of the day. 

Sally Lake - a beautiful little natural lake, which one accesses above, and see the lake and the woodlands around. We were tired, and there was a rather delicious tea that became favourite with the group.

Prayer flags stretched across, and away from the chatter and laughter of our group, the lake was serene, but very quiet, no tweets and chirps, very odd.

there was no one besides us at the lake.  We were happy and tired.  Sat around on the benches and then trooped into our cars and headed back.

Tiwarigaon trails Day 2: The plan for the day was to do roadside birding on the Tiwarigaon trail. The road travelled through dense evergreen forest with tall trees and fishtail palms. 

Every morning we saw a family of ducks either waddling besides the road, or bathing in the little puddles in the road.

A reluctant piggie being taken for a walk- a common sight, but quite amusing on our first morning drive.  

We began the day by seeing a Common buzzard. We saw Grey treepie, Long tailed sibia, Streaked spiderhunter, and Orange bellied leafbird, all before the road went into real dense forest. We also saw a flock of Russet sparrow which we mistook for Rose finch initially. 

Buteo buteo - Common Buzzard - Ravi's picture

Sheila's spectacular shot of the Common Buzzard in flight. I wonder if this is the winter visitor or the resident Himalayan subspecies?

At a nice viewpoint, Probinda pointed out the rivers visible. We had our breakfast then, and I spotted a Crested serpent eagle. 

The river valley with all the rivers.

White Bauhinia on our walk.  The vegetation was "tropical evergreen", at this height.  Several Terminalias and Albizzias

On our drive to the next stop, we heard Hoolock Gibbons and one of the drivers spotted the troop. After a bit we saw them on the opposite slope. One gibbon demonstrated his swinging prowess. A little further another troop treated us to a concert. We couldn’t spot them but we did see a White throated fantail. 

Some of the cars hadn’t stopped and missed the gibbons but they saw several small forest birds and a Mountain hawk eagle. After we joined them, we saw Nepal fulvetta, Hume’s bush warbler, Grey chinned minivet and Small niltava among others. 

Much to Yuvan anna’s delight, the butterflies had come out now that it was hotter. Birdwings we found aplenty, as well as the Red lacewing, Paris Peacock and others. That portion of the day was devoted mostly to butterflies, though we did see the Little spiderhunter and heard the Rufous necked hornbill. 

A stick insect on the roadside led to much "Q&A".  Arjun asked "how do you know its an insect?".  Yuvan says with rolling eyes - it has 6 legs.  Arjun persists (and I had to say I agreed with Arjun) - it could be a stick with 6 branches.  Yuvan gave up and walked away.  The said stick insect walked, at this point, and the argument was settled.

The new Anini Road and viewpoint

The new Anini road is not open for traffic, there is blasting still going on. The hill and rubble looked so fragile.

So while behind us was a blasted and bleak hillside, on the other side was this.  The beautiful grass flowers and the valley below.

In the afternoon we drove to the new anini road. As we were driving Probinda saw a Parrotbill. We heard it but couldn’t spot it. We also saw a Sultan tit. At the new anini road I was surprised to find out that Grey wagtails have a lot of yellow plumage. We had a great view of both male and female Blue rock thrush, and the sunset. 

3:57 PM - the clouds, hills and river below catching the light.  It was a time for pictures, just breathing in the scenery and being humbled by the river valley.

4:47 PM - a blaze of glory above, but dark shadows below.  For some reason I dreamed of the Kaziranga floodplains that I had seen a couple of years earlier.

Cicadas in our dinner and other stories.

Jia Grasslands

Day 3: I woke at what had become my usual wake-up time, ready to see Parrotbills. We were going to Jia grassland to try and spot them. We were unsuccessful. We heard the call but couldn’t spot the bird. We did see the Stonechat, a few Doves and some lovely flowers and dragonflies. Probinda told us about the Parrotbills and how they need three types of grass to survive, and about gibbons. We made our way to a river where we saw White rumped munias. I saw a Marsh babbler (Probinda identified the call). We returned for breakfast during which we saw a Brown shrike. 

The seeds of the grass - beautiful picture by Ramesh.

Hanging back, to go "around the corner", and I saw this - Is it a Common Batwing?

Our next stop was Sally Lake. On the way however, my car (which had Vijay uncle, Ramesh uncle and Yuvan Anna) turned off to the Riwatch museum, which Jibiji had recommended we visit. Jiten bhai (our driver) managed to do a full 360 degree turn when we saw a signboard that said “Monday closed” but decided to continue. Vijay uncle was successful in having the museum opened and we saw Idu Mishmi weapons, headgear and other cultural items. 

Sally Lake again

After we finally reached Sally lake we found it to be a moth paradise. After photographing the moths everyone returned to their rooms. 

My father and I took a walk around Dibang valley jungle camp before lunch and saw several butterflies, including a Common palmfly. 

After lunch, Probinda led us on a walk around the camp. We spotted Maroon oriole, White rumped needletail, Spangled drongo and, best of all, a snake - the Mountain keelback. Around 5:30, we left for sally lake again, this time for a mothing session. The morning’s moths were still in the same position. The light attracted more cicadas than moths but it was an interesting half hour nonetheless. 

Tiwarigaon trail again - further explorations of the Mehao Wildlife Sanctuary

Day 4: Having got 20 more minutes of sleep than I expected (the delay in leaving was because of a water problem) I was well rested for the day’s birding. It was a cold and overcast day. We were going to a place called 40 km point and would bird while walking back. It was 1800m high and the vegetation appeared a little different. 

6am - Tiwarigaon and beautiful mist and hills.  Magical and mystical. 

The Gaon was always shut.  Or maybe we were always crossing it at a "shut" time. But the layers of hills and the mist always drew my eyes away from the village.

I think this is the Indian chestnut - "Hingori" - in Assamese.

Every step had wonders like this.  At this height, different vegetations

How to not photograph at every turn?  Honestly, I did not miss the birds, and was too distracted to focus on searching for them.

There were more orchids, ferns, and climbing plants. Some notable birds we sighted in the morning were : Himalayan bluetail, Yellow bellied fantail and several Yuhinas. 

Chekopani bridge - breakfast and rain

As we reached Chekopani bridge (where we had our breakfast) it began raining. Despite that, we saw Plumbeous water redstart, White capped river redstart and Little forktail at the bridge. 

Plumbeous Water Redstart - A lovely photo by Meera

Plumbeous Water Redstart - Photo by Ravi

White capped river redstart - Photo by Ravi

Photo by Ravi - Little Forktail - My lifer.  And my first forktail.

Each of us on our own journey of discovery and delight - Photo by Ramesh.

To get out of the rain and the mist which had rolled in, we drove down and (once we were out of it) began birding again. We spotted Scarlet finch, Red tailed minla, two Sunbirds, Grey headed canary flycatcher and Beautiful sibia. We also saw the Mountain bulbul and Blue throated barbet. 

Scarlet Finch I did not see - Photo by Meera. (one of the many birds I missed as I stared at undergrowth and other such things.)

Further down the Anini Road. A bridge across the river was coming up.  Rubble everywhere, uphill.

Beautiful stones like this ripped from above, and lying exposed.  I mused by how many people will benefit from the bridge.  Was there a better way to do it, though?

Yuvan and Hrishu up on the hill side watching the mud puddling butterflies.

After lunch we left for the new anini road; however this time we were going further than we had two days ago. We found a butterfly-mudpuddling spot on the anini road, and Yuvan anna refused to budge from there, so our car followed the rest minus one person. The area near the bridge had fantastic views, but the only bird we saw was a Collared treepie. When we picked up Yuvan anna later, he showed us both White and Green dragontail butterflies. 

Usha says she just gasped when she saw this moment - discovered by Meera.  Paris Peacocks mud puddling - Photo by Meera

Meera aunty had seen another mudpuddling site and had told the group. We stopped there and found more than half a dozen Paris peacocks and a couple of Yeomans and Bluebottles. I returned to my room dazed from the butterfly sightings. 

Mayudia Pass breakfast encounters here

Day 5: I found that it can be dark in the mornings in Mishmi, when I woke up at 3:15. The plan for the day was to go to Mayodia pass. Unfortunately the only birds I saw were a White and a Grey wagtail. They were the only birds who came out on a day in which only demented penguins should be out and about. It began to rain during our drive and was quite heavy by the time we reached Mayodia. We took shelter in a two room hotel (maya hotel). The grown-ups drank tea while I assuaged my hunger with biscuits - breakfast being in the one car (which also had my dad) that had gone ahead. Eventually the cars’ passengers joined us and we ate. 

Yuvan anna had been talking to the locals in the kitchen about climate change and we learnt that snowfall had reduced over the years. I ventured out after breakfast and got soaked by a horizontal spray of rain. I went to the kitchen to warm myself at the fireplace/stove and found others with the same issue. Yuvan anna’s attempt to find out what wood the fireplace was made from ended in confusion and laughter - “ye konsa ladki hai?” Gayathree aunty fared better and translated the reply, which had Yuvan anna wondering whether to laugh or cry - “it comes from a tree.” We left Mayodia and returned to our rooms because the rain wouldn’t let up. On our way back the breakfast car got a puncture (thank goodness it didn’t have lunch) which delayed them. 

After lunch a group played the wilderness game and I spotted a moth. After a wait, for Yuvan anna to be free, I got the moth ID’d as Jerdon’s window moth. A few people visited the market and the Riwatch museum, but I was done for the day. 

The Wilderness game is available for sale - click here. It was great fun.  Yuvan had a tough time trying to  get us aligned to the rules of the game - each of us wanting our own rules.  Devika insisted she need two turns, Gangapriya wanted to show everyone her cards, Usha kept things close to her chest, I nitpicked over descriptions, and Yuvan tore his hair!  (Easier to teach kids, he must have thought.). Anyway, it was strategic Usha who "won", creating a strong eco system before the rest of us.

Moth on light

Day 6: I woke up late as there was no morning birding and made the 20 minute journey from Yatri Niwas to Dibang valley jungle camp for one last time. We ate breakfast and played wilderness as it was raining relentlessly. Suresh uncle was taking photography classes (I joined for a while), and some others had braved the rain to bird in the camp. 

Elu uncle called me for a walk around the camp. We saw the Red necked laughingthrush, Rufous woodpecker, White rumped munias, Bulbuls, Swallows and more. We also saw several butterflies including the Purple sapphire and a few Five rings. We actually saw the Rufous woodpecker very close to the dining room, but it flew off before anyone else could see it. I spent a little while perusing the Salim Ali 10 volume set (to ID the birds) kept at the camp dining room. 

Moving On and away from Roing

We set off for Digboi after lunch. On the drive we saw Oriental Pied hornbills, Honey buzzard, Green billed malkoha, Hill myna; I saw a Black capped kingfisher as well. Upon entering our rooms (verandas, to be precise) we were greeted by a double rainbow. 

The rainbow at Digboi - I saw a single.

We were in the 3rd floor apartment, along with Ravi and Suresh, and these Asian Pied Starlings were in our eyeline.  Photo by Ravi.

Several people decided to visit the Digboi oil museum. I chose to stay behind and instead saw a Barred owlet in the garden. Unfortunately it was dark and I couldn’t get a good photograph. I had also spotted a Shrike and White throated kingfisher earlier. At dinner, I confirmed (from more knowledgeable people) that I had indeed seen a Black capped kingfisher and a Barred owlet, after checking if the owlet was still in the vicinity. 

Dehing Patkai - and the gibbons

Day 7: We set out for Dehing Patkai at around 5:30 am. As we neared the park, we saw an emerald dove, and a little before the final turning to the national park we saw a group of Hoolock Gibbons. There was a male, a couple of females, and a baby too, feeding. We spent some time watching the antics of the gibbons and observed their feeding. 

The Gibbon male on the kadamba tree, looking at us.  With fruit in hand - Photo by Ramesh

The Gibbon Male - Photo by Meera

The female Gibbon, lighter brown.  Photo by Meera

We also spotted a Lesser yellownape. 

After breakfast at the entrance of Dehing Patkai we set out for the morning walk inside the national park. Three forest guards accompanied us. We walked on a leaf covered path in dense lowland rainforest comprised of tall dipterocarps. There were also a lot of ferns. We spotted a Great hornbill in flight and heard the Brown hornbill. We also saw the Rufous woodpecker, both Lesser and Greater racket tailed drongos, Black headed cuckoo shrike, Sultan tit and Woodshrikes. We heard the Grey peacock pheasant and a few people saw the Khalij pheasant. On our way back for lunch, we spotted a Crested serpent eagle and a troop of Rhesus macaques. A little further down the road we had the luck to see a Pied falconet eat a bulbul and then fly into a tree, possibly to catch something else. 

We returned to Dehing patkai after lunch to look for the Trogon. We were greeted by the sight of mudpuddling butterflies on what Probinda later said was leopard scat. About 5 minutes after we began walking the afternoon bird activity began. We saw Large and Common woodshrikes, Grey headed woodpecker, Chestnut bellied nuthatch, Sultan tits, Blue winged leafbird, and others. We also saw a Tropical swallowtail moth. Earlier in the day we had seen a False tiger moth. Other Lepidoptera we saw included loads of Barons and Archdukes, Grey counts, Golden angle, Yellow helen, Common tit. Suresh uncle photographed a Fluffy tit. After we went a little way up one path we turned back and tried another. This time we did see the Red headed trogon. It was sitting inside the tree but one could still see it. I was delighted to finally spot it after all our efforts. On our way to the car we saw Blue bearded bee-eater When we returned to the car, we found out that Yuvan Anna, who had turned back earlier to see the butterflies, had not only seen a pair of Trogons, but also a Green magpie and Khalij pheasants. Arun uncle had seen the Trogons earlier in the morning as well. 

(My Dehing Patkai narrative here.)

We left Dehing patkai for Tinsukia reluctantly ( at least in my case). As I was in the back seat I dozed off and didn’t spot anything else. 

Maguree beel wetlands and the Dibru Saikowa national park

Day 8: This was the last day of birding on the trip. We were going to the Maguree beel wetlands and the Dibru saikowa national park. We set out with packed breakfast. Neither mine nor Yuvan anna’s lasted the drive. Much to Ramesh uncle’s and Vijay uncle’s relief we left theirs alone. 

We reached Maguree Beel and got into the boats only for it to start raining. We sheltered in the cars and after some discussion, Vijay uncle announced that we would go to Dibru Saikowa first. 

We reached Dibru Saikhowa and got into a big roofed boat. 

The rain had lessened. I was in the lower deck and shortly after we set off saw a Striated heron. After a bit I climbed to the upper deck and was rewarded with the sight of a Greenshank. We also saw Lapwings, Swamp francolins and a Grey headed fishing eagle. A large flock of ducks, comprising Lesser whistling and Indian spot bills, was sighted. Apart from that the trip was uneventful. 

This beautiful picture of the rising mists by Ramesh

Brooms!  Lined up on the banks, from the grasslands

Canebrakes - another unique aspect of Dibru Saikhowa National Park are the little islands of Elephant grass.

The Grey-headed Fishing Eagle- picture by Meera

The mixed forests I am sure had many hidden treasures.

The rain had stopped so we returned to Maguree beel. The boats here were pole boats which looked like canoes. As we boarded them it started drizzling but cleared up as we left. There must have been something about that docking place because it drizzled again when we landed on our return. We set out in spite of the drizzle and it was worth it. I think this must be the best way to bird in a water body. We could get right inside the water body, at water level and moving at a gentle unobtrusive speed without disturbing any bird. Once the sun came out it was even pleasant to sit on a wooden plank. During our boat ride, we saw the Striated grassbird, Ruddy breasted crake, Rusty rumped warbler, Rosy pipits, both the Bronze winged and Pheasant tailed (without the tail) jacanas, Temminck’s stint and a Darter. Naturally there were loads of Herons, Egrets and Cormorants; Barn swallows and Wagtails too. 

Our lunch halt - nice fresh and simple food.  Every meal we thoroughly enjoyed, and  it is best to eat local food rather than the pan Indian ubiquitous PBM. 

After lunch we went on a short walk where we saw Moorhens, Jacanas and saw several dragonflies and damselflies. 

The views on the walk. 

(Picture wing dragonflies in hundreds!)

Some of us went on a second boat ride. This was even better in the afternoon sun, drifting in between water lilies and hyacinth. This time we saw a lot more Jacanas as well as Little Grebe and a pair of Cotton pygmy geese. A Pied kingfisher enthralled us with its dives. 

After some hot pakoras, we said our goodbyes to Probinda and returned to the hotel. That night we had a special Assamese thali in an authentic Assamese family run restaurant.

Day 9: After last minute packing and breakfast we left for the airport. We said our farewells to our drivers, Pralayda and Hiranyada. Also there to see us off was a White wagtail.

A few words on the food.  The food was simple, tasty and filling although a tad spicy to my palate. The local greens were interesting. And curd was provided!

Probinda was a mine of information not only about birds but about the myths and folklore associated with the hills. His mimic of the gibbons was amazing and hilarious. His whistles were awesome. Pralayda had amazingly deep knowledge of trekking and wildlife in addition to his tour management skills. All the drivers, Jiten, Dhanonjay, Thakur, Moon, Mintu, Shamim and Prashanto were very cheerful and helpful and patient with the boisterous group.

This was a memorable trip (not just because it was my first one) and one which I would like to repeat with the same group. There is so much more to see, which we couldn’t this time, for lack of time and a knowledgeable guide — trees, flowers, butterflies, insects and mammals, that many trips are needed."

********

Thank you Hrishu, for that fabulous summary.

Here are some links for photo albums.

Meera

Suresh

Ramesh

Gayathree

Ravi

Ramesh -  butterflies

Meera - insects