Showing posts with label History-World. Show all posts

Wednesday, August 30, 2017

The Belitung shipwreck and the maritime silk road

15th March 2017

Harlem under snow, as I looked east, the morning after.

The morning sun lit up the the maze of concrete that is Manhattan.

Down street-side, and Marion Sims seemed to be disapproving of the slushy mess, as we lurched on in the stop-go traffic besides Central Park.

We were headed towards the Belitung shipwreck exhibition at the Asia Society. (Left to our own devices, we would have stayed at home, played with the dog and had chai, but thanks to my dear sis in law we learnt some history, geography, foreign trade and art!)

Where on earth is Belitung and why is the shipwreck important?

Belitung is an Indonesian island, east of Sumatra, not very large, and colonised by the Dutch at some point, with beautiful beaches and coral reefs. In the 9th century, much before Vasco Da Gama an Arabian Dhow returning from China to Africa sank in these waters.

The wreck was only discovered in 1998, and the recovery of the cargo resulted in one of the largest collection of Tang dynasty treasures. It also was clear proof of a maritime trade route - a rival to the inland Silk Route - between China under the Tang dynasty and West Asia, where the Abbasid Caliphate was in power.

More interestingly, the salvage and restoration was undertaken by a private agency called Seabed Explorations, in association with the Indonesian Government, and the western archeological world has sniffed at what they called a "treasure hunter" approach to the wreck and its cargo. So much so that the restored artefacts - which included more than 70,000 pieces of Chinese ceramic ware - were forbidden from being exhibited in the US until recently!

If I have understood it right, in 2005, a significant portion of the restored objects were sold for US$32 million to the Govt of Singapore via a holding company, who now loans them for exhibitions across the world. I just found it amusing that the global flag bearer of capitalism objected to this private enterprise in restoration.

The cargo

The Belitung wreck had cargo from several kilns across China, each of which had their
characteristic look, glaze and designs. The ship was therefore an aggregator, much like the Amazons
of today.

A well preserved ewer, which is said to be based on the metalware of west Asia

Changsha wares were painted with iron and copper oxide based pigments of brown, green and red. They were hand painted and quite varied, with themes usually being from the natural world.

Characteristic green pigments of the Changsha ware

These large packing jars had an inscription with a year, which has helped date the entire lot of ceramic ware to 826 AD.

Another Changsha kiln ewer - this one with brown pigment.

A variety of bowls from the Changsha kilns, with motifs that had Buddhist significance

With cloud like formations in the painting.

The Gongxian kilns on the other hand specialised on the cobalt blue and white ceramics. Painting with blue cobalt is believed to have started with the painters in Basra and then was a specialty of Iran. In what is reminiscent of today's Made in China label, it seems that the potters of Gongxian took the Iranian method of painting with cobalt onto their own ceramics.

These are the earliest Chinese blue and white pottery known

The Yue Kilns to the east of China specialised in a green glaze with subtle floral designs

The Xing Kilns in Hebei province in northern China produced the fines white ceramics, and the three hundred odd white ceramics on the Belitung shipwreck were probably the most expensive of the ceramics. The exhibition write ups indicated that the wealthy in the Abbasid caliphate highly valued these white wares.

One of the white ware pieces

Besides these ceramics, the shipwreck also contained some gold and silver objects and mirrors.

It was a gem of an exhibition, and one of those things that you get to see because you happen to be in the right place at the right time, and also one that I was more amazed by upon my return and when I read further about it.

As we left, the icing on the cake was Google cardboard VR headsets that gave you a sense of how it looked under the sea!

More on the exhibition here.

It was back on the streets, with graffiti and slush.

Sunday, June 12, 2016

Chendebji Chorten - Bhutan memories

4th May 2016 The MNS group were on the way back from Trongsa in east Bhutan to Paro in the west.

It was to be a loooong drive, we knew, since just the day before we had done the west to east trip, and it had seemed never ending. I am a nervous traveller on hill roads, and I did not look forward to the 100+km ride back.

3rd May - We had spotted this chorten on the way, and those painted eyes really intrigued me. Painted on all four sides, they looked on calmly at all passersby, and was quite unusual in terms of what we had seen in Bhutan so far.

Around 2pm with a light drizzle making the road conditions worse, we spotted the chorten again, and it was decided that we would halt for lunch here, only about 50kms from our start!

This is the charm of Bhutan. A little brook at every corner, with clear water, and for the most part, clean banks. This little stream ran beside the chorten.

The view from the far side. The main stupa, the prayer wall and the smaller shorten in the side. A solitary pilgrim perambulated the chorten, muttering her prayers, giving us a smile as we passed by.

The beginnings of this stupa are interesting. We we were told that it was built by a Lama, whose ancestors were Tibetan, and modelled after the Swayambunath stupa in Nepal. Hence the eyes, and the conical upper part of the stupa, which is more Nepali.

The story goes that there was an evil spirit here, who troubled the locals. Bibek our guide referred to her as an "ogress", and upon return I chanced upon her name as Ngala dudm. Its not quite clear what problems she caused, but she had to be subdued, The chorten was built to symbolise her subjugation and the return of peace to the valley around.

A quaint little bridge that provided us with shelter for our lunch, and we were all relieved to be out of the coach and into the fresh air.

The friendly dog at the chorten

According to the Bhutan Cultural Atlas,

"Lama Ngesup Tshering Wangchuk constructed the Chendebji stupa. Lama Ngesup Tshering Wangchuk was a descendent of the Bemji Choeje in Trongsa, whose ancestor is said to have been a Tibetan King named Trisong Detsen.

Lama Ngesup Tshering Wangchuk brought a model of the Chendebji stupa from Nepal, and this model is still kept in Gangtey Gonpa, which is located in Wangdue district. It is similar to the Jarung Khashor/ Bodhanath stupa of Nepal, which was built by a woman named Yum Jazinma (which translates to “the poultry lady”), who was actually the incarnation of a Dakini, and her four sons, one of whom being reincarnated as the Tibetan King, Trisong Detsen."

The large prayer wall, with prayers painted along below the roof

At the head of the prayer wall is a slate with the "Om Mani padme hum hi" engraving.

This was added in 1982, if I am not mistaken - the more traditional Bhutanese square chorten. "built by the Royal grand-mother Ashi Kesang Choden Wangchuck" according to the Bhutan Cultural Atlas

The drizzle abated, and it was good to catch a view of the hillsides and the panorama behind. If you click on the picture and zoom in on the stupa, you will see religious painting all around in little alcoves.

Reluctantly, we all bundled back into our coach to continue our journey back east.

Wednesday, January 21, 2015

Success stories and learnings

Restored Forests Breathe Life Into Efforts Against Climate Change

By JUSTIN GILLISDEC. 23, 2014

LA VIRGEN, Costa Rica — Over just a few decades in the mid-20th century, this small country chopped down a majority of its ancient forests. But after a huge conservation push and a wave of forest regrowth, trees now blanket more than half of Costa Rica.

Far to the south, the Amazon forest was once being quickly cleared to make way for farming, but Brazil has slowed the loss so much that it has done more than any other country to limit the emissions leading to global warming.

And on the other side of the world, in Indonesia, bold new promises have been made in the past few months to halt the rampant cutting of that country’s forests, backed by business interests with the clout to make it happen.

In the battle to limit the risks of climate change, it has been clear for decades that focusing on the world’s immense tropical forests — saving the ones that are left, and perhaps letting new ones grow — is the single most promising near-term strategy.

That is because of the large role that forests play in what is called the carbon cycle of the planet. Trees pull the main greenhouse gas, carbon dioxide, out of the air and lock the carbon away in their wood and in the soil beneath them. Destroying them, typically by burning, pumps much of the carbon back into the air, contributing to climate change.

Over time, humans have cut down or damaged at least three-quarters of the world’s forests, and that destruction has accounted for much of the excess carbon that is warming the planet.

But now, driven by a growing environmental movement in countries that are home to tropical forests, and by mounting pressure from Western consumers who care about sustainable practices, corporate and government leaders are making a fresh push to slow the cutting — and eventually to halt it. In addition, plans are being made by some of those same leaders to encourage forest regrowth on such a giant scale that it might actually pull a sizable fraction of human-released carbon dioxide out of the air and lock it into long-term storage.

With the recent signs of progress, long-wary environmental groups are permitting themselves a burst of optimism about the world’s forests.

“The public should take heart,” said Rolf Skar, who helps lead forest conservation work for the environmental group Greenpeace. “We are at a potentially historic moment where the world is starting to wake up to this issue, and to apply real solutions.”

Still, Greenpeace and other groups expect years of hard work as they try to hold business leaders and politicians accountable for the torrent of promises they have made lately. The momentum to slow or halt deforestation is fragile, for many reasons. And even though rich Western governments have hinted for years that they might be willing to spend tens of billions of dollars to help poor countries save their forests, they have allocated only a few billion dollars.

Around the world, trees are often cut down to make room for farming, and so the single biggest threat to forests remains the need to feed growing populations, particularly an expanding global middle class with the means to eat better. Saving forests, if it can be done, will require producing food much more intensively, on less land.

“For thousands of years, the march of civilization has been associated with converting natural ecosystems to crops that serve only man,” said Glenn Hurowitz, a managing director at Climate Advisers, a consultancy in Washington.

“What’s happening now is that we are trying to break that paradigm. If that succeeds, it’s going to be a major development in human history.”

A Remarkable Comeback

Deep inside a Costa Rican rain forest, white-faced capuchin monkeys leapt through the tree tops. Nunbirds and toucans flew overhead, and a huge butterfly, flashing wings of an iridescent blue, fluttered through the air.

Ignoring the profusion of life around him, Bernal Paniagua Guerrero focused his gaze on a single 20-foot tree, placing a tape measure around the spindly trunk and calling a number out to his sister, Jeanette Paniagua Guerrero, who recorded it on a clipboard.

With that, the tree, a black manú just over two inches in diameter, entered the database of the world’s scientific knowledge. Its growth will be tracked year by year until it dies a natural death — or somebody decides to chop it down for the valuable, rot-resistant wood.

The Paniaguas and their co-worker, Enrique Salicette Nelson, work for an American scientist, Robin Chazdon, helping her chronicle a remarkable comeback.

Cuatro Rios, the forest they were standing in one recent day, looked, to a casual eye, as if it must have been there forever. Trees stretched as high as 100 feet, and a closed canopy of leaves cast the understory into deep shade — one hallmark of a healthy tropical rain forest.

In fact, the land was a cattle pasture only 45 years ago. When the market for beef fell, the owners let the forest reclaim it. Now the Cuatro Rios forest, near the tiny village of La Virgen, is a study plot for Dr. Chazdon, an ecologist from the University of Connecticut, who has become a leading voice in arguing that large-scale forest regrowth can help to solve some of the world’s problems.

Indeed, forests are already playing an outsize role in limiting the damage humans are doing to the planet.

For the entire geologic history of the earth, carbon in various forms has flowed between the ground, the air and the ocean. A large body of scientific evidence shows that the amount of carbon in the air at any given time, in the form of carbon dioxide, largely determines the planet’s temperature.

The burning of coal, oil and natural gas effectively moves carbon out of the ground and into the active carbon cycle operating at the earth’s surface, causing a warming of the globe that scientists believe is more rapid now than in any similar period of geologic history.

Though the higher temperatures are causing extensive problems, including heat waves and rising seas, the increasing carbon dioxide also acts as a sort of plant fertilizer. The gas is the primary source of the carbon that plants, using the energy of sunlight, turn into sugars and woody tissue.

Scientific reports suggest that 20 percent to 25 percent of the carbon dioxide that people are pumping into the air is being absorbed by trees and other plants, which keep taking up more and more even as human emissions keep rising.

But when people damage or destroy forests, that puts carbon dioxide into the air, worsening the warming problem. Historically, forests have been chopped down all over the planet. Now they are actually regrowing across large stretches of the Northern Hemisphere, and the most worrisome destruction is occurring in relatively poor countries in the tropics.

Scientists concluded decades ago that deforestation must be stopped, both to limit climate change and to conserve the world’s biological diversity. These days, they are also coming to understand the huge potential of new or recovering forests to help pull dangerous emissions out of the air.

“Every time I hear about a government program that is going to spend billions of dollars on some carbon capture and storage program, I just laugh and think, what is wrong with a tree?” said Nigel Sizer, director of forest programs at the World Resources Institute, a think tank in Washington. “All you have to do is look out the window, and the answer is there.”

Scientists are still trying to figure out how much of a difference an ambitious forest regrowth strategy could make. But a leading figure in the discussion — Richard A. Houghton, acting president of the Woods Hole Research Center in Massachusetts — has argued for turning some 1.2 billion acres of degraded or marginally productive agricultural land into forests.

That is an exceedingly ambitious figure, equal to about half the land in the United States. But researchers say it would be possible, in principle, if farming in poor countries became far more efficient. Some countries have already pledged to restore tens of millions of acres.

Dr. Houghton believes that if his target were pursued aggressively, and coupled with stronger efforts to protect existing forests, the rapid growth of carbon dioxide in the atmosphere could be slowed sharply or possibly even halted.

That, he believes, would give the world a few decades for an orderly transition away from fossil fuels. “This is not a solution, but it would help us buy some time,” Dr. Houghton said.

Finding an Effective Tactic

The Amazon, spreading across nine countries of South America, is the world’s largest tropical forest. The majority of the Amazon is in Brazil, which for decades treated it as a limitless resource.

Sometimes aided by United States government funding for development, Brazil encouraged road construction that effectively opened the forest to settlement, including illegal land grabs. Crews harvested select trees for timber and then cut or burned the rest to make room for cattle ranching and soybean farming.

Deforestation was so rampant that by the middle of the last decade, 17 percent of the Amazon had been cut, and millions more acres had been damaged. Environmental groups worldwide sounded the alarm, as did indigenous and traditional peoples whose ancestors had lived in the forest for thousands of years.

Deforesting the World

Since the dawn of civilization, humans have destroyed or badly damaged perhaps three-quarters of the world’s forests. This map shows loss and gain of forest cover over the last decade, including mechanical removal, fire and disease. Since the 19th century, forests have been re-established across large areas of the Northern Hemisphere, but in the tropics, they are still under broad assault.

As deforestation hit a peak in 2004, the Brazilian government came under international condemnation, and it began trying to halt the destruction. In 2006, environmental groups found a way to bring marketplace pressure to bear.

Crops grown on deforested land, notably soybeans, were being used to produce meat for Western companies like McDonald’s, creating a potential liability in the eyes of their customers. Greenpeace invaded McDonald’s restaurants and plastered posters of Ronald McDonald wielding a chain saw. That company and others responded by pressuring their suppliers, who imposed a moratorium on products linked to deforestation.

The Brazilian government used satellites to step up its monitoring, cut off loans to some farmers in counties with high deforestation rates, and used aggressive police tactics against illegal logging and clearing. Brazilian state governments and large business groups, including some beef producers, joined the efforts.

The intense pressure resulted in a sharp drop in deforestation, by 83 percent, over the past decade. Moreover, the Brazilian ministry of agriculture began to focus on helping farmers raise yields without needing additional land.

Not only were millions of acres of forest saved, but the carbon dioxide kept out of the air by Brazil’s success also far exceeded anything any other country had ever done to slow global warming. Norway put up substantial funds to aid the effort, but otherwise, Brazil did it without much international help.

With so little money from abroad, the gains in Brazil are considered fragile, especially if a future government were to lose interest in forest protection. Daniel C. Nepstad, an American forest scientist who has worked in Brazil for decades and now heads a group called the Earth Innovation Institute, said, “We could still see a huge slide backward.”

The Next Big Test

With deforestation somewhat under control in Brazil, Indonesia is becoming a big test of the environmental groups’ strategy.

Deforestation is rampant there, with people chopping down even national forests with impunity. The biggest reason is to clear land for the lucrative production of vegetable oil from the fruit of a type of palm tree.

Just a handful of companies sell the oil — used in a wide array of consumer goods like soap, ice cream, confections and lipstick — into global markets, and the environmental groups have been targeting these big middlemen. Companies controlling the bulk of the global palm-oil trade have recently signed no-deforestation pledges, and Indonesia’s influential chamber of commerce recently threw its weight behind a demand for new forest legislation in the country.

But even if Indonesia takes strong action, there are fears that the gains could prove fleeting. The economic incentive to chop down forests remains powerful, and crackdowns on deforestation can just spur profiteers to go elsewhere.

“Asian companies are rushing into Africa and grabbing as much land as possible,” said Mr. Hurowitz, of Climate Advisers. “That’s kind of scary.”

Still, with hopes running high that the world may finally be rounding a corner on the deforestation problem, attention is turning to the possibility of large-scale forest regrowth.

Dr. Chazdon believes strongly in halting deforestation, but she says that many of the plots of old-growth forest that have already been saved are too small to ensure the long-term survival of the plants and animals in them. Forest expansion onto nearby land could help to conserve that biological diversity, in addition to pulling carbon dioxide out of the air.

But the strategy presents many challenges. It will require abandoning marginal agricultural land, meaning the remaining farms will have to become more efficient to keep up with demand for food, as well as a growing demand for biofuels. And some scientists have warned that if the strategy is poorly executed, agriculture could merely be pushed away from forests into grasslands or savannas, which themselves contain huge amounts of carbon that could escape into the atmosphere.

Costa Rica, a “green republic” famous worldwide for its efforts to protect forests, shows how difficult a forest restoration strategy can be in practice.

Legal protection is minimal for much of the forest that has grown there in recent decades. The workers who help Dr. Chazdon track her plots often see telltale signs of illegal hunting and logging, and they say the authorities are lax about stopping it. “So many ugly things happen that we just lose a little faith,” said Mr. Paniagua, one of the workers.

Moreover, a wave of pineapple production to supply a growing world market is sweeping the country, tempting many owners to reclear their land. Growing Chinese demand, in particular, has raised the fear that “the whole of Costa Rica will be paved in pineapples,” said Carlos de la Rosa, director of La Selva Biological Station, a famed research outpost where Dr. Chazdon does much of her work.

But for now, the second-growth forests of Costa Rica, covering roughly 14 percent of the land area of the country, at least show what may be possible if the world gets more ambitious about tackling global warming. Brazil, too, is beginning to see regrowth on a large scale in the Amazon, and is spending millions to restore forests along its Atlantic coast.

Decades of watching the Costa Rican forests recover have taught Dr. Chazdon that, at least in areas that still have healthy forests nearby to supply seeds, the main thing human beings need to do is just get out of the way. After all, forests were recovering from fires and other natural calamities long before people ever came along to chop them down.

“The forests know how to do this,” Dr. Chazdon said. “They’ve been doing it forever, growing back.”

Correction: December 25, 2014
An article on Wednesday about conserving and restoring forests as a strategy to fight climate change referred incorrectly in some editions to the relative size of the Amazon forest. The Amazon is about two-thirds the size of the lower 48 American states; it does not cover more land than the lower 48 states.

Sunday, September 14, 2014

The Grand Mosque - Abu Dhabi

27th August 2014

A nice warm day in Abu Dhabi, and we were taken off to see the Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque, with its 82 domes and the spectacular white marble facade. Conceived by the current ruler's father as a monument to "tolerance. love and mutual understanding" no stone has been left unturned (quite literally) in implementing and putting together this vision.

Opened in 2007, there were shades of the Taj Mahal and the Blue Mosque for me.

An imposing complex that can be seen from quite a distance. The third floor of the northern minaret houses a whole library!

The "towers" in the outer walkway house the elaborate lighting system. There are some 22 of these around the mosque. We went at midday, but it seems that the night illumination is quite spectacular, with the lighting reflecting the phases of the moon.