Wednesday, May 28, 2014
Monday, May 26, 2014
Thursday, May 22, 2014
Bats and trees
Chennai's historic batcave
GEETA PADMANABHAN
The Egmore Museum does not just house priceless artefacts from the past. It also houses colonies of fruit bats in the trees outside, as a plaque informs visitors
Bats! By the hundreds and thousands! They hang by their feet from the tall tamarind trees, darkening the sky through sheer numbers. They occupy every branch, every twig, with clusters of mini leaves protecting them from the mid-day sun. At those heights, there is nothing to steal into their day-long siesta. The fluttering of wings in that upside-down stance is hardly a bother.
I am in Batland in the backyard of Chennai's museum in Egmore. The bustle of visitors isn't felt here; the steady silence is broken only by the occasional shriek of the birds above. Are these hunter-mammals exchanging notes of last night's adventure, jockeying for the best places to hang from?
These are the Indian flying fox and the greater short-nosed fruit bats, says the plaque nearby, covered with droppings. The WWF has found an insectivore as well. Their weight ranges from 0.75-1 kg, and since they like to roost in large, thousand-strong groups, they pick their trees carefully. Strangely, their wings seem relatively short for their size, but this helps them fly well, says biologist Dr. T. D. Babu. Yes, when individuals roost, they like to keep their distance and fight for space aggressively using teeth, thumbs and “vocalisations”. The fluttering of wings, he tells me, is actually a fanning action to cool down in high temperatures.
From the ground I can't see their fur, but Dr. Babu says they are short, with the longest strands appearing on the head. The colour and texture of the fur vary, depending on sex and age, the male fur growing thicker than the female's. You know you are looking at a young one when the fur is grey-brown, and an adult if it looks lighter. The fur on the head could be reddish orange or shades darker to it, while the underbelly is typically light brown to red. The one chick the female gives birth to clings to the mother for the first few days, and is weaned off within three months.
“One feature distinguishes the fruit bat from other species,” says Dr. Babu. “They have good eyesight while others use echolocation to catch their prey mid-air. Their sense of smell is also well-developed (helps when your diet is restricted to nectar, flowers, pollen and fruits).” Friends who have mango and banana trees in their yard have spotted fruit-bats flying in, but the fliers are partial to figs and guavas as well. They have been seen smartly tearing off the skin with their teeth to reach the pulp. Though silent during flight (in a radius of 40 miles), they can produce high decibel screeches when biting into food.
“We have a huge colony (of around 1,000 plus) at the Theosophical Society,” naturalist Geetha Jaikumar tells me. “They hang out on a banyan tree and others nearby.” I remember them. They appeared suddenly and settled at the society about 10-12 years ago. One can see them flying out at late evening – a spectacular sight! “TS has an extensive orchard of a variety of fruit trees — mango, sapota, jackfruit, gooseberry, guava — could be one reason for their presence there apart from a safe haven.”
I recall the gardener reminding me sombrely, “Fine they are here, but it means a large tree somewhere has been felled forcing them to find a home elsewhere.”
Alas, these mammals are listed as near-threatened species in IUCN (International Union for Conservation of Nature) red list, their main threats coming from loss of habitat (trees) and loss of fruit trees to hunt from. And gardeners — commercial or otherwise — do try to protect their fruit crops, right? But we wipe them out at our own peril; they serve in seed dispersal, pollination and pest control.
As Prof. Chandrasekaran, a bird specialist points out, properly managed, bird-related tourism activities like bird-watching or bird photography can serve as the foundation for a mutually beneficial relationship between people and birds. We have to link local communities to save sites, species and habitats so it can enhance local livelihoods.
A thought strikes me as I walk through the museum's bat grove.
Not far from the spot, in a daring robbery, thieves reportedly broke into the Bronze Gallery on the night of December 27-28, 2013 and carted away “priceless” replicas of Mughal coins and equally valuable artefacts. Investigating officers said they had CCTV footage of a man smashing a window on the top floor from inside the building and another climbing through the window from a nearby tree. Were any of the fruit-hunters witness to the criminal act? Is there a batman in the museum's Gotham grove?
Thursday, April 10, 2014
We don't need one more government complex do we? Not in Pallikarani for sure.
Pallikaranai marshland: Concern over wetland development - The Hindu
Pallikaranai marshland: Concern over wetland development - The Hindu
Pallikaranai marshland: Concern over wetland development
K. Manikandan
TOPICS
PWD conducted soil tests near Pallikaranai marsh, recently
Environmentalists are up in arms against the public
works department (PWD) for conducting soil tests in Sholinganallur, near
the Pallikaranai marshland, for the construction of a complex to house
government offices.
works department (PWD) for conducting soil tests in Sholinganallur, near
the Pallikaranai marshland, for the construction of a complex to house
government offices.
According to members of Nature
Trust, PWD has begun testing soil near Perumbakkam Lake opposite the
special economic zone (SEZ) on Perumbakkam Main Road, close to
Sholinganallur intersection.
Trust, PWD has begun testing soil near Perumbakkam Lake opposite the
special economic zone (SEZ) on Perumbakkam Main Road, close to
Sholinganallur intersection.
“Many NGOs have been
fighting for several years, urging the State government to protect
whatever is left of the southern-most corner of Pallikaranai marshland.
Perumbakkam wetland serves as a temporary home to several migratory and
rare birds,” says K.V.R.K. Thirunaran of Nature Trust.
fighting for several years, urging the State government to protect
whatever is left of the southern-most corner of Pallikaranai marshland.
Perumbakkam wetland serves as a temporary home to several migratory and
rare birds,” says K.V.R.K. Thirunaran of Nature Trust.
However,
officials say they are not destroying the protected wetland and that
the government complex will come up on 11 acres of land classified as
‘tharisu’ (unassessed dry waste) land, part of 70 hectares that belong
to the revenue department.
officials say they are not destroying the protected wetland and that
the government complex will come up on 11 acres of land classified as
‘tharisu’ (unassessed dry waste) land, part of 70 hectares that belong
to the revenue department.
Even the 377 acres, on
which the SEZ located on the opposite side stands, belongs to the same
classification. Only rainwater stagnates there during the monsoon and it
is not part of the marshland, says a PWD official. The soil tests were
taken up only after a government circular was issued, he says.
which the SEZ located on the opposite side stands, belongs to the same
classification. Only rainwater stagnates there during the monsoon and it
is not part of the marshland, says a PWD official. The soil tests were
taken up only after a government circular was issued, he says.
An
initial estimated amount of Rs. 2 crore has been allotted for
constructing the building that will house the office of the
Sholinganallur tahsildar (now functioning from a rented building), a
sub-treasury and other government offices.
initial estimated amount of Rs. 2 crore has been allotted for
constructing the building that will house the office of the
Sholinganallur tahsildar (now functioning from a rented building), a
sub-treasury and other government offices.
There is
hardly any vacant plot along Rajiv Gandhi Salai (IT corridor) for
constructing additional school buildings, say officials. For instance,
the Panchayat Union Primary School in Perungudi was recently upgraded to
a middle school, but there is no space to build any structures further.
hardly any vacant plot along Rajiv Gandhi Salai (IT corridor) for
constructing additional school buildings, say officials. For instance,
the Panchayat Union Primary School in Perungudi was recently upgraded to
a middle school, but there is no space to build any structures further.
Sunday, April 6, 2014
A parental goodbye to the Valley
Our last visit to the Valley, home to our son these last two years, but a connection that began in the Deepavali of 2010.
A place we instantly fell in love with as a family, a place where everytime we visited my faith in humanity was recharged, a place where gentle positive energy flowed.
And then we left, our connection as parents done with.
But we will be back I am sure, to this place where, quietly and without fuss, experiments in education and sustainable living go on, and where I learnt to let go and watch.
A place we instantly fell in love with as a family, a place where everytime we visited my faith in humanity was recharged, a place where gentle positive energy flowed.
But we will be back I am sure, to this place where, quietly and without fuss, experiments in education and sustainable living go on, and where I learnt to let go and watch.
Wednesday, March 19, 2014
Sunday, March 16, 2014
The Great Wall at Mutianyu
New developments stretched for miles |
We headed northeast from Beijing to see the Great Wall at Mutianyu on our friend Danny's advice. Badaling, closer and to the northwest of Beijing is the more popular, crowded and touristy bit we were told.
So, the plan was to check out of our Beijing hotel and head out to the Great Wall and then return to catch the evening train to Xian.
Turns out that it was the Dragon Boat Festival weekend, and as we hit the highway, there were several others heading out as well!
Our driver, recommended by Danny, knew English, but was not loquacious by any means. Probably did not want to put his English to the test!
But it was a great help having him as he took us door to door, and also pointed us in the right direction at every step of the way.
We stayed on the Jincheng Expressway, and it felt like forever before we truly left Beijing and entered the countryside.
Suddenly, there was farmland all around |
Bohai is the township where Mutianyu village is located. Reportedly Mutianyu gets tourist income, but the rest of the township is not in great shape. |
We arrived at Mutianyu and found that it was raining and the thought of walking up made me rather miserable. We had toyed with the idea of taking the cablecar up (it meant less time taken) and the weather sealed it. For 80 RMB a head, we got ourselves cable car tickets.
There are not many pictures of the village because we did not take the cameras out in the incessant drizzle.
The cable car works with super efficiency and cars keep coming and taking visitors up, so there was no real waiting period, and we were up and out in some fifteen twenty minutes, all rather painless and untiring.
A good thing, becuase this is what stretched ahead of us!
Enjoy the pictures
So, here we were, on the Great Wall of China. Remember the Billy Joel song? |
Imagine the Chinese soldiers of old patrolling this, and keeping a nervous eye out for the marauding Mongols. And now, a happy giggly bunch of tourists walk the ramparts! |
The Mutianyu section has been restored as recently as the 1980s, and was also worked on during the Ming dynasty |
What a fortune must have been spent on building this and then maintaining troops on it. |
The Wall stands right on top of the mountain ridge, and from above, there seems to be miles of forest |
We were lucky with the rain and drizzle, which held off when we were atop. It also cleared the air, and improved our visibility. A friend of mine said that when she visited, thre was so much mist/fog that they did not have a clear view from above. |
We spent a few hours climbing up, and then down the length of this section. At some places, the steps were steep and treacherous. I was glad to have negotiated this when my knees were still intact. |
It was made of stone in the early days, and then the Mings replaced sections with bricks. |
Thrilling and breathtaking. |
My only regret was I saw not one bird despite that extensive greenery and forest cover. I scanned the skies and looked hopefully into the foliage but even the magpies of Beijing were not to be seen.
Was it the rain? Was I not looking in the right place? One blog said that the unrestored bits have more bird life than the restored bits.
And then just as we decided it was time to go, there was a rumble, and a thunderstorm broke over our heads. We were at the head of the queue going down in the cablecar, but had to wait for the storm to abate, before they allowed us on.
If you please, we were in this car going down! |
A last view from the cablecar |
A walk through the only bit of stalls, filled with koala bears, and great wall t shirts |
Old Chinese saying: "You are only a hero when you climb the Great Wall." I wonder if cablecars qualify!
And then before we knew it, we were back on the expressway.
An Elantra cab! |
I was totally impressed. He kept changing direction and roads to get us to the station on time.
Our ride seemed never ending, and we were int he outskirts of the city for what seemed like forever.
Beijing has several stations, and we were headed to Beijing West. Our cabbie had never been to this station, but he found it with just that electronic map of his, and dropped us at the gate, well in time.
Read about the station and our travels in Xian, as Sekar writes.
Thursday, March 13, 2014
Yihe Yuan, the summer palace of Cixi
10th June 2013. Beijing
A day of parks and gardens. Beihai in the morning, rush back to the hotel, get on the metro and ride off to Beigongment station and arrive at the North Palace Gate of the Summer Palace, the quirky large royal garden with its fabulous Kunming Lake and its Buddhist hill.
Built, destroyed, rebuilt and now enjoyed by the Beijingers as a lovely gigantic green lung.
We entered via the North Gate, and this involved climbing the Buddhist hill right off. (Entry from the Eastern Gate circumvents this, I realised later)
It was a typical Beijing evening, with no sign of sun or sky, but what amazed me was the trees. Whereever I looked, I saw them, large and green. What oases these royal parks now are for the urban jungle that is Beijing.
We (my husband and I) went in without any pre-reading, hoping the boards would tell us where we were and what we were seeing, but it was only later that I realised that this was the Suzhou Market Street. Suzhou is a city in eastern China, famous historically for its canals, gardens, and was a happening metro in centuries past.
The story goes that the Emperor who first built this complex in the eighteenth century had a concubine from Suzhou. And she was sad as she missed her city, and so, as emperors are wont to do, he ordered the building of this street so his favourite concubine could feel at home, go shopping and be happy generally. Oh by the way, supposedly the concubine was a Buddhist nun to begin with, and there's a temple somewhere for her to pray and live as well!
The complex is large and, though thousands mill around, it hardly feels crowded.
The Longevity Hill houses the complex called the Four Great Regions with Buddhist temples of Tibetan and Han origins. From what I understood, buildings have been burned down, restored in parts, and a large scale restoration took place quite recently, so we were fortunate.
Above these steps is the "Hall of the Buddha confirming his Doctrine", and symbolises Mount Sumeru. This was also burnt down in 1860 during the occupation by the Allied Forces and rebuilt by emperor Gunagxu, who if I'm not mistaken was Cixi's nephew.
As I caught my breath after climbing those stairs, I looked around at what is probably typical of Tibetan architecture? Seemed different from the Qing and Ming stuff we had seen I felt.
Through the trees and the rocks we spied Tibetan pagodas, lovely Chinese roofs and a whole host of buildings, which we did not go into, since like typical tourists we had just a few hours before rushing off elsewhere.
From atop the hill, we had a lovely panoramic view of this part of the sprawl of Beijing. On one side, (picture above) in the foreground was a large platform on which a temple had stood, and in the distance were the trees that blocked out the city from view.
On the other (picture below) was the Kunming lake. Far off in the distance was the new city.
I wondered how the city looked in those early days of the gardens. Large wooden mansions? Hutongs with hand-drawn rickshaws?
And did those royals really climb this hill?!
And as we went to the other side I had my answer, the approach from the other side was a gentle undulating "path" that wound up the hillside, with trees and temples interspersed.
This is how the royalty probably came up the hill!
We probably took the service entrance!
We came down to the living quarters area of the complex. Each room had a name - Yiyun house, Yulang Tang and several more.
Empress Longyu, the mother of the last emperor spent a lot of time here, and I think signed the abdication papers also here.
Looks like she was not a favourite of the emperor, but was a favourite of Cixi the dowager and Regent.
Nanhu Island is manmade and is shaped like a tortoise and houses the Guangrun Lingyu Ci temple. Better known as the Temple of Timely Rains and Extensive Moisture!
The tortoise is again a symbol of Longevity, and looks like Cixi loved this island and the temple, her favourite starting point for visits.
We missed the marble boat built by Cixi using Navy funds if you please. The story goes that she built herself a marble boat on the banks of the lake calling it naval development ha ha!
It was time to go, and we exited via the East Palace Gate, where we saw some more magnificent bronzes
Confucius says "One who is benevolent enjoys longevity".
Cixi probably had not heard that saying, or misunderstood what benevolence meant!
We wandered out, back to the station and on to Guamao, where we caught a glimpse of a typical evening in Beijing, street dancing et al.
A day of parks and gardens. Beihai in the morning, rush back to the hotel, get on the metro and ride off to Beigongment station and arrive at the North Palace Gate of the Summer Palace, the quirky large royal garden with its fabulous Kunming Lake and its Buddhist hill.
Built, destroyed, rebuilt and now enjoyed by the Beijingers as a lovely gigantic green lung.
We entered via the North Gate, and this involved climbing the Buddhist hill right off. (Entry from the Eastern Gate circumvents this, I realised later)
It was a typical Beijing evening, with no sign of sun or sky, but what amazed me was the trees. Whereever I looked, I saw them, large and green. What oases these royal parks now are for the urban jungle that is Beijing.
The North Gate |
The Suzhou Market Street |
We (my husband and I) went in without any pre-reading, hoping the boards would tell us where we were and what we were seeing, but it was only later that I realised that this was the Suzhou Market Street. Suzhou is a city in eastern China, famous historically for its canals, gardens, and was a happening metro in centuries past.
The story goes that the Emperor who first built this complex in the eighteenth century had a concubine from Suzhou. And she was sad as she missed her city, and so, as emperors are wont to do, he ordered the building of this street so his favourite concubine could feel at home, go shopping and be happy generally. Oh by the way, supposedly the concubine was a Buddhist nun to begin with, and there's a temple somewhere for her to pray and live as well!
The first set of steps leading up to the Longevity Hill and the Four Great Regions |
The Longevity Hill houses the complex called the Four Great Regions with Buddhist temples of Tibetan and Han origins. From what I understood, buildings have been burned down, restored in parts, and a large scale restoration took place quite recently, so we were fortunate.
Another sttep of steps to get to the top of the hill |
As I caught my breath after climbing those stairs, I looked around at what is probably typical of Tibetan architecture? Seemed different from the Qing and Ming stuff we had seen I felt.
Isnt that steep?! |
As we looked back, this was the large platform where you can see two sutra pillars and two lions, all that remain of a large temple complex that has not been rebuilt |
From atop the hill, we had a lovely panoramic view of this part of the sprawl of Beijing. On one side, (picture above) in the foreground was a large platform on which a temple had stood, and in the distance were the trees that blocked out the city from view.
On the other (picture below) was the Kunming lake. Far off in the distance was the new city.
I wondered how the city looked in those early days of the gardens. Large wooden mansions? Hutongs with hand-drawn rickshaws?
And did those royals really climb this hill?!
Kunming lake with the seventeen arches bridge and the tortoise island in the middle....and modern Beijing in the distance. |
This is how the royalty probably came up the hill!
We probably took the service entrance!
The Tower of Buddhist Incense |
As we descended this path, various roofs popped out most invitingly, but we did not have time to go an explore all of them. It was past five in the evening, and closing time was just an hour away. We still had the lake area to explore.
The Long Gallery, a rather long corridor, filled with lovely paintings and decorated with motifs |
We came down to the living quarters area of the complex. Each room had a name - Yiyun house, Yulang Tang and several more.
Empress Longyu, the mother of the last emperor spent a lot of time here, and I think signed the abdication papers also here.
Looks like she was not a favourite of the emperor, but was a favourite of Cixi the dowager and Regent.
Yulang Tang - the Hall of Jade Ripples, where Guangxu worked and carried out matters of state |
Yiyun House (I think) |
From the seventeen arch bridge. As the skies darkened and the light faded, it really made for a pretty sight |
The Longevity Hill complex seen from across the lake, from Nanhu Island |
Nanhu Island is manmade and is shaped like a tortoise and houses the Guangrun Lingyu Ci temple. Better known as the Temple of Timely Rains and Extensive Moisture!
The tortoise is again a symbol of Longevity, and looks like Cixi loved this island and the temple, her favourite starting point for visits.
We missed the marble boat built by Cixi using Navy funds if you please. The story goes that she built herself a marble boat on the banks of the lake calling it naval development ha ha!
The Bronze Ox on the lake front. Erected to stave off floods, |
Joyrides on the lake reminded me of Ooty! |
But this was definitely Chinese, a dragon boat, and the lake walkway in the distnace. |
The bronze dragons that are the symbol of royalty |
The mythical Qilin, a good omen for the Chinese. It has a dragon's head, lion's tail, horns of a deer, and cattle hooves and the body is covered with scales. In legend, the Qilin/Kylin guards against destruction by fire. |
The court area, which we should have come in by, but we were exiting by! |
Stone of the God of Longevity |
Confucius says "One who is benevolent enjoys longevity".
Cixi probably had not heard that saying, or misunderstood what benevolence meant!
We wandered out, back to the station and on to Guamao, where we caught a glimpse of a typical evening in Beijing, street dancing et al.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)
Bangalore diaries - Kaikondrahalli lake visits
I visited 2023 November, so it has been close to a year . 26th October 2024 8-10am To my delight, I discovered a skywalk across the Sarjapur...
-
I came across this essay from Birdcount.in, and began reading it with initial scepticism, I mean who can't tell a Little from a Large ...
-
On our recent visit to the Sundarbans, we saw several of these large crocodiles basking in the sun, including some baby ones. I marvelled a...