The silly seed rhyme

Don’t moan about the heat
Stop looking at your feet
For up in the trees
Swaying in the breeze
Are seeds and flowers, a visual treat.
Peltophorum pterocarpum - copper pod
Wherever I look there are copper pods
Hanging from a Peltophorum that nods
Dropping yellow flowers to form a carpet
A sight that I can never forget.

Delonix regia - Gulmohar

Look, over there is the Gulmo-har
Without its red flowers does it look below par?
Those brown seed pods, almost two-feet long
Do not induce a song
But did you know, they come from Madagascar?


Silk Cotton

That silk-cotton tree is completely leaf-less
But oh no, it is definitely not life-less!
See those fat pods just waiting to burst
To every corner seeds dispersed
And into your pillow the cotton may progress!

Mango flowers

Mango trees have flowered
And so we may be showered
With fruits so sweet in the month of May
Oh yes, hip hip hurray!

Neem flowers

Was there ever a tree so supreme
Like Azadirachta indica, aka Neem?
Its resistant to drought
And carries much clout
Used in so many potions and creams!

Tabebuia pod
Tabebuia trees in Madras abound
The purple trumpet flowers everywhere are found
But I found the seeds, and they are dehiscent,
Opening to release their contents!

As the temperature rises
I know there are more surprises
So keep your eyes open,
Ladies and gentlemen
As the trees put on more guises.

Jaisalmer Desert National Park

Mr Ramanan, along with his family, visited the Jaisalmer Desert National Park earlier this year. Jaisalmer is in the western part of Rajasthan in the heart of the Thar Desert. An outpost in the desert, it has its share of forts and palaces as well. In fact, most tourists visit Jaisalmer to get a feel of the desert, and to see its fort, havelis and the local culture.

The Jaisalmer DNP is a large sanctuary and one of the important ones in India, showcasing desert flora and fauna. So, here is his trip report, which makes for interesting reading! And of course his wonderful photos.

We in the south are so familiar with rain-fed forests like Top slip and kalakaddu, so a first-time visit to a DNP leads us to wonder what living thing can there possibly be, in such a bone-dry area? We reached Jaisalmer by the only train which runs daily from Delhi to Jaisalmer.

We boarded the train at Jaipur around 12.30 in the night and one has to be very careful to board the right bogie as the train splits in to two! One goes to Barmer and the other Jaisalmer. After 13 hours we were in Jaisalmer, and after Jodhpur on the either side of the track from the train itself we started seeing desert creatures like peacock, demoiselle crane, vultures and foxes.

From here we have proceeded to Sam Dhani which is about 50 KM from Jaisalmer where we stayed with RTDC resort. As we didn’t have the time to go DNP on the same evening we enjoyed a package tourist thamasha at Sam Dhani. The package includes a drive on the camel to sand dunes, where we were allowed to stay and enjoy the sunset. We were then taken to another resort to witness a local cultural programme for two hours.

The next day we could enter the DNP only after 7.30 am as the people are reluctant to start very early morning. To get into the park a permit is compulsory, as we knew about it we got it from the Director DNP at Jaisalmer itself. For an Indian for a day permit cost about Rs 285 and for foreigners it is difficult as they have to get first permission from the district magistrate. Then, based on this the Director will issue permit for them and it is expensive for them.

The drive to DNP is 30 odd KM from Sam Dhani. Along the way, we saw several BSF and army camps as the DNP is situated close to the Pakistan border. Our vehicle is not permitted inside and the only mode of sight seeing inside the park is by camel cart and it is really indeed eco-tourism!

Laggar Falcon

The terrain is made up of rocks, compact salt lake bottoms and sand. Huge sand dunes form about 20 percent of the park but you will probably not get a chance to see it. The flora comprises of Dhok, Ronj, Salai, Bear and Palm trees. We proceeded on the camel cart and inspite of the open terrain we were unable to locate any of the game there as all of them are so well camouflaged. So in the first drive we solely depended on the cart driver. He described all the desert species in the local language.

Quails
On the second day our eyes got used to the terrain and we ourselves started spotting and enjoying all the birds and animals. We sighted various types of vultures - white backed, long billed, cinerous,white scavenger and the red headed. Also, all the three sand grouses - black bellied, spotted and chestnut coloured.

Immature Egyptian vulture?
Cinerous vulture - seen only in semi-arid terrain
White-rumped or white-backed vulture- Gyps bengalensis

Eurasian collared doveWe also sighted falcons and lot of eagles which I couldn’t ID. Brown-headed ravens, bulbuls, house sparrows, shrikes, doves and desert wheater are commonly sighted. And finally of course the Great Indian Bustard very far off. They are very shy and photographing them inside the park, for that matter any birds or animals is very difficult as they are not at photographic distances.

Great Indian Bustard

Chinkara and foxes are commonly sighted inside. We saw two kinds of foxes the one with black tipped tail is known as Desert fox and another with white tailed which is slightly smaller than the other one is Bengal fox.

Desert fox

I didn’t make a note of all the species as I was concentrating on photography and still I was sure that I would have seen more than 80 species of birds and three species of animals!
Cinkara - male and female

A dust storm started on the second day evening. This was an experience in itself. We couldn’t get to the park but we witnessed the beautiful sight of changing shape of sand dunes from our resort. The storm covered what we tourists spread over it like plastic cups and bags and empty bottles and we saw the real beauty of the desert. But the sad part of it was that the next day again our tourists invaded the area with more and more of plastic bags and bottles. The “YELLOW BEAUTY”, as the local call the sand dunes lasted only for a few hours.

Sand dunes after the dust storm

The next day morning again we ventured into the DNP but sighting was very poor because of the dust storm but we were enthralled by the camel cart driver who insisted that we should get married to many girls so that we will have lot of boy children and further narrated that he was married to four wives and had more than fourteen children!! I hope at least he will remember his number of children.

Feeding treepie

From there we travelled back to Jaipur and made a one day trip to Sariska Tiger reserve only in vain. We didn’t see the radio collared Ranthambhore tigers but when we were inside a check post which is called as Kalli Katti, one of the jeep drivers and the forest guard asked us do you have biscuits with you? So we gave him a few and immediately he ground it into a fine powder, asked my daughter to spread both hands and poured them on her hands. From nowhere about 30 tree pies emerged and without any hesitation started feeding from my daughters’ hands.

We really enjoyed it but on our way back I saw the instruction board of the forest department which instructed tourist not to feed the animals. Did it apply to the birds as well?

Mugger-Sariska
Grey Langur relaxing - Sariska
Black-tailed Godwit - Sariska
Sunset - Jaisalmer

Mysore clock vine - Thunbergia mysorensis

Spectacular and strange
Yellow, rust and orange.

Fern leaf Jacaranda in Yercaud

Arittapatti, Tamil Brahmi and Lakulisa

Continued from here.

Dec 19th 2009

More rocks and more discoveries!

After some off-road driving we arrived at Arittapatti village, in Melur taluk. Once again there was the side-by-side existence of old Hindu relics and vestiges of Jainism.

We visited the Siva temple first and then came back to the Jain site, but I shall narrate in reverse order, since the Jains were there first!

The path was overgrown, indicating that it was a well-hidden secret, and the trees were filled with calls of treepies, sunbirds and the ubiquitous crow. The odd coucal was heard in the distance.

We clambered around the shrubbery around to the base of the large rock in the picture above.

Rounding the corner, we came across a single tirthankara, carved into the stone, with Vattuezhuttu under it.

But we were after more ancient markings - Tamil Brahmi script, brought to the south by these very Jains!

I must confess that when I saw them, I was sorely disappointed!

We reached a cave like this. It was smelly, dusty and on the whole unimpressive.

If somebody had not pointed out the writing, I surely would not have noticed it!

On the brow of the cave was some faint just visible markings!

Do you see it? They are important and ancient! Like cave art. Arittapatti has one of the earliest known Tamil Brahmi inscriptions.

Second Century BC! Dr I Mahadevan is an important name to know in this context. He was awarded a Padma Shri in 2009, and is a pioneering epigraphist in our land.

An epigraphist is one who spends his life deciphering ancient scripts. Now Dr Mahadevan specialised in early Tamil epigraphy and so basically deciphered the Tamil brahmi script!

Now isn't that cool! If I'm not mistaken, these faint markings on the wall relate to a chieftain from Nelveli, Velliyan, who "caused to be given the cave". Please forgive me, but I dont remember now whether that meant he lived there, or whether he gave the cave to someone else!

There's more on the Arittapatti inscriptions here.

My mind wandered back to those ancient times, trying to recreate how the area must have looked. A bustling centre, filled with travellers, monks and traders, and now only these slender tell-tale signs to mark their presence.

The lotus pond was an important symbol for the Jain travellers, I learnt. If they saw a pond, it meant that there would be a sacred image on the rock/hill, along the line drawn from the centre of the pond, due south. And a monastery would be in the vicinity.

The monasteries also played a role like a bank it appears, protecting money and goods for traders on their trips back and forth.

Commerce and free trade, at the turn of the century! There was an important trade route between Brahmagiri (now in Karnataka) and Uraiyur (near Trichy). I wonder if Arittapatti was on one of the extensions further south, from this.

From the second century BC, we shall fast forward to the seventh century AD and Lakulisa! The first time I heard of this interesting character.

We had to get to the rock on the other side of this little lake. This lake dries up in summer, which means that one can just walk across to the other side.

But we were visiting after the rains, and so we enjoyed the lovely sight of rippling water, grasses blowing in the wind, and lotus and lilies in the ponds.

We did not hurry, in fact we positively straggled and meandered, in small groups, examining the wildflowers, the strange rock formations, perandai and lemon grass growing wild.

Under the trees, a baby lay fast asleep in a cloth-cradle hung to a tree. We dont see that these days in our cities anymore.

Closeby, a man sat, tending his goats, and chewing on a stick with one hand, while staring at a cellphone in the other!

Some of the ladies asked him whether there was a signal here. He drawled in Tamil that he really didn't know since he didnt know how to use the phone, but was given it by is friend!

It was here that I was introduced to Lakulisa.

We came to this rock-cut Siva temple, now under the protection of the ASI - see the grille gates, but it is still used for worship by the locals and is called Idaichhi mandapam.

Let me narrate the legend of Lakulisa, believed to be the last avatar of Shiva by some.

I was fascinated by the story/legend, which goes like this:

Lakulisa was born in Gujarat, and when a little boy, was struck by illness and given up as dead. He was taken to the ghats to be cremated, when he is supposed to have "come back to life". He asked the people to leave him, and grew up in the ghats, with special mystical and spiritual powers.

Prof V expounded that his name could mean "na-kula-isa" - a god with no kula/ancestry. The popular meaning is that it stands for the lord with the club.

Anyway Lakulisa then grows up to become the proponent of the Pasupatha dharma, a strongly ascetic, Saivite way of life. He had four main sishyas - Kushika, Gargya, Maitreya and Kaurusha. It appears that these sishyas did a good job, because before long, the dharma had spread to various parts of India. Its still important in Nepal, isnt it? From what I've understood, the sect had a dark side, and the true practiser could carry out much black magic and sorcery!

The presence of this Lakulisa in Arittapatti indicates that his influence had spread so far south - in the eighth century...all very fascinating, when you consider what the nature of communication and transport was in those days.

I guess it was too austere and severe to survive among us comfort-loving Indians for long, and by the 15th century, the sect had shrunk, and became restricted to Gujarat, the Himlayan region including Nepal.

There isn't much written or codified about this mystery sect, which in its heyday in the eight to tenth centuries had a huge number of followers.

There is a book titled "The iconography and ritual of Śiva at Elephanta" By Charles Dillard Collins that mentions that Hsuan-tsang wrote about the considerable Pasupata sect activity during his travels!

And here he was - my first encounter with Lakulisa - in this rock carving, along side a huge lingam, carved out of natural rock.

How little I know about the country of my birth.