The little known treasures of Juna Mahal

Start from here.

High up on the hill behind the Udai Bilas Palace is the original Dungarpur palace, Juna Mahal, which dates to the 13th century, and was occupied until probably the late 19th century when the new lake-side palace was built.

We came across this lovely lady (left) inside that old, now uninhabited palace.  Doesn't she remind you of this stamp (on the right)?!

It was a strange and interesting visit to the Juna Mahal.

A view of Juna Mahal from above

The views from the outside told of a grand old palace, seven storeys high, fallen into neglect.

I imagined, dusty, empty rooms that must have witnessed palace intrigue, romance and war!

The base of the wall in the courtyard was encrusted with dancing figures, probably taken from elsewhere?

As I looked up, the lovely intricate work on the jharokas still caught my eye.

All we needed was a wizened old Rajput sitting at the entrance, ready to tell us the legends and stories of days gone by - of the possible visit of Jalaluddin Akbar, the machinations of the British and the valour of the Rajputs.  

Well, that was not to be, and we had to settle for the incumbent owner - who in all fairness, did a grand job!
He pointed out the grand arched entrance through which rode horses and probably camel.  I imagined fierce warriors guarding these gates, and while all was quiet and serene within, there was probably a noisy market outside!
Arched entrance

We saw the stables and the wide avenue for the horses, overlooked by the mahal.

We took narrow staircases - just sufficient for one - up.  The stairways always curved to the right, we were told.  An intruder, attacker was at an immediate disadvantage since there was no room to swing his right, sword-bearing arm.

So, the Juna Mahal had the feel of a fort to it, more than a palace

..... until we reach the halls.
The Darbar hall and the living chambers - what a riot of colour!

Murals on the walls, painted ceilings, carpets, engraved mirrors, they were all there!



Hunting scenes

Grand processions....

Walls with little windows, for the queens to look out, and covered with a variety of motifs and themes.

It had obviously been redone, renovated and re-embellished during its occupation.  Certain panels were in better shape than others, but just like the Seraglio at Topkapi in Istanbul, there was  a cheerful lack of continuity or theme.

There was a wall embedded with porcelain plates

Panels with lovely embedded decorations
gorgeously colourful floral motifs 
Fading Krishna and gopi scenes

A peep out of one of the windows revealed the dusty town below.

... we emerged onto the roof the mahal.  Further up the hill, we saw the walls of the fort, and a white temple wall stood out in stark contrast.
We travelled up the hill - in four-wheel drives, to be greeted by the middday sun, and this sight of the town of Dungarpur sprawling out at the base of the hill.

I imagined the area in the 13th and 14th centuries, probably scrub jungle, with tigers and deer.  

Lost now forever.

Read about the birds of Dungarpur here.

A weekend in Dungarpur

I have lost my voice.  I have to either whisper or talk in harsh croaks like a dying crow.  So, I have taken to silence (much to the relief of my immediate family I can see).  Writing about my experiences of the last month seem a more dignified option to squawking.

A few months ago,my husband casually mentioned a weekend reunion with his old boarding school buddies. I was quick and gracious in my "permission" to him to go without me - I mean how many times have we wives heard the same completely incredible (but true) stories? Then he sent me the link to the place of the intended visit - Udai Bilas Palace in Dungarpur. Hmmm, I could put up with a few story-reruns for this, I thought to myself. And, so it appears, did half a dozen other wives!

And so, there we were one Friday evening, after a three hour ride from Ahmedabad at the gates of the palace, my first visit to the state of Rajasthan, my first stay at a palace and my first live glimpse of turbaned Rajputs..... not to mention my first live view of the Fevicol ad - you know the one with all the turbaned, mustached, "stuck" to the bus, on the roof, sides and bonnet?!

My first glimpse of the palaceWe entered and walked through to the lakeside, and in the fading evening light these were our first views.
The large Ghaibsagar lake, full of ducks - mainly spot-billed - cormorants, egrets and moorhens!

At the far shore of the lake was a large Jain temple, highlighted by that little hillock behind it.

As we walked along the lakeshore to our room, we saw this little temple in the lake.  To be visited by boat, unless you fancy a swim across, that is.

Our host was suddenly excited, pointing to the little flock of ducks at the base of the temple wall.  Amongst the spot-billed ducks was a lone pair of migratory mallard ducks!  Next morning, they were gone, and I didn't see them at all after that first sighting.

The lake view of the palace. Our room was in the wing on the left, entering through the archway on the lakefront.

As we were to discover, the palace had many hidden, winding staircases, narrow and steep, and one of these led to our room.
The stairway to room No 5!
It curved away to more steps! This is the view from the top of the stairs! So, despite all the wining and dining we did, the stair climb to and from our room was a good calorie-burner!

The only hitch was if  one had heavy or large luggage - we didn't - I wonder how they would have carried it up.

One enters near the archway in the background into this large and spacious room, with a lovely view - through the windows on the left - of the lake.
The charming bathroom, which also had a view!
Dropped our bags here, and set off to explore.

The central courtyard
These are the older parts of the palace. Dates back to the mid 19th century, we were told.  (Udai Bilas is actually the new palace.  The original and older one, now unused, is the Juna Mahal.)

I have not seen any other Rajput palace up close, but from what the others said this palace was a fine example of Rajput architecture of that period, with these lovely pillars, finely carved little alcoves and verandahs and intricate panelling.

The hihglights in green-grey are a local stone called pareva. I really liked the texture of this stone.  The night was a full-moon night, and as we women sat around the courtyard chatting and laughing, the moon came into the space and cast a lovely light on the stone.  

It was quite magical.  I wonder if the men actually noticed, they were so busy catching up indoors with horror stories of their past, that I think they just missed the play of light and night on the palace!
The Ek Thambia Mahal sat in the middle of the courtyard, and looked like it was surrounded by water fountains and a moat in the old days. On the other side, there was a little walkway across the moat, so we could wander around the base of this little one-pillared mahal.  And guess what, there were little ceramic, English looking dolls nestled in niches in the pillars!

If you click on the picture and zoom in, you will notice that each pillar and the hanging eaves (I hope that's what they're called) have so much workmanship on them, all the way up and down the structure.

New additions
The swimming pool overlooking the lake..
..and this absolutely magical dining table!
Quite marvellous!  Open to the skies, above, with a water pool in the middle, which could be still and strewn with rose petals or have water bubbling through it.  All quite magical.  And the food...I have not had such good rasmalais anywhere I tell you.  And the special local rotis - lets just say I ate a fair amount!  
And as we trooped off to bed, this is what we saw.

More, on the Juna Mahal and the birds of Dungarpur, to follow.

Continued here.  

Mixed emotions

Sadness at what we have lost.
And gladness that there was a time when India had leaders like this....



His house.


A few hours in Ahmedabad and a hurried visit to Sabarmati.
No, I would not make an ashramite thats for sure, failing heavily on aswad, aparigraha and brahmacharya for sure... !

But why have we moved so far from ahimsa and sarvadharma samabhav?

For my son, niece and nephew - three children growing up in modern India, to remind them of a successful crusade without senseless violence.

May the new year bring more peace, world over.

Ballerinas in pink and spotted bills

More great photos from Mr Ramanan!

Click on the photos for an enlarged view.

Leggy ballerinas from Pulicat.

Getting ready for a performance?

Look straight ahead girls, nice and graceful now!

Oh, dash it, I lost my slipper!

(Well actually, they are feeding...but we could build a nice story around them!)

The spot-billed pelican at Nelapattu.

Oh leave me alone, I have a lot on my mind!

Lets get ready for the party!

Mummy, do my back feathers, please!

Not now, I'm busy.

Egyptian Vultures in Madras?!

Egyptian Vulture - India sc(1)-48
Originally uploaded by fveronesi1

There was a recent interesting exchange of emails on the MNS group regarding the Egyptian Vulture. I for one thought that a bird so named would be found in Egypt. I mean its logical isn't it?!

I discovered that these were (and the emphasis is on were) local common residents of my city. The email that started it off:

Hi,
The Bird List of Chennai, available at the MNS website lists Egyptian Vultures. Could someone please give information of when and where were the vultures seen in/around Chennai?
Thanks,
Kailash

And the interesting replies:

Egyptian vultures were seen in the city and outskirts until fairly recently. The Madras Museum has specimens taken from Kodambakkam and Douglas Dewar reports seeing them in Chennai in early 1900. I have seen them at Tirusulam (opposite the Airport) in the 1970's and suspect they were nesting there on the quarried hillside. even in late 1980's. I have seen these birds on the Chennai-Kancheepuram road, near Siriperumbudur or so. In the 1980's these birds were so common at Kanchipuram and every temple tower there would have a pair. I need to dig into my notes to get more details on other sightings. But I guess
this would suffice for the moment.
Best wishes,
Santharam

I have vivid recollections of seeing these vultures in the 70s and 80s on the road in and around Ranipet. They were a common sight and were reluctant to move even when approached by a vehicle. I also remember that skins of slaughtered animals used to be dried on the road side. Nobody could have imagined in those days that vultures would become so scarce that seeing one would be reported in the press.I wish I had thought of photographing them. I could have made full frame pictures without
difficulty!
With regards,
K V Sudhakar

I have seen these vultures on the road to Padappai from Vandalur in 1998. Dr.Gift Siromoney has written about these birds, after watching them for a number of days closely in Thirukalukkunram. Theodore Baskaran

The late Dr Gift Siromoney seems to be rather gifted! I recently read about him in Kamini's Tales of South India where his work on The Science of Kolams is highlighted. (Never mind that I did not comprehend most of the math!!)
And now I discover that he has written on a variety of bird-related topics as well.

About the Egyptian Vulture

I have not seen this bird, and have used this lovely photo from Fransesco Veronesi.  Please see his photo set on Birds of India - lovely collection of photos from his trips to our national parks, and includes the Khalij pheasant as well.  (His latest photos are from a trip to Kenya, so he gets around a bit, it would seem!)

Let me quote some Salim Ali:  

Called Manjal thirudi in Tamil.  Around two feet in size. All domestic duties shared, says Salim Ali.  Not bad for a bird that feeds on excrement and offal, I thought.

Has a "high-stepping, waddling gait".  Now this I have to see!

Maybe in Bharatpur?

Fingers crossed!

Vedanthangal Bird Sanctuary, southern India. 04 Dec 2008

Charlie of 10,000birds was at Vedanthangal a fortnight ago, and here's a link to his interesting and amusing trip report

Vedanthangal Bird Sanctuary, southern India. 04 Dec 2008

I have a personal jinx with that place.  I can count upto five opportunities over the last two years that I've had to visit, and have had to cancel in the last minute.

Its only worth visiting at this time of the year.   This is also the happening time for me in Madras, what with exams, kutcheris, NRI visitors, weddings, reunions ...and of course work deadlines.  Excuses, excuses, you say, and I have to agree.

Sigh!  Anyways, until I visit Charlie's report should more than suffice!

PS: There's another great post on Pond Herons as well from Charlie.  He describes the confusion between the flying white bird and the sitting brown bird rather well!!

Update:  Some photos from the MNS trip

Picasa Web Albums - Sharky - Vedanthangal Trip

Chance encounters

Spotted on the road at Neelangarai.
What could it be?
Preston to the rescue!

The critter you have is a painted grasshopper. You find them in large numbers at certain times of the year, feeding on the leaves of the giant milkweed plant (Calatropis sp.) They ingest the toxins of the plant which makes them distasteful to birds and their bright colours is to warn birds of this bad taste (and possible toxic nature of their tissues).

And pray, what may this be?!
I thought it was a Praying Mantis, though preying mantis may be more appropriate! (Well, the ladies get very excited and eat up the gents!)
This one was on our lift gate, how it came up there, I know not.

However, it is a mantis. but not a praying one. Its the wandering violin mantis, Gongylus gongylodes!!

My son first decided to take it to school and show his friends and teachers, releasing it into the gardens there. But when we put it inot a bottle, it panicked, and looked so uncomfortable, that he changed his mind.
Released it in our garden..he reports that it hopped out of the bottle in a great hurry!